Sunday 19 July 2015

16th to 19th July 2015 Stockholm to Sodertalje

Thursday 16th July
We were aware of thunderstorms approaching later in the day but had to delay our departure as I needed to get to a "3" store to get my broad-band subscription re-activated. I amanaged this by 1000, bought some strawberries in Hogtorget market and rushed back to Badger. We'd been uncertain about leaving becase of the forecast but decided to go to Lake Malaren anyway as this seemed to be a weather window. We had to disconnect the electrical lead, stow the bow ladder, pack away cockpit tent and say good bye to Leif and all the Wasahamnen crew. We did manage to leave by 1115 and made for Danviks bridge through the usual intense ferry traffic. Approaching the bridge we had two fast ferries to starboard and a third picking up passenges in a position that obstructed access to the bridge. However the bridge was signalling it was about to open so we crept along the starboard side of the channel, propelled only by a light easterly breeze. The bridge opened slowly and I needed it well open it hinges upwards from the starboard side. A great rush of ferries and motorboats poured past the bridge followed by masted boats in a great scrum, while w had to move to port into their paths to avoid the bridge. We survived this, just and prceeded toward Hammarby lock. On the way are some superb blocks of flats in one of which lives Our friend Helena and her husband so we gave a wave and then turned to look at the moored boats we were passing.
There are tug, old ferries and even a small cargo ship turned into house boats and they look comfortable - at least in summer. There is also a big Viking ship, now turned into a Thai restaurant; an unlikely alliance I feel.
The Hammarby lock opened quite quickly and we were soon through and proceeding through odd outer suburbs. On one side was a fine hospital overlooking amenity gardens (allotments) with little huts. On the other was a rocky forest. More modern flats followed and a bridge or two and then a bathing house. Its surprising it still exists. Next comes a cement factory and more housing.
By now I was getting worried by our low motoring speed. We were going directly into a westerly breeze though. Kristin found the towing load of the dinghy was immense,but it was some time before the penny dropped. We had had a lot of rain in Stockholm so the dinghy had a lot of water. I stopped in a "clear" part of  Malaren  so of course various work boats appeared and headed for us. I managed to get the  dink alongside and hook out the bung in the stern. We then resumed motoring and the speed increased as the dinghy drained itself. Speed was still lower than I would like and I have to experiment by towing on longer lines. Yes long lines make for nasty situations when one has to reverse unexpectedly.
We motored westwards through Lake Malaren with little incident except that the breeze slowly strengthened against us and and lightning flickered to the south.
The crisis came as we emerged from the last narrow passage into the big stretch of open water leading down to Sodertalje. By now lightning was visible from the tail of a cloud dead ahead and a large purply black cloud extended north and east of us with heavy rain underneath.
Suddenly a westerly squall hit  slowing us down severely. It got quite dark and small cresting waves were everywhere. I considered turning back but Badger was plodding slowly on; about 2 kts. over the ground.
Morover we were not being rained on. We plodded on and Badger' speed gradually rose. In a little while we were able to turn a little to the south and speed increased more. After about half an hour in all the squall had ceased, the sun had come out again and the sea had become lumpy and uncomfortable. However were soon in some shelter from the hills to the west and our problems were over.
We motored south through natural channel and canal sections till we reached the lock, locked through and found a berth in the Sodertalje marina.
We have stayed here because heavy rain and moderately high winds against us make it no fun to go on.
Our present plan is to leave on Tuesday, making for Naynashamn and then on to Brunnsviken on Orno to meet with Martin and Maria Morris

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