We did not plan this day's trip very well being a bit uncertain of our aims. We got up quite early and were away by 0745 but had a longish trip through the Nynashamn archipelago before getting to the exit bridge which opens on the hour. We made our cautious way through Dragets canal in lovely cool conditions though the sun was already hot and made a conservative speed through the rest of the wriggles loving the scenery and the coolish air.
However we arrived just too late for the 9am opening and had to moor to the waiting buoy till 1000. This was not a hardship in itself but most motor boats do not get going early so we were wasting valuable wash free time. By 1000 there was more traffic and sailing became steadily more difficult. We did have a pleasant sail northwest, southwest and west across to Bokosund but were constantly passed by motor boats. Here we had to motor as the wind was going southerly and had a fairly lumpy time in the open water before Savosundet. By now large fast and heavy motor boats were passing at speed making really dreadful wakes. We should have been at our destination by this time. Regrettably we had by then decided to make for Broken and a spot of civilisation in the shape of good toilets and shower plus an island to walk on. By the end we had done 33 miles and we were pretty tired and very thankful to have arrived. The harbour was crowded but we managed to insert ourselves,moor up with stern anchor and put up the sunshade.
We did have nice freshly smoked fish from Nynashamn together with white wine so life soon looked up.
Regrettably the harbour had algae and so did other places round the islands. I went off to check for possible bathing sites but failed but cooled of with a shower in the new and very well appointed sauna hut.
We will stay in Broken for a few days while the hot weather lasts ( and our food). The HM bakes rolls every morning and will smoke shrimps to order so we won't starve for a while.
I'm writing this, sitting at a comfortable table in the clubhouse looking out into the tree canopy and glimpsing the waters around the island. It is getting time for lunch with smoked salmon and nice fresh rolls. It's a hard life etc.
Monday 28 July 2014
Fjardlang to Sagviken 25th July
By now we were beginning to run short of water, fuel and fresh food so needed to resupply. Hence our decision to go to Nynashamn. There was also a slight potential problem of low water levels. The high atmospheric pressure had been pushing down levels for some time.
While raising the anchor which Kristin does, I was using the new deckwash system to clean the chain which it did very well. Unfortunately ///i turned it off before I lifted the anchor aboard so Kristin could not use it on the ancor. The first part of the trip, Fjardlang to The open stretch of Myssingen was very lovely and intricate but still troubled by the algal blooms. These persisted and worsened on Myssingen itself. We chugged into Nynashamn around 1300, got to the fuel pontoon and filled up with 66 litres of diesel - yes we had been doing a lot of motoring. Incidentally we took this diesel from the pump labelled "utan RME" in other words without the new bio diesel components. This fuel is more expensive but less likely to give diesel bug problems. We moved to the guest harbour and found a berth easily, filled with water and operated separately ashore. I bought milk, lime juice and fil ( sour milk for breakfast cereals) while Kristin brought fish, veg and fruit.
Once back on board we felt we could not stand the harbour at all with heat, noise and crowds so left at once for the archipelago to the west. After the narrow entrance we turned South into Sagviken which is a large north facing bay on Jarflotta. We anchored at 58N50.136, 17E54.004.
We had a calm and not too hot night though we both slept without any covering.
When leaving the next morning we used the deckwash system again, but this time left it for Kristin to use while Iwent back to the tiller. It washed off the mud very easily but Idon't know if it will cope with clay.
While raising the anchor which Kristin does, I was using the new deckwash system to clean the chain which it did very well. Unfortunately ///i turned it off before I lifted the anchor aboard so Kristin could not use it on the ancor. The first part of the trip, Fjardlang to The open stretch of Myssingen was very lovely and intricate but still troubled by the algal blooms. These persisted and worsened on Myssingen itself. We chugged into Nynashamn around 1300, got to the fuel pontoon and filled up with 66 litres of diesel - yes we had been doing a lot of motoring. Incidentally we took this diesel from the pump labelled "utan RME" in other words without the new bio diesel components. This fuel is more expensive but less likely to give diesel bug problems. We moved to the guest harbour and found a berth easily, filled with water and operated separately ashore. I bought milk, lime juice and fil ( sour milk for breakfast cereals) while Kristin brought fish, veg and fruit.
Once back on board we felt we could not stand the harbour at all with heat, noise and crowds so left at once for the archipelago to the west. After the narrow entrance we turned South into Sagviken which is a large north facing bay on Jarflotta. We anchored at 58N50.136, 17E54.004.
We had a calm and not too hot night though we both slept without any covering.
When leaving the next morning we used the deckwash system again, but this time left it for Kristin to use while Iwent back to the tiller. It washed off the mud very easily but Idon't know if it will cope with clay.
Malma Kvarn to Fjardlang 24th July
It was time to leave Malma; we'd eaten the menu so we set off early in the morning. Leaving was not the easiest trick as the harbour was crowded. We pulled back on the stern tape mooring us to the buoy released the hook but had a problem with the dinghy hitting another buoy but emerged from that to find it not very easy to turn so went out backwards for maybe 150 metres to open water where we could tidy up the warps, put away fenders, reel up the stern tape etc. Once out of the immediate inlet we were in open water going SW with a very gentle following breeze and hot sun. This was the first day we saw the algal blooms that are now covering much of the Baltic. Other sailors have recently reported sailing 30 miles through solid algal bloom. In our case it was maily long thin streaks of well defined yellow brown opaque algae with occasional large patches. It is dangerous to swallow the stuff so swimming becomes pretty impossible. We made our way slowly down to Fjardlanf anchoring at midday in position 59N02.99, 18E31.27. The entry is rather less easy than it appears on Google earth for there are a number of rocks in the "throat" half way down. What is worse the rocks are positioned differently on the Swedish charts whether chip or paper and in the Nautiska guide book chartlet. We relied on the latter and did not hit anything. As it was hot we swam and sheltered from the sun. Luckily the alage had not penetrated into the inlet. We were well provided with dry toilets with at least three within fairly easy reach. It was another lovely spot.
Malma Kvarn Again
After all the Art we had a quieter weekend in Stockholm. We did the usual boaty things, filling up with water, diesel and parts for making a deckwash system. We also bought lovely food from Sabis on Sunday . This was a mistake as we'd forgotten that Systembolaget liquor store was shut. We also had an OK but not great dinner in Hasslebacken - great looking place and good garden, food good in parts.
Our plans to leave early on Monday were scuppered by the need for a quick bolt to Systembolaget for more red wine so we actually left at 1100.
By this time the fast ferries and the motoer boatswere zooming about Stockholm Harbour with all the horribly disturbed water that implies. However by the tie we got to Baggenstaket 59N18.15, 18E17 the worst was over but we were very glad we'd encountered a very large local work boat a little earlier in the trip rather than in the canal. With a light SE wind we had little success in sailing and reaced our destination, Tyreso Slott at 1600, rather hot and bothered by the intense heat. Tyreso Slott is a very small guest harbour at 59N13.9,18E18.8. It is reached up a very long inlet which has large numbers of holiday homes but a pleasant place to visit. Just beyond the harbour is a very pleasant pool for anchoring. The toilets/ showers are good and a cafe operates until about 1700.
The main purpose of our vist was to look at the Slott ( or palace) because Prince Egen of ValdermarsUdde fame used to assemble a party of artists there for several years to paint in the grounds and enjoy an informal summer existence. The park is lovely with large numbers of mature trees but access to the Slott is difficult except at weekends requiring prior booking so we could not enter. We spent a pleasant time there wnd the set off for Malma Kvarn not far away.
On the way we passed close by Sma Dalaro again and a second vast plastic shed on a neighbouring island caused me some some navigational anxiety. We had seen the first one on our earlier visit to Sma Dalaro and found it difficu;t to accept that a secod monstrosity was being built nearby. The anxiety then turned t anger at the way overdevelopment is ruining so much of the ineere Stockholm archipelago.
We arrived early but hot at Malma Kvarn, put up our sunshade and eventually ade our way up to the lake behind to swim. Regrettably I forgot to take a thermometer but the water was unbelievably warm - at least 26C and we had a lovely wallow but the water had dried before we got back tot he boat. While the harbour is attractive, the lake is beautiful, with rocky sloping shores and surrounding pine and birch trees,
We spent two nights in Malma, eating at the restaurant bot evenings when the temperature had reduced a little and finally saying goodbye to two very bright young people, computer graduates, Rassmus and Amanda who were working at the restaurant but who will be off to more serious work next year.
Our plans to leave early on Monday were scuppered by the need for a quick bolt to Systembolaget for more red wine so we actually left at 1100.
By this time the fast ferries and the motoer boatswere zooming about Stockholm Harbour with all the horribly disturbed water that implies. However by the tie we got to Baggenstaket 59N18.15, 18E17 the worst was over but we were very glad we'd encountered a very large local work boat a little earlier in the trip rather than in the canal. With a light SE wind we had little success in sailing and reaced our destination, Tyreso Slott at 1600, rather hot and bothered by the intense heat. Tyreso Slott is a very small guest harbour at 59N13.9,18E18.8. It is reached up a very long inlet which has large numbers of holiday homes but a pleasant place to visit. Just beyond the harbour is a very pleasant pool for anchoring. The toilets/ showers are good and a cafe operates until about 1700.
The main purpose of our vist was to look at the Slott ( or palace) because Prince Egen of ValdermarsUdde fame used to assemble a party of artists there for several years to paint in the grounds and enjoy an informal summer existence. The park is lovely with large numbers of mature trees but access to the Slott is difficult except at weekends requiring prior booking so we could not enter. We spent a pleasant time there wnd the set off for Malma Kvarn not far away.
On the way we passed close by Sma Dalaro again and a second vast plastic shed on a neighbouring island caused me some some navigational anxiety. We had seen the first one on our earlier visit to Sma Dalaro and found it difficu;t to accept that a secod monstrosity was being built nearby. The anxiety then turned t anger at the way overdevelopment is ruining so much of the ineere Stockholm archipelago.
We arrived early but hot at Malma Kvarn, put up our sunshade and eventually ade our way up to the lake behind to swim. Regrettably I forgot to take a thermometer but the water was unbelievably warm - at least 26C and we had a lovely wallow but the water had dried before we got back tot he boat. While the harbour is attractive, the lake is beautiful, with rocky sloping shores and surrounding pine and birch trees,
We spent two nights in Malma, eating at the restaurant bot evenings when the temperature had reduced a little and finally saying goodbye to two very bright young people, computer graduates, Rassmus and Amanda who were working at the restaurant but who will be off to more serious work next year.
Wednesday 23 July 2014
Stockholm - the fun stuff.
Stockholm is a great place to visit and we enjoy ourselves each time. The harbour staff are very friendly and treat us as pets and Leif the harbour master is a good friend. We ate at the BlaPorten restaurant in the garden of th eHallwylska Gallery very enjoyably and introduced others to it. We also much enjoyed the exhibition at the gallery. The current one is called Crafts which is a very inadequate description. On room had only one exhibit; a vast waterfall of 500Kg. of blue denim (old trousers, cut up and sewn). It was about 6 metres high. Another room had a large number of ceramic fantasy animals, all painted in bright colours. Less interesting was a display of various sized cake tins with pattern decoration which turned out to be ceramics - very thin ceramics. The Hallwyska specialised in wierd but enjoyable exhibitions. We also visited the Thielska ( much rehanging, a new restaurant and a requirement to wear overshoes) and Valdemars Udde where there was a fresh exhibition of parts of the collection - always enjoyable.
In Gamla Stan we discoved a new restaurant "The Hairy Pig Deli" run by and anglo swedish couple where the man specialises in making very good sausages. We spent a week ther but in the end felt we needed to leave and get back into the archipelago again.
In Gamla Stan we discoved a new restaurant "The Hairy Pig Deli" run by and anglo swedish couple where the man specialises in making very good sausages. We spent a week ther but in the end felt we needed to leave and get back into the archipelago again.
Stockholm Again
After two days in Gallno were beginning to run out of clean clothes and interesting food so had to go into Stockholm again. This meant getting up early so as to make the 25 mile journey by 1100 at the latest. In fact we left at 0525 having had breakfast. nd motored off, worrying somewhat about the engine's tendency to overheat when pressed hard. Against headwinds we could make barely 4.5 kts. which was becoming worrying. Nevertheless the rout into Stockholm is full of interesting with splendid Victorian and Edwardian mansions to admire and also the intricacy of the shipping route. While approaching Vaxholm we watched two big ferries successively make 130 degree turns at the same point on their rout into or out of Stockholm. They both took these turns very carefully and slowly - not very surprising as the shores are very solid rock.
Once through Vaxholm we encountered the morning shipping convoy into the port areas and were passed by at least three huge ferries which make very little wake unlike the very fast passenger ferries which cut the water up incessantly. We arrived at 1030 and foound to outr great relief a perfectly good berth immediately.
I now had to start dismantling the engine to try to cure the overheating; taking apart the raw water inlet filter, the heat exchanger ( which involves unshipping the alternator) and the raw water pump impeller. The only possible problem appeared to be that the pump impeller was rather too flexible. I replaced it with a new one. I also found a nut missing from one of the alternator support bolts. This was very anoying as it was a metric fine nut , not easily replaceable. I had to make a replacement out of studding; finding in the process that it is not possible to tighten two stiffnuts on the same shaft without access to the shaft itself.
I checked the engine which seemed Ok and we were then free to do more interesting things which was why we were in Stockholm in the first place. In the meantime Kristin did a major wash and looked after me in the heat.
Once through Vaxholm we encountered the morning shipping convoy into the port areas and were passed by at least three huge ferries which make very little wake unlike the very fast passenger ferries which cut the water up incessantly. We arrived at 1030 and foound to outr great relief a perfectly good berth immediately.
I now had to start dismantling the engine to try to cure the overheating; taking apart the raw water inlet filter, the heat exchanger ( which involves unshipping the alternator) and the raw water pump impeller. The only possible problem appeared to be that the pump impeller was rather too flexible. I replaced it with a new one. I also found a nut missing from one of the alternator support bolts. This was very anoying as it was a metric fine nut , not easily replaceable. I had to make a replacement out of studding; finding in the process that it is not possible to tighten two stiffnuts on the same shaft without access to the shaft itself.
I checked the engine which seemed Ok and we were then free to do more interesting things which was why we were in Stockholm in the first place. In the meantime Kristin did a major wash and looked after me in the heat.
Siafortet to Gallno
We had a difficult time extricating ourselves from Siafortet because we had a gusty easterly wind blowing along the line of the harbour. We waited till our neighbours had left and then pulled back on the tape securing us to the buoy. Badger immediately turned donind so that at one point the tape was at rightangles to the buoy. It was very difficult to pull in in a sudden gust and Badger's bow only just cleared the stern of the next but one boat. I had a desperate struggle to get the stern up to the buoy and another struggle to unhook the boathook. I also had to untangle my feet from the tape to get the boat motoring away from the mooring. After that it got easier. We put up the jibe and motored off down the main highway for a while watching for passing liners before turning Sout past Linanas with the wind slowly heading us. We had a glorous sail, perhaps the best this year, getting 6 kts. from time to time and passing bigger boats. By now we were sailing along the west side of Sodra Ljustero and heading for a small gap between it and Grinda at 59N25.3, 18E33.3. At this point we were headed and reverted to engine to wriggle our way by degrees to our preferred anchorage at 59N24.25,18E38.8. We lay here for a couple of days enjoying hot weather and swimming. We also wandered into the settlement through forest and pasture. I was made very angry by bits of police tape saying keep out that were hanging from branches along the route and so removed them. In the settlement i was told that there was a fun race round the island starting soon and the tape was for that purpose - so I had to walk back and replace it. At the settlement we bought food and had a pleasant lunch before returning to Badger.
Sunday 13 July 2014
Visit to Siafortet
Siafortet is part of an island originally named Kirkogard (churchyard) and was originally used as a sailors burial ground. In about 1920 a vast fortress was excavated and capped with concrete shaped to look like the natural contours of the land. It was anelaborate installation with a garrison of 250 men in peacetime but double that when at war. Bizarrely it was equipped with two late nineteenth C. rifled guns of 15 cm. bore which were worn and could not fire accurately. The fort included armoured observation turrets and a plotting room. It was never used and eventually abandoned and is a museum.
The island is very much a visitor destination with youth hostel with OK restaurant, bathing beaches and lovely views along the waterway. Morning and evening convoys of ferries and liners pass by offering entertainment. The harbour on the south side of the island is reasonably well shelered but strong east or west winds can be a trial. It will hold a maxumum of fifteen boats.Electricity is available at the harbour but not water.
View of boat harbour and of gun and its view up the fjord.
Our visit to Siafrtet was for one day only. We arrived there after a short sail down the main sea route into Stockholm and were impressed with the pleasant restaurant cold table lunch and the facilities generally.
The island is very much a visitor destination with youth hostel with OK restaurant, bathing beaches and lovely views along the waterway. Morning and evening convoys of ferries and liners pass by offering entertainment. The harbour on the south side of the island is reasonably well shelered but strong east or west winds can be a trial. It will hold a maxumum of fifteen boats.Electricity is available at the harbour but not water.
Our visit to Siafrtet was for one day only. We arrived there after a short sail down the main sea route into Stockholm and were impressed with the pleasant restaurant cold table lunch and the facilities generally.
Hogmarso Exhibit
The most extrordinary thing we have ever seen at Hogmarso is this gigamtic floating Chinese Restaurant, complete with Dragon head and tail. It is apparently parked here by a Chinese business man. The Dragon mouth is ;large enough for a small dinner party. The restaurant is mounted on a very large steel barge
Thursday 10 July 2014
Paradiset to Hogmarso
We left Finnhamn/Paradiset mainly because of water anxiety. We had last filled up at Nynashamn, some time ago. We left motoring north along a distinct much used but fairly twisty route with a modest north easterly so yet againe we envied those drifting in the opposite direction, down wind and bare chested. We expected to call in at Blido, a place we had always wanted to visit. One of the leading lights there is the famous opera singer Barbara Hendricks , who organises privatish music festivals in summer. On the way into the marina we met a boat coming out who said it was a bad harbour and we should not use the showers. The marine info we had said it could supply water but there was no evidence for that on the pontoons. With all these negatives we decided to go on and in fact we stopped for the night at Furusund where we could get water, electricity and showers. We als managed to get a side to mooring which was a nice change. Furusunfd is a Promarina harbour and expensive. It also has new pontoons but has substituted selling clothes from providing rather nice lunches. The evning brought the usual convoy of ferries and liners out of Stockholm which provided a great spectacle at very close quarters. They also made Badger pitch considerably but this was better than the yachts nearby which rolled horribly. There is no Promarina harbour that gets it right. Many are unsafe or uncomfortable though I do accept that they have good showers. We managed to buy some veg. but the only shop has little else worth eating. However the suroundings are very pretty.
We had a worrying encounter with a very brave Finnish lady of about 45 -50 who was using with great difficulty a rollator ( sort of push along seat with brakes) to get along the pontoon. It appears she had had a bad attack of Lyme disease which had affected her back ( spinal cord?) and so had very little control of her legs. Her retraining was slow but continuing. I had not realised this was one of the dangers attending Lyme disease and Kristin and I have both had attacks of the disease.
we moved off the next day to Hogmarso - a journey of less than three miles.
Hogmarso provides free, fendered moorings but no services at all, no water, electricity, toilets, showers. There are toilets when the restaurant is open though. The local supermarket remains good but the restaurant quality has gone down. The staff are concentrating more on the music that they provide. We left because a Rock concert was to be perpatrated the next evening. The shipyard itself continues to fascinate with so many sorts of junk turning up and disappearing. This time the new arrivals included a large yachts keel ( blade and torpedo shape) and a child's spiral slide.
We had a worrying encounter with a very brave Finnish lady of about 45 -50 who was using with great difficulty a rollator ( sort of push along seat with brakes) to get along the pontoon. It appears she had had a bad attack of Lyme disease which had affected her back ( spinal cord?) and so had very little control of her legs. Her retraining was slow but continuing. I had not realised this was one of the dangers attending Lyme disease and Kristin and I have both had attacks of the disease.
we moved off the next day to Hogmarso - a journey of less than three miles.
Hogmarso provides free, fendered moorings but no services at all, no water, electricity, toilets, showers. There are toilets when the restaurant is open though. The local supermarket remains good but the restaurant quality has gone down. The staff are concentrating more on the music that they provide. We left because a Rock concert was to be perpatrated the next evening. The shipyard itself continues to fascinate with so many sorts of junk turning up and disappearing. This time the new arrivals included a large yachts keel ( blade and torpedo shape) and a child's spiral slide.
Wednesday 9 July 2014
Life at Paradiset
Paradiset is the name given to an enclosed "lake" lying between Finnhamn and Idholmen. The water depth iis mostly around 7 metres and the lake is surrounded by woodland and cliffs. It is deservedly popular and we have seen about 100 boats moored to the rocks with 15 anchored in the middle. It still did not feel crowded and it was quiet. People wanting entertainment do not stay long. We anchored in 8 metres of water and the anchor held at once. We continue to gain confidence in the Rocna.
It is enormously enjoyable just sitting on Badger and looking round at the water, the surrounding cliffs and woods and of course the boats that come and go and the children jumping off the springboard. We made new friend there; Artur and Marie who are English but live in Finlandd and are restoring a 2/3 scale Nantucket Trader. This makes an enormous boat for just two people and very comfortable. Finnhamn is a good place to walk in and we enjoyed a very pleasant stroll to a farm said to supply ecological veg. However we only manged to buy 6 very nice eggs as the season was delayed by cold. I did manage a very brief swim but the cold water 18C made it valuable more for hygiene than pleasure.
We always love Paradiset and regret leaving the place but low water and food stocks made going essential
It is enormously enjoyable just sitting on Badger and looking round at the water, the surrounding cliffs and woods and of course the boats that come and go and the children jumping off the springboard. We made new friend there; Artur and Marie who are English but live in Finlandd and are restoring a 2/3 scale Nantucket Trader. This makes an enormous boat for just two people and very comfortable. Finnhamn is a good place to walk in and we enjoyed a very pleasant stroll to a farm said to supply ecological veg. However we only manged to buy 6 very nice eggs as the season was delayed by cold. I did manage a very brief swim but the cold water 18C made it valuable more for hygiene than pleasure.
We always love Paradiset and regret leaving the place but low water and food stocks made going essential
Tuesday 8 July 2014
Malma Kvarn to Paradiset 4th July
We left Malma in glorious warm sunlight anda weak southerly breeze to sail northeast and thern north to Paradiset on Finnhamn.
we unrolled the jib but could get between 1.5 and 2.5 kts. which was not enough so on with the motor again. We went up Namdo fjarden to Stavsnas (59N17.2, 18E 46.2) which is actually the location of Tegelhallan light. Here we wriggled through the gaps and out into Kanholms Fjarden. (59N20, 18E46. This is one of the main routes for ships going in to Stockholm adn we kept a good look out behind as well as in front. In 2000 We had been going NE in this fjard and suddenly a couple of liners came hammering out from behind a small island. We had to do a rapid 360 degree turn to keep out of their way.
Life was about to become a little more complicated as we exited Kanholms fjarden between two islets at 59N22.1,18E47.4. This led us through a small archipelago of islands with several summer houses discreetly placed. What dis stand our was a wood fired hot tub on a bluff with a gorgeous view all round. I have no idea whether they used sea or fresh water to fill it. It was a long way above the sea and fresh water is usually too precious to waste on a hot tub. This was a lovely area and I would love to think of having a hut here. Soon we got into more open water at 59N33.6, 18E46.5, only to wriggle back into the tight space at. Norra Stavsudda 59N24.5, 18E46.85. Here is placed a Swedish Cruising Club buoy which we took over from a fellow British buoy. It is a very attractive mooring with cliffs, woodland but also shop, cafe and fuel station. Regrettably the cafe was expensive, mean, used cardboard plates and served indiferent food. The shop had poor stock and there was a surprising amount of sea traffic so rather unpeaceful. We took a short walk through quiet lanes with many flowers, both wild and garden escapees. As a destination though it lacked all the qualities we like so we went off further north to Paradiset 59N28.4, 18E48.5. You might like to speculate on our route between the two. The weather was hot and sunny with light breezes all the time.
we unrolled the jib but could get between 1.5 and 2.5 kts. which was not enough so on with the motor again. We went up Namdo fjarden to Stavsnas (59N17.2, 18E 46.2) which is actually the location of Tegelhallan light. Here we wriggled through the gaps and out into Kanholms Fjarden. (59N20, 18E46. This is one of the main routes for ships going in to Stockholm adn we kept a good look out behind as well as in front. In 2000 We had been going NE in this fjard and suddenly a couple of liners came hammering out from behind a small island. We had to do a rapid 360 degree turn to keep out of their way.
Life was about to become a little more complicated as we exited Kanholms fjarden between two islets at 59N22.1,18E47.4. This led us through a small archipelago of islands with several summer houses discreetly placed. What dis stand our was a wood fired hot tub on a bluff with a gorgeous view all round. I have no idea whether they used sea or fresh water to fill it. It was a long way above the sea and fresh water is usually too precious to waste on a hot tub. This was a lovely area and I would love to think of having a hut here. Soon we got into more open water at 59N33.6, 18E46.5, only to wriggle back into the tight space at. Norra Stavsudda 59N24.5, 18E46.85. Here is placed a Swedish Cruising Club buoy which we took over from a fellow British buoy. It is a very attractive mooring with cliffs, woodland but also shop, cafe and fuel station. Regrettably the cafe was expensive, mean, used cardboard plates and served indiferent food. The shop had poor stock and there was a surprising amount of sea traffic so rather unpeaceful. We took a short walk through quiet lanes with many flowers, both wild and garden escapees. As a destination though it lacked all the qualities we like so we went off further north to Paradiset 59N28.4, 18E48.5. You might like to speculate on our route between the two. The weather was hot and sunny with light breezes all the time.
Staying at Malma Kvarn again 2nd - 4th July
In the afternoon we found a large part of the chef tribe; Johan his wife Blenda and her daughter. We had another marmalade tasting, this time of some delicious lemon marmalade, made by our friend Helena (from the Music Festival) This was approved and the recipe requested - work in progress. Dinner was smked cod for Kristin ( a bit too salty) and gorgeous steak for me.
We remained in harbour and I got Kristin out into the woodlands by the local lake which is in many ways one the the environments she most likes. I have a picture of her which I'll post. We ate again at Johan's with a more successful cod for Kristin and superb mussels for me. and eft in sunshine the next morning.
We remained in harbour and I got Kristin out into the woodlands by the local lake which is in many ways one the the environments she most likes. I have a picture of her which I'll post. We ate again at Johan's with a more successful cod for Kristin and superb mussels for me. and eft in sunshine the next morning.
Kolnasviken to Malma Kvarn ( 59N15.9, 18E39.5) 2nd July
We recovered the anchor with just a little wait for it to releas from the bottom. It came up very caked in clay which was difficult to remove. The deck broom got full of mud and is too big to get into the anchor crevices. We need a trowel. However it does set fast and hold firm. Our exit from Kolnasviken was just as twitch making as the entry but successful. We made off up the lead N of Orno in sunshine and warmer weather.
I'd been intrigued by the mention of a secluded guest harbour and hotel restaurant complex at Sma Dalaro and went to have a look. The island to the east Krogholmen is pretty horrid with big building progrmmes both at the shore and inland with an enormous hotel? being built in a large plastic tent, otally dominating the surroundings. The marina is entered via a very narrow canal at 59N09.9,18E27.85. The immediate neighbourhood of the hotel is reasonable but development is proceeding very fast and the area sems overcrowded and unpeaceful. The hotlel has mixed reviews so it was a quick tour round the pool and we left not intending to return. Outside the world went on and v=beauty returned quickly. We made Malma Kvarn in time for lunch onlyh to find the restaurant did not open till evening. We moored up at the far end of the harbour this time rather more peaceful and just enough water and had lunch on board and started waiting for dinner - as well as going on scraping and oiling teak.
I'd been intrigued by the mention of a secluded guest harbour and hotel restaurant complex at Sma Dalaro and went to have a look. The island to the east Krogholmen is pretty horrid with big building progrmmes both at the shore and inland with an enormous hotel? being built in a large plastic tent, otally dominating the surroundings. The marina is entered via a very narrow canal at 59N09.9,18E27.85. The immediate neighbourhood of the hotel is reasonable but development is proceeding very fast and the area sems overcrowded and unpeaceful. The hotlel has mixed reviews so it was a quick tour round the pool and we left not intending to return. Outside the world went on and v=beauty returned quickly. We made Malma Kvarn in time for lunch onlyh to find the restaurant did not open till evening. We moored up at the far end of the harbour this time rather more peaceful and just enough water and had lunch on board and started waiting for dinner - as well as going on scraping and oiling teak.
Nynashamn to Kolnasviken 1st July
We first had a short walk round "three corner island" looking at the splendid houses of the rich and at the very ornate hotel and bath house that can been seen from the sea while still a long distance out. We went on to have lunch and then decided on a late departure to get past the open waters of Myssingen. The weather was cold 13.7 C and cloudy with threatening rain which soon arrived - but did not last. We made steady progress unde jib and motoer and duly arrived at the entrance to Kolnasviken. ( 59N05.1, 18E24) The GPS isnot in close agreement witht he charts and the channel between shoals is very narrow so the piot, speaking off "awash steep sided rocks" has to be consulted. We have been in before and our recorded trails sometimes intersect one of the rocks. So here the eyeball is king. We dropped the anchor in 6 metres of water and stayed secure in good shelter all night.
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