10th -15th July 2017 Hogmarso

We left Malma Kvarn for Gallno for a second visit, just a matter of sixteen miles, no longer and anchored in the same place as before. I inflated the dinghy but found it was taking a long time before I realised the pump handle and stem had become loose and much air was escaping. That corrected inflation was easy enough. This time I tried the electric outboard on a longer trip; perhaps a kilometre in all. It worked fine and I have not really tested yet its endurance. We stayed there two nightswith no more than three other boats visible, surrounded by beauty and very peaceful. We did notice the distant noise of fast powerboats, but it was far away.
We then left for Ingmarso and were lucky to find a place on the long bridge pontoon to shore, having to miss a large motor boat and still come parallel to the quay with the wind behind us. Lena, the harbourmaster helped us as she often did. We tied up and other boats arrived round us while we wondered how we would be able to leave. Ingmarso was as lovely as ever and we both regret that this harbour will close at the end of the season as both harbourmaster and boatyard owner are retiring.

Barbeques on the rocks at Ingmarso

We did manage to get out of the harbour and Badger, for once behaved impeccably when in reverse Hogmarso and then raising sail for a lovely, if slow, passage under a following breeze north through a wriggly path between scattered islands. After this we had to turn west to go south of  Sjalbottna before heading north to reach and cross the main shipping channel. In the distance to the north east we could see a couple of ships end on but it was unclear whether they were coming or going. Luckily no ships were approaching from the south east as just at this spot they make a quick turn through about 20 degrees making it very difficult to predict their arrival time. We made it still with the ships fairly distant and sailed on and saw this remarkable  autogyro.

We eventually lowered sail,  arrived at Hogmarso and tied up safely to a padded pontoon. Hogmarso is home to a shipyard, Furusunds Slip by name that has a wonderful collection of projects., many pretty derelict.  The biggest is undoubtedly a huge Chines Restaurant on a barge with dragon head and tail.

The main working project is window replacement on a submersible tourist boat. The new perspex windows being fitted are about three inches thick. There's another identical boat near by.
The Yard also houses a quite good open air restaurant and nearby is a good food shop. The moorings are free but absolutely no services are provided, no water, toilets, showers, electricity, nothing. It does attract strange yachts and one inhabitant is a 3-4 deck motor yacht about 20 metres long. It is much too large to fit into most marinas and this spot with restaurant and wrecks on one side a pretty islands on the other is a good spot to visit. In addition ocean liners silently go by on their way into Stockholm every now and then. Many prosperous people live here at least in summer and this is an attractive estate.

Hogmarso house and garden

We will be off to Norrtalje next attending a music festival and hoping not to have strong easterly winds.

5th - 9th July 2017 Malma Kvarn

Wednesday 5th July was sunny but cold with a light northwesterly breeze when we set off from Wasahamnen at about 0900. We suffered from the constant succession of fast ferries with dreadful wakes. We did have one traffic situation involving a an old fashioned steam excursion boat, a fast ferry and a Viking Line ship which required thought as the Viking Line was clearly trying to turn in order to dock and the tracks of the other two boats were difficult to predict. Luckily the engine was working well after the work I'd done earlier.

hot smoked salmon from Sabis

The breeze was not really enough to sail by and, in any case, we needed more fuel. We continued motoring, as fast as we dared, out of Stockholm and  then south, down Skurusundet (what a splendid name) towards Baggenstacket. Skurusundet starts off as a very steep-sided valley with wonderful tall wooden houses with amazing long flights of stairs leading down to the water. Originally these were essential for travel into Stockholm but mow there is a bridge. Half way down Skurusundet we bought some very expensive diesel and found we'd used about 41 litres this season. After Skurusundet our course was east through Lannerstasundet. Here the north side is being developed with enormous blocks of quite hideous flats. The demolition of old factory buildings, excavation and building has been going on for many years with dreadful results. Further on Edwardian style lovely houses and gardens predominate. What must they think of their new neighbours?
Our next problem was Baggenstacket, a narrow, winding and partly canalised channel. Getting through it is easy enough but one may face competition from much larger vessels and I dislike intensely sharing the narrowest stretches with a Large passenger ferry or a long nosed gravel boat. We have just missed both types in previous visits. Luck was with us again.
Once through Babbenstaket we were in Baggensfjarden and able to unfurl the jib and sail gently with a following wind very pleasantly indeed. Our only problem was the wind was slightly flukey due to the islands so we had to jibe the jib from side to side too often for comfort. We were by this time free of ferries and  the like and few motorboats were out which was a relief as they also make large wakes.
From Baggens fjarden we proceeded to Agnofjarden where the water widened. To port were the highish cliffs of Ingaro and to the west, many small islands, some of which have good natural harbours. All the way so far we had passed staircases down the cliffs and smal private docks. The usually had small motorboats as runabouts, often out of the water on hydraulically operated lifts to protect against wake damage. This is as much a measure of the affluence of the inhabitants as it is of the careless behaviour of the motorboat drivers.
Towards the end of Agnofjarden, the wind died and the sky clouded up. We put on the motor and rolled up the jib rather reluctantly as we came out into open water and headed northwest. Soon the wind came in from the northwest, heading us and slowing our progress. However to port the islands fringing Ingaro were of interest and we were nearly at Malma Kvarn. However the sky darkened and were rained on but only gently. We found the harbour very crowded, and having lost a somewhat circuitous race with a larger boat through the school fleet of dinghies we found a berth in the reeds in a corner of the harbour.
Malma Kvarn is always a delight even in bad weather. It is very beautiful, has a lovely bathing and fishing lake behind it and a good restaurant on the quay. The only smallish fly in the ointment is that the inlet outside the harbour is used as a short cut by numberless fast motor craft which make boats tied up outside the restaurant roll heavily.

Badger in the reeds

We, in the reeds are spared this annoyance. This part of the harbour is shallow and the sounder shows zero depth under the keel; however the bottom is soft mud.
Outside the harbour are many small to medium summer residences, often place perfectly on little bluffs overlooking the sea. In between is surprisingly rough country, heavily forested, mainly with what we would call Scots pines and silver birch trees. Entertainment is provided by the sailing school, learning how to rig, sail, steer and clean their dinghies. There are many deer around though we see them seldom and we've been amazed at their agility on the little cliffs and their ability to scramble very quickly up into the trees and away. They are incredible athletes with cloven hooves.
We feel immensely privileged to be here.

Restaurant Interior

Boats in harbour

28th June to 4th July 2017 in Stockholm

After sorting ( we hope) the engine we have been in Wasahamnen enjoying Stockholm and its pleasures. We visited Waldermarsudden to see three exhibitions of painting which left us somewhat overloaded with art. We had OK to good weather most of the time but it was fairly cold.
The only real news is that I made up a new and larger boom tent in clear reinforced plastic. Our UK supplier calls it Monotex but I've seen something very similar used to sheet buildings under construction.
I had one nasty scare. I was standing on the counter trying to decide where to cut off excess material and realising, just like all dressmakers, that you only get one chance. While facing aft and holding the sheeting, I moved backwards and tripped over the edge of the cockpit, falling backwards onto the cockpit seating. Luckily, or unluckily, I was holding the sheeting and, while falling, ripped it over a couple of metres. The force required to rip it made my fall easy and I only slightly hurt my backside. It was a very fortunate and unlikely outcome. However it did necessitate a long mending job which Kristin did very promptly and without any reproach. The tent is now in place and working well with the repair proving watertight. I still have to work out exactly where to cut round the stern of the boat to get optimum rain proofing together with good ventilation.
Today we did a massive food shopping at Sabis which continues to amaze at the quality of its fish and cheese counters. We hope, if the weather is kind to be off cruising tomorrow with our first objective being Malma Kvarn which has, are you surprised, a good restaurant.