23rd July
With a forecast of light SW breezes and rain worsening later, we got up at 0600, breakfasted and made ready, leaving at 0725. We motored south through a deserted Gardsfjarden in dry but dull weather. In Nynasviken we were overtaken by a bigger yacht and were happy to follow her through Dragets canal once again. As usual I had underestimated the time needed and we missed the 0900 opening of the Tottnas bridge. However we'd missed it handsomely and had only about 15 mins. wait in the rain for the1000 opening. At the appointed time a yellow jacket marched into view which covered a red headed lady who remotely lowered the road barriers as she approached the bridge. On the bridge she opened an equipment box and we heard bangs as latches were loosened and the bridge started to swing open. In the meantime a yacht on our side quit the mooring buoy, a second boat came up from behind and another yacht approaching from the south prepared to come through the wrong opening; all in all a situation was developing. We hung back a little, the opening bridge got very close to the approaching boat which finally realised its error and crossed over to the correct side in a hurry. We went through without problems, thanking the redhead for her work.
We were now headed directly into wind in the lead between Liso and Svardso and Kristin raised the main. We motored sw into clear water and thankfully the rain stopped.
Once out into Svardsfjarden we turned WNW and had a very pleasant little sail to Ramsholmen light.
Now Ramsholmen and Galklubb lights define the main shipping route up to Sodertalje so we looked around cautiously before crossing it into less travelled water, hardening up onto a westerly course.
At this point the rain returned and visibility correspondingly reduced. However the plotter was still operating and we made for the gap between Knytnaven and Aspskargrund buoys. ( I do love some of the buoy names). We could then make out the gap between Dofskar and its hallarna about two cables apart and then proceeded to a southerly cardinal named Naggen before joining the conventional route to Trosa, and went on to lower sails in calm water before going upriver to the harbour there. We found the harbour quite full and distinctly disconcerting. We had prepared for stern buoy moorings but found they had substituted box moorings during the winter. Box moorings are a line of piles about a boats length from the quay. You are expected to drop a bowline over each post as you enter the mooring. We, however, made for a gap between two other boats, secured the bow and then with help from a neighbour put a loop round one of the posts and later used a long boathook to drop a bowline over the other.
The harbour master seemed not to understand box moorings properly as he had equipped each post with a conventional loop as used on the quay itself. A wooden hook, to stop the loop falling down would have been far more useful.
We plugged into the electrical supply and yet again put up our plastic sheet to keep the rain away from cockpit and cabin. We were to stay for several days in Trosa avoiding or enduring a string of depressions.
Our friends Martin and Maria, by way of contras,t made a heroic passage through Myssingen in a series of tacks that lasted six hours. It is not something we like doing any more.
Another unwelcome change in Trosa was the disappearance of the fish shop and smokery from the shop arcade near the harbour. There is still a smoked fish stall about a mile and a half away next to a large ICA supermarket.
We ate out once at the open air restaurant beside the river. this had both good service and cooking but its coffee was deplorable. Nevertheless we would go back there. Fina fisken looked a bit boring last time we looked at the menu but it is right back on form and we ate there twice. My dish of half a large crab and a couple of giant crab legs, together with sauces, was excellent and so was Kristins shell fish platter with half a lobster, half a crab, giant crab leg, mussels and shrimps was at least as good, thoroughly recommended.
Wednesday, 5 August 2015
Sunday, 2 August 2015
20th-22nd July Sodertalje to Nynashamn
At Sodertalje we ate mostly on Badger as most of the restaurants looked poor or worse. we visited the Main church again to find it distinctly redeveloped and though expensively refurbished, some of the changes were for the worse. In particular, most of the grave slabs in front of the main altar have been removed and some have been put in inconspicuous places. We are incensed because two of the slabs are of considerable historic interest as they were for a man who was a barber and another a tanner. Neither trade would have entitled a man to a place next to the altar in the 17th.C in Sweden.
20th July
Rather late departure as we had to prepare the boat, stow the tant and El cable etc. We also decided to get more food and buy a new weather station which should be easier to fit at the masthead, so got away only at 1115 after having filled with water and diesel.
We motored south to Skansholmen and moored in sunlight at 1310. On the way we'd encountered various very fast moving motor boats with no manners who had rolled us dreadfully.
Skansholmen is an interesting place. It is now mainly a private caravan site and a marina with two restaurants, neither of which appealed. It does have fuel, water and electricity, none very conveniently and a shop which sells very little of interest. The caravan site was once a fort guarding the way into Lake Malaren but little remains for the untutored visitor. The stately homes in the are were destroyed in 1719 by the Russian wrath but were quickly rebuilt. The area is rich farmland.
21st July
Our purpose was to reach Nynashamn to meet up with Martin and Maria. Up at 0500 because we expected heavy rain in the afternoon. We motored south in very light SW breeze and took the opportunity to find out how best to tow the dinghy to minimise drag. We found that the boat's speed did not change whether we had the dinghy towing loop hooked directly to the stern cleat or out at the full length of the towing line or at intermediat distances. It is conceivable that an even longer line might be better but not very likely. In any case a very long towing line would be much more likely to cause problems both in harbour and at sea.
Note:- We later found when examining the dinghy, no damage from the exhaust gasses and light soot fouling only.
We made our way through the wriggles ( archipelago west of Nynashamn) with only one incident. We were lining up to go through Dragets canal and had checked that no mast was coming our way when suddenly a small motorboat appeared. We had to do a hasty 360 degree turn to avoid it and then went through, enjoying the scenery and overhanging trees.
We arrived in Nynashamn at 1115 and moored, putting the tent up at once because of rain threatening and went off to lunch at the smokery on the harbour quay. As expected, it was excellent.
We duly mad contact with Martin and Maria, neither of us immediately recognising each others boats and We had a delicious dinner with them on their boat in the evening.
We did not accompany them to Brunnsviken mainly because of the threat of a lot of unpleasant wether in the following few days. They had to make the journey because at Brunnsviken they knew an engineer whou could sort out a tricky problem with their masthead light.
For us it was the wrong way to go and we do not like Myssingen ( the big open stretch of water NE of Nynashamn ) in bad weather). It was a pity as we very much like their company.
22nd July
In indifferent weather we stayed in Nynashamn, buying food and doing a few chores. The weather looked reaonable for the 23rd so we made ready for a bolt to Trosa to sit out the next lot of bad weather soon to follow.
20th July
Rather late departure as we had to prepare the boat, stow the tant and El cable etc. We also decided to get more food and buy a new weather station which should be easier to fit at the masthead, so got away only at 1115 after having filled with water and diesel.
We motored south to Skansholmen and moored in sunlight at 1310. On the way we'd encountered various very fast moving motor boats with no manners who had rolled us dreadfully.
Skansholmen is an interesting place. It is now mainly a private caravan site and a marina with two restaurants, neither of which appealed. It does have fuel, water and electricity, none very conveniently and a shop which sells very little of interest. The caravan site was once a fort guarding the way into Lake Malaren but little remains for the untutored visitor. The stately homes in the are were destroyed in 1719 by the Russian wrath but were quickly rebuilt. The area is rich farmland.
21st July
Our purpose was to reach Nynashamn to meet up with Martin and Maria. Up at 0500 because we expected heavy rain in the afternoon. We motored south in very light SW breeze and took the opportunity to find out how best to tow the dinghy to minimise drag. We found that the boat's speed did not change whether we had the dinghy towing loop hooked directly to the stern cleat or out at the full length of the towing line or at intermediat distances. It is conceivable that an even longer line might be better but not very likely. In any case a very long towing line would be much more likely to cause problems both in harbour and at sea.
Note:- We later found when examining the dinghy, no damage from the exhaust gasses and light soot fouling only.
We made our way through the wriggles ( archipelago west of Nynashamn) with only one incident. We were lining up to go through Dragets canal and had checked that no mast was coming our way when suddenly a small motorboat appeared. We had to do a hasty 360 degree turn to avoid it and then went through, enjoying the scenery and overhanging trees.
We arrived in Nynashamn at 1115 and moored, putting the tent up at once because of rain threatening and went off to lunch at the smokery on the harbour quay. As expected, it was excellent.
We duly mad contact with Martin and Maria, neither of us immediately recognising each others boats and We had a delicious dinner with them on their boat in the evening.
We did not accompany them to Brunnsviken mainly because of the threat of a lot of unpleasant wether in the following few days. They had to make the journey because at Brunnsviken they knew an engineer whou could sort out a tricky problem with their masthead light.
For us it was the wrong way to go and we do not like Myssingen ( the big open stretch of water NE of Nynashamn ) in bad weather). It was a pity as we very much like their company.
22nd July
In indifferent weather we stayed in Nynashamn, buying food and doing a few chores. The weather looked reaonable for the 23rd so we made ready for a bolt to Trosa to sit out the next lot of bad weather soon to follow.
Sunday, 19 July 2015
16th to 19th July 2015 Stockholm to Sodertalje
Thursday 16th July
We were aware of thunderstorms approaching later in the day but had to delay our departure as I needed to get to a "3" store to get my broad-band subscription re-activated. I amanaged this by 1000, bought some strawberries in Hogtorget market and rushed back to Badger. We'd been uncertain about leaving becase of the forecast but decided to go to Lake Malaren anyway as this seemed to be a weather window. We had to disconnect the electrical lead, stow the bow ladder, pack away cockpit tent and say good bye to Leif and all the Wasahamnen crew. We did manage to leave by 1115 and made for Danviks bridge through the usual intense ferry traffic. Approaching the bridge we had two fast ferries to starboard and a third picking up passenges in a position that obstructed access to the bridge. However the bridge was signalling it was about to open so we crept along the starboard side of the channel, propelled only by a light easterly breeze. The bridge opened slowly and I needed it well open it hinges upwards from the starboard side. A great rush of ferries and motorboats poured past the bridge followed by masted boats in a great scrum, while w had to move to port into their paths to avoid the bridge. We survived this, just and prceeded toward Hammarby lock. On the way are some superb blocks of flats in one of which lives Our friend Helena and her husband so we gave a wave and then turned to look at the moored boats we were passing.
There are tug, old ferries and even a small cargo ship turned into house boats and they look comfortable - at least in summer. There is also a big Viking ship, now turned into a Thai restaurant; an unlikely alliance I feel.
The Hammarby lock opened quite quickly and we were soon through and proceeding through odd outer suburbs. On one side was a fine hospital overlooking amenity gardens (allotments) with little huts. On the other was a rocky forest. More modern flats followed and a bridge or two and then a bathing house. Its surprising it still exists. Next comes a cement factory and more housing.
By now I was getting worried by our low motoring speed. We were going directly into a westerly breeze though. Kristin found the towing load of the dinghy was immense,but it was some time before the penny dropped. We had had a lot of rain in Stockholm so the dinghy had a lot of water. I stopped in a "clear" part of Malaren so of course various work boats appeared and headed for us. I managed to get the dink alongside and hook out the bung in the stern. We then resumed motoring and the speed increased as the dinghy drained itself. Speed was still lower than I would like and I have to experiment by towing on longer lines. Yes long lines make for nasty situations when one has to reverse unexpectedly.
We motored westwards through Lake Malaren with little incident except that the breeze slowly strengthened against us and and lightning flickered to the south.
The crisis came as we emerged from the last narrow passage into the big stretch of open water leading down to Sodertalje. By now lightning was visible from the tail of a cloud dead ahead and a large purply black cloud extended north and east of us with heavy rain underneath.
Suddenly a westerly squall hit slowing us down severely. It got quite dark and small cresting waves were everywhere. I considered turning back but Badger was plodding slowly on; about 2 kts. over the ground.
Morover we were not being rained on. We plodded on and Badger' speed gradually rose. In a little while we were able to turn a little to the south and speed increased more. After about half an hour in all the squall had ceased, the sun had come out again and the sea had become lumpy and uncomfortable. However were soon in some shelter from the hills to the west and our problems were over.
We motored south through natural channel and canal sections till we reached the lock, locked through and found a berth in the Sodertalje marina.
We have stayed here because heavy rain and moderately high winds against us make it no fun to go on.
Our present plan is to leave on Tuesday, making for Naynashamn and then on to Brunnsviken on Orno to meet with Martin and Maria Morris
We were aware of thunderstorms approaching later in the day but had to delay our departure as I needed to get to a "3" store to get my broad-band subscription re-activated. I amanaged this by 1000, bought some strawberries in Hogtorget market and rushed back to Badger. We'd been uncertain about leaving becase of the forecast but decided to go to Lake Malaren anyway as this seemed to be a weather window. We had to disconnect the electrical lead, stow the bow ladder, pack away cockpit tent and say good bye to Leif and all the Wasahamnen crew. We did manage to leave by 1115 and made for Danviks bridge through the usual intense ferry traffic. Approaching the bridge we had two fast ferries to starboard and a third picking up passenges in a position that obstructed access to the bridge. However the bridge was signalling it was about to open so we crept along the starboard side of the channel, propelled only by a light easterly breeze. The bridge opened slowly and I needed it well open it hinges upwards from the starboard side. A great rush of ferries and motorboats poured past the bridge followed by masted boats in a great scrum, while w had to move to port into their paths to avoid the bridge. We survived this, just and prceeded toward Hammarby lock. On the way are some superb blocks of flats in one of which lives Our friend Helena and her husband so we gave a wave and then turned to look at the moored boats we were passing.
There are tug, old ferries and even a small cargo ship turned into house boats and they look comfortable - at least in summer. There is also a big Viking ship, now turned into a Thai restaurant; an unlikely alliance I feel.
The Hammarby lock opened quite quickly and we were soon through and proceeding through odd outer suburbs. On one side was a fine hospital overlooking amenity gardens (allotments) with little huts. On the other was a rocky forest. More modern flats followed and a bridge or two and then a bathing house. Its surprising it still exists. Next comes a cement factory and more housing.
By now I was getting worried by our low motoring speed. We were going directly into a westerly breeze though. Kristin found the towing load of the dinghy was immense,but it was some time before the penny dropped. We had had a lot of rain in Stockholm so the dinghy had a lot of water. I stopped in a "clear" part of Malaren so of course various work boats appeared and headed for us. I managed to get the dink alongside and hook out the bung in the stern. We then resumed motoring and the speed increased as the dinghy drained itself. Speed was still lower than I would like and I have to experiment by towing on longer lines. Yes long lines make for nasty situations when one has to reverse unexpectedly.
We motored westwards through Lake Malaren with little incident except that the breeze slowly strengthened against us and and lightning flickered to the south.
The crisis came as we emerged from the last narrow passage into the big stretch of open water leading down to Sodertalje. By now lightning was visible from the tail of a cloud dead ahead and a large purply black cloud extended north and east of us with heavy rain underneath.
Suddenly a westerly squall hit slowing us down severely. It got quite dark and small cresting waves were everywhere. I considered turning back but Badger was plodding slowly on; about 2 kts. over the ground.
Morover we were not being rained on. We plodded on and Badger' speed gradually rose. In a little while we were able to turn a little to the south and speed increased more. After about half an hour in all the squall had ceased, the sun had come out again and the sea had become lumpy and uncomfortable. However were soon in some shelter from the hills to the west and our problems were over.
We motored south through natural channel and canal sections till we reached the lock, locked through and found a berth in the Sodertalje marina.
We have stayed here because heavy rain and moderately high winds against us make it no fun to go on.
Our present plan is to leave on Tuesday, making for Naynashamn and then on to Brunnsviken on Orno to meet with Martin and Maria Morris
8th to 15th July 2015 Stockholm
We stayed in Wasahamnen, Stockholm for more than a week, partly because of strongish winds but mainly because we like Stockholm, its museums, restaurants and so on. We revisited Waldermarsudde and enjoyed two of the artists having special exhibitions there and also visited Skansen open air museum, mainly to see the Nordic animals. Between us we saw an Eagle Owl ( yes they have one in Totnes I know), wolves, brown bears, a lynx, elk and wolverines. The zoo now has a good collection of young wolverines, very active and interesting, and obviously superb fur.
We made plans to leave early on 16th July but were foiled when my broad-band subscription ran out in the evening of the 15th and I could not work out how to enter the required code number to reactivate it. I also knew from previous experience that after 20 mins. trying I would get fairly permanently cut off.
We made plans to leave early on 16th July but were foiled when my broad-band subscription ran out in the evening of the 15th and I could not work out how to enter the required code number to reactivate it. I also knew from previous experience that after 20 mins. trying I would get fairly permanently cut off.
Sunday, 12 July 2015
6-8th July 2015 Paradiset to Ingmarso and Stockholm
The forecast on 6th was for high winds and rain so we made for Ingmarso, which was crowded and took one of the outer berths. This was not very desirable but the alternative was approached down a narrowing wedge of water and the departure would have been difficult and possibly embarrassing. We duly got rain and wind, right on the stern. We then had the difficult job of keeping Badger's bow just off the pontoon so allowing us to get ashore while attached by a tape to a buoy. The tape inevitably stretched during the gusts and we found our newly acquired bow fender useful in avoiding damage to Badger's very fine bow. We did manage to get showers, have meals at the good restaurant with Paul and Marylin of Starship Sirius and to walk a little on the beautiful tracks on the island.
Late on the 7th we reckoned we had found a small weather window the following morning so planned for a very early departure.
8th July
Up at 0400 and away at 0430. We had offered to say good bye to Paul and Marylin when we left but they merely shuddered. The weather was calm but drizzly, basically half right. We motored off into simply lovely waters and the rain stopped. We made good progress west to the north of Gallno and from there were on familiar territory with virtually no other boats moving. In the very open stretches NE of Vaxholm the light was good if gray and the scenes were very beautiful indeed.
However at Vaxholm itself the rain began again, visbility dropped abruptly and we began to seevery large ferries on the approach to Stockholm. The latter part of the trip was a matter of keeping going, trying to keep dry and watching fore and aft for big ships, two of which passed close by us on their way in to Stockholm. We arrived at 0949 after a trip of 27 miles and found a berth at Wasahamnen.
We plugged into shore power before all the sockets were taken, put up our plastic cover so the cockpit and our clothing could dry out and relaxed.
During the morning and afternoon, more and more boats arrived at a very full harbour, moved up and down the channels between the moored boats and pushed off again. Yet again we had gained by getting up early.
Late on the 7th we reckoned we had found a small weather window the following morning so planned for a very early departure.
8th July
Up at 0400 and away at 0430. We had offered to say good bye to Paul and Marylin when we left but they merely shuddered. The weather was calm but drizzly, basically half right. We motored off into simply lovely waters and the rain stopped. We made good progress west to the north of Gallno and from there were on familiar territory with virtually no other boats moving. In the very open stretches NE of Vaxholm the light was good if gray and the scenes were very beautiful indeed.
However at Vaxholm itself the rain began again, visbility dropped abruptly and we began to seevery large ferries on the approach to Stockholm. The latter part of the trip was a matter of keeping going, trying to keep dry and watching fore and aft for big ships, two of which passed close by us on their way in to Stockholm. We arrived at 0949 after a trip of 27 miles and found a berth at Wasahamnen.
We plugged into shore power before all the sockets were taken, put up our plastic cover so the cockpit and our clothing could dry out and relaxed.
During the morning and afternoon, more and more boats arrived at a very full harbour, moved up and down the channels between the moored boats and pushed off again. Yet again we had gained by getting up early.
Saturday, 11 July 2015
Hogmarso, Blido Paradiset
Leaving Norrtalje early we had a following breeze but a large veer was expected after a few hours. We failed to sail in almost no wind so motored to Graddo by which time the wind had turned and we could comfortably sail on the jib. We were going well as we approached the ferry terminal at Kapellskar but slightly concerned that the Viking Line ferry at the dock was making smoke, and at just the wrong moment it started to move. While concentrating on this ferry a second one, a DFDS one called Liverpool somthing, appeared coming into the dock. After contemplating making a run for it I lost my bottle, started the engine and turned away. We eventually got past Kapellskar and started down the main shipping track towards Furusund. We were again saling pleasantly when we were passed by Mariella, another Viking ferry moving very quickly with a great deal of water spouting forward above her bulbous bow. The wake she made was prodigous and rolled us very badly. She was clearly moving at more than the speed limit of twelve knots. Rather wounded by this we limped into Furusund for the night while Kristin managed to buy some veg at the poor supermarket there.
Next morning we moved to Hogmarso for the night and enjoyed dinner at the restaurant.
Monday 6th July
We decided to move to Blido guest harbour as the island had long interested me. We motored round and stopped at 59N38.2, 18E55.3. The harbour uses stern buys, has neither electriciyt nor water on the pontoon and the toilet block is some distance away. We had a rather poor lunch at the Vardhus, which has a surprisingly good wine list, perhaps a remnant of better times. There was no information available about the island and the road looked unappealing. Blido has many summer homes for the rich so maybe the poor facilities are deliberate.
We departed south to Finhamn Paradiset in bright sun with a following breeze and had a simply lovely sail. We used the jib only getting 4 - 6 kts. and enjoyed the scattered islands and the good marking of the wriggly channel. The chart indicates that information of the regions either side of the channel are not particularly well surveyed but he islands there look enticing. We arrived to find the Paradiset anchorage crowded but anchored happily at 59N28.73, 18E48.58 in about 5 metres of water.
Paradiset is always quiet even when crowded and the surrounding shores are lovely. The Skaergard Stiftelsen have provided many dry toilets and these are well maintained. We made one journey ashore to walk to the shop enjoying as always the woods and pastures along the way. We saw no deer this time. We stayed two nights largely in sunshine and relaxed.
Next morning we moved to Hogmarso for the night and enjoyed dinner at the restaurant.
Monday 6th July
We decided to move to Blido guest harbour as the island had long interested me. We motored round and stopped at 59N38.2, 18E55.3. The harbour uses stern buys, has neither electriciyt nor water on the pontoon and the toilet block is some distance away. We had a rather poor lunch at the Vardhus, which has a surprisingly good wine list, perhaps a remnant of better times. There was no information available about the island and the road looked unappealing. Blido has many summer homes for the rich so maybe the poor facilities are deliberate.
We departed south to Finhamn Paradiset in bright sun with a following breeze and had a simply lovely sail. We used the jib only getting 4 - 6 kts. and enjoyed the scattered islands and the good marking of the wriggly channel. The chart indicates that information of the regions either side of the channel are not particularly well surveyed but he islands there look enticing. We arrived to find the Paradiset anchorage crowded but anchored happily at 59N28.73, 18E48.58 in about 5 metres of water.
Paradiset is always quiet even when crowded and the surrounding shores are lovely. The Skaergard Stiftelsen have provided many dry toilets and these are well maintained. We made one journey ashore to walk to the shop enjoying as always the woods and pastures along the way. We saw no deer this time. We stayed two nights largely in sunshine and relaxed.
4th July 2015 Hogmarso to Norrtalje.
We needed to visit Norrtalje for medical reasons so set off early motor sailing with light SW breeze to Revnas but an opposing breeze in the Norrtalje funnel. I made for the Vard Centrale which had treated me for Erysepalos ( sic) three years ago as one of the antibiotics used had not only cured the disease it was treating but also seems to have more or less cured the skin problem on my legs that has troubled me for at least forty years.After the customary waits and struggles with the bureaucracy I was allowed to see a very competent nurse who gave the details of the drug used. This will be of considerable help to my skin specialist. It also confirms the view of my GP that many cases of skin problems in infants can be cured by antibiotics.The weather at this point was extremely hot so walking a couple of miles to the surgery was tiring. Kristin had a considerable problem getting routine blood tests here. The system has changed since last year and nobody at the Vard Cantrale she attended had any idea what to do. After shuttling between hospital A & E, blood test centre and Vard Centrale Kristin eventually got the required tests.but only after seeing a doctor. In all the process took more tan two hours of which five minutes were spent taking the blood. We found Norrtalje itself as pleasant as ever. The marina is no better protected from Easterly storms than before and there are insufficient toilets. It is run by ProMarina - of course.
We left after two days for Hogmarso.
We left after two days for Hogmarso.
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