To Nykoping

We’d noticed a British yacht in the distance so when we’d raised the anchor we motored over for a closer look. It was the Halliwells again whom we’d met in Stockholm earlier. We motored off after establishing they were bound for Nykoping. We went through Stendorren and raised sail to sail very pleasantly in bright sun through the usual rous to Nykoping arriving in a strong easterly breeze. This caused us some trouble turning into the berth and had to make two attempts. Louise Halliwell rushed about to help us not knowing where we wished to moor. We prefer the middle pontoon as its moorings are not too wide. Louise was nevertheless in time to take warps and her help was very welcome. They were on the way south to Germany to lay up while we were in Nykoping to buy food and to do some winterising work.

Kristin scrubbed the cockpit grid, treated it with oxalic acid and oiled it several times to give it a good colour. We noticed a lot of dirt getting aboard on our shoes and need to take action to prevent this as it erodes the oil from the teak and dirties it. In the meantime I did maintenance work on the engine and emailed Vectamarine as I'm unsatisfied with speed I can run the engine at (any faster than 2400 rpm the engine temperature frightens us). I also managed to buy EP 80 oil which I've been unable to do before and changed the windlass oil finding it clean and waterfree to my great relief. I don’t have to buy another windlass. We also went to the medical centre to get my shoulder treated and Kristin’s blood tested. Regrettably the Pud School is still on holiday and also our favourite Sushi Bar.

Rassavikar to Ringson

Up fairly late after the strenuous sailing of yesterday but were away by 0900 heading for the exit bridge at Tottnas. The forecast was for light southerly breezes. We were passed outside Rassavikar by a Vindo heading south who would be forced to go through the more exposed passages north or south of Oja. As we headed through the wriggles I wondered why the Vindo had gone south. I eventually twigged that once free of Oja he would have an easy beam wind sail west in fairly open water to Savosundet while we had a longer and more tortuous route. The passage to Tottnas always tsakes us longer than expected and is always enjoyable and we arrived about 15 minutes before the bridge opened. We duly headed SSW under motor and main down the passage between Liso and Svardso slightly puzzled by the odd buoyage ( two green buoys close together on the same side of the channel with a passage for small craft between them. There’s a navigational oddity compounded by a rather over specified lighthouse here which may relate to a former factory site.

Leaving this query behind we turne NW at the end of the fjord and unfurled the jib having a gorgeous run to Galklubb light but peering out cautiously at the northern end of Ramsholm in case a big ship was behind it going to Sodertalje. There wasn’t so we scooted across the big ship channel and wriggled our way past a series of rocks before joinging a passage going WSW to Svarthall light and later to the complicated passage through Bokosund. Here we started to meet the high speed motor boats cutting up the water and making life miserable. In addition we were now heading south with the wind on the nose – suffering for not having gone south like the Vindo.

The motor boats were soon gone but so was the sun for a while and we furled the jib and motored on to Savosundet, taking a short cut through a magnetic anomaly which proved to be too feeble to register. After Savosundet we could sail again but there was much sailing traffic and with the wind from our port side we had to do the avoiding. We were now gradually turning to the south to get to Ringson so eventually lowered sail and motored south and into Ringson’s southern entrance to anchor in a fleet of about twenty yachts and good shelter.

Rassavikar

After our luxurious Martin and Maria left (we thought heading north) and headed south and west with an eventual target of Broken. We had a southerly breeze and were able to sail much of the way heading initially for the NW side of Orno. We passed Kolnasviken, a possible destination, sailing well and far too early to stop so pressed on. The wind strengthened as we came into less sheltered water and a warm sun gave extra pleasure. It is surprising just how well Badger sails in comparison with larger boats (probably crewed by less experienced sailors to be truthful). Regrettably, the wind, as forecast went round to the SW, dead on the nose, and strengthened further and kicking up a chop by the time we reached the seamen's memorial on Kapellon. In addition the sun was in our eyes. Incidentally, Myssingnen seems an odd place for a seamen’s memorial as big ships don’t go past it as the NE end of the passage is too wriggly and narrow for big ships. We took down the jib but kept up the main as it was a bit bouncy for Kristin to get it down and she is the fore deck gorilla. It was surprisingly difficult to check visually where we were and boats appeared to be going off to starboard, giving us the worry we might be missing a more sheltered route to Nynashamn. Looking at the chart persuaded us that there was no such passage and one catamaran much closer to shore than us eventually turned tail which suggested she had been mistaken and reconciling us somewhat to our fate. Much of this was wishful thinking. “There must be a way of avoiding this unpleasantness and one of these boats knows something we don't.” In fact the entry to Nynashamn is pretty obvious and it was marked by a vast cruise liner anchored north of the ferry harbour.

Eventually the wind dropped a bit, we turned into shelter and lowered the main in the lightle bight at the north end of Bedaron. Much relieved, we looked with scorn at a very crowded guest harbour at Nynashamn, thought with some regret of the smoked shrimps in the Smokery and motored on south bound for the archipelago and Dragets Canal. The archipelago was sheltered, warm and quiet. Moreover we got through the initial narrows and Dragets without meeting any other traffic and arrived at Rassavikar to anchor and enjoy a quiet evening and night.

Nynashamn to Malma

The forecast was good so up early and to the fuel pontoon for a refill. I'm finding the fuel prices a bit frightening but actually they’re not much worse than the car. We had to motor tack up Myssingen for an hour or two, somewhat distractedly as my nose started to bleed again. Eventually that stopped, the wind veered a little, we unfurled the jib and started to sail really well; or at least we did when I was paying attention to steering and sail trim. We managed to beat a larger and more modern boat by a considerable, and probably unmerited, satisfaction. The wind continued to veer and free up until we had a fresh following breeze and a somewhat rolly sea but made good progress to Malma Kvarn, one of our favourite places. Off the entrance we tried to furl the genoa and the line jammed in the drum. Kristin had to lower the main under difficult conditions which she managed very well. I then went forward to try to clear the jam. I managed to turn the furling drum by hand, a little at a time while Kristin alternately steered and pulled in the slack line. Luckily we were in an area of clear water. Eventually I was able to pull out the line by hand, a little at a time while lying on the deck and Kristin then retrieved it bit by bit. It was exciting while it lasted. I think we’d pulled too hard on the furling line while the jib sheets were not free enough. We motored in to Malma and got a good place opposite the restaurant. Now we had much enjoyed the restaurant in 2000 when sailing with Sara and David but it had been closed for some years. Now it is open again , starting just three weeks ago with a new chef who owns hotels in Sweden and a restaurant in Nice and who cooks very well. We much enjoyed our dinner there that night.

Also that night I had another nosebleed. Kristin contacted the chef the next morning, who contacted the local health centre and organised a lift for me. I got taken to Gustavsberg, had a minor op there and a pleasant Thai lunch and returned to the boat by taxi. Problem largely solved. We made small gifts to those who’d helped including some of Kristin’s marmalade to the chef. This immediately appeared on the menu as part of a dessert. This consisted of panacotta with raspberry coulee on top and marmalade at the bottom giving a distinct bittersweet kick to the end of the dish. We are immensely flattered by the compliment. We are having great difficulty in leaving Malma. The restaurant food is excellent, the surroundings are beautiful, we have warm water in the lake to swim in and have found strawberries in the woods. However, we are planning an very early departure for ?????

Dragets Canal to Nynashamn

We got up early to get through Dragets Canal before the idiot motor boaters arrived. Even so we met a train of four fast motorboats on the way into the wriggles and were glad to have missed them in the narrow sections. We stayed two nights in Nynashamn to be sure I’d recovered. Kristin washed some clothes and we shopped for food and checked out restaurants. The main one on the dockside now does buffet lunches only with slightly tired dishes and not much finesse. The smokery has a bigger restaurant doing cold dishes and its own specialities – much better.

Broken to Rassavikar

We set off to the NE aiming for the Nynashamn archipelago, finding that the stern anchor had not set properly when we arrived. Luckily the wind had been consistently on the bow during our stay. I have to check more carefully on this in future. We could not sail until we had passed Savosundet but then found sufficient of an SE breeze to be able to sail close-hauled due E across the less sheltered part of the passage, again in bright sun but a little unsatisfied with Badger’s performance, she is not particularly close winded. After some miles we had to go north, so losing most of the wind and motoring instead.

We arrived at Tottnas bridge 15 minutes before the hour and moored to the waiting pontoon while a small group of wooden motorboats gathered round us. As the bridge opened the lead motorway got into position in front of the bridge opening and then havered preventing anyone getting through. Eventually he made it through and slowly pottered on so we became pretty impatient. From time to time he made a quick turn to starboard and back. It seemed he wanted to look for the other motor boats but could not do so just by moving his head. It was all quite dangerous. Eventually he did a 180 degree turn regardless of us and we managed to avoid him – just and got away from this incompetent shower. We motored on to Rassavikar and anchored in 6 metres of water and settled down for the evening without further crises.

Regrettably, I woke up in the middle of the night with a nose bleed and something wet and sticky under my neck which turned out to be blood. It was very alarming for Kristin and ruined a pillow. Kristin cleaned me up and we went back to sleep.

Braviken to Broken

Motored gently off to broken in fine weather. We found the harbour fairly full but no club boats present. There were, however a large group of vintage wooden boats, both sail and motor, including some amazing gentleman's motor boats. One had a separate forward deck house for the crew with a gap between it and the owner's saloon. We stayed two nights enjoying the surroundings but the water was a bit too cold for swimming. Henrik (the harbourmaster) and his family had a very busy time with the harbour full and orders for 112 rolls for breakfast. At 7 SEK each not a bad sideline.

Mon to Braviken

With a forecast of strong winds later, we got up at 0500, breakfasted and were away in calm conditions and bright sun motoring back on our outward track admiring the scenery by 0600. After passing our former anchorage we continued towards the NE south of Inner Karro and on to join the main route just N of Rodakuggan. This part of the route is broad and well marked with highish wooded islands and some interesting skerries S of Aspoja we have yet to explore. Here we saw anchored a three masted ship we had seen previously and then went right up to a starboard hand buoy with a gold crown on it called Kejsaren or Tzar. It is of ancient origin and sailors used to drink a toast when they passed it from joy at getting past the perils of the rocks. Since there are considerable perils in both directions for a sailing ship the toast was probably justified in both directions. Close inspection of the buoy shows empty tot glasses on it. After this buoy the channel widens until we get to the Arkosund complex. It’s quite easy to make mistakes here and I've seen a forty foot Janneau with a broken back from hitting a rock in Arkosund at seven knots.

Because of the expected strong winds, we’d intended to stop in Arkosund but luckily it was just 0900 so we listened to the up to date forecast which was benign and decided to go on across Braviken. The Promarina guest harbour here has been rebuilt, putting all the guest places together where there is least shelter from bad weather and equipping the places with lazy lines. These are slimy ropes you have to drag up from the bottom of the harbour to attach to stern cleats – unpleasant. We went a little further north to look at a yacht club harbour which looked a much better bet but decided to go on. In some ways it was a pity. Arkosund has some splendid ornate late 19th early 20th C houses that are distinctly Addams Family but without the bats. We had a very pleasant sunny sail across Braviken, a little too close hauled for real enjoyment but welcome all the same and went into Oxelosund Fishing harbour which has excellent shelter and a reasonable restaurant. We were met unexpectedly by Roger and Gwyn Robson which was very pleasant. They had stopped at Broken and been told we had joined that club. The fishing harbour was very crowded by people wishing to avoid the promised strong winds which duly arrived later in the day. We spent the next day on chores, shopping via the road train and washing clothes and ourselves. The evening was shared happily with Roger and Gwyn.

Stora to Mon

Up early, releasing the buoy at 0810. We went north under main and motor, getting a little lift from a gentle westerly breeze. We found a Hallberg Rassy making a very cautious approach to Hasko from the south and wonder if he made it. The plotter seemed to suggest it was possible. Several people have now told us to go there as the smoked salmon is superb. We also found people coming from the east who could only have come from a difficult little passage which is a short cut to Harstena from the south. This looks quite difficult on the chart but probably looks much easier on the plotter – it is clearly a familiar passage to Swedish sailors. We had done this once before but reckoned it a little too risky for repeated use.

We left the main route Vaggo, passing between this island and Snuggholmen to continue north, just W of Vasteron and Missjo, now under power as we had a tricky set of passages ahead of us. We turned NW and went along a narrow railway cutting sort of passage between Inner and outer Olsen. There's a nasty little awash rock on the port side of the passage to be avoided but otherwise it was clear. We then turned SW and proceeded carefully through the shallows between Brandsholmen and Grimelso into deep water again. South of Grimmelso there’s a lovely inlet, well sheltered except from the NW where we had anchored some years before and we had been up to this point following a previous track on our plotter; from now on, all was new. The remainder of the days travel was relatively easy, all in “white” (more than 6 metre depth) water and requiring only the careful following of a pre-plotted track till we reached our objective, Mon.

The area, known as Halfjarden, is a delight, much used by canoeists who can go everywhere and who, alone can use any entrance other than the one we did. There is no through traffic and little in the way of fast motor boats. The guest harbour has a large and obvious boat house cum café, largely built by with EU money. Only the root pontoon is available for visitors and will accept about five boats more alongside. Facilities include water on the pontoon, electricity from the boathouse with showers and toilets some distance away. The site itself is mainly concerned with campers, hut renters and caravanners with a substantial number of resident boats. At the far end of the site, a good if very expensive restaurant will serve lunches and dinners. It is a lovely place to visit.

Loftahammer to Stora

Up early and refilled at the automatic fuel station. We've used a lot of fuel this year and the price of a refill is now around £80, which is frightening.

We then got out and set off under the jib in sunshine and in a gentle NW breeze which soon died out but was good while it lasted so we resorted to the engine and set off north up the narrow series of leads which is the main coastal “motorway”in a gentle northerly. This eventually veered NE so we raised the main to get a little lift, cursing all those coasting south with sails out. This is a particularly beautiful part of the archipelago with open water not far away to the east beyond smooth pale grey whale-backed rocks, and forested islands to the west. The forests contain numerous very twisted Scots pines with beautiful reddish brown bark.

For the last few miles the wind veered enough to let us get the jib up and sail to Stora Alo for the night, taking a buoy but missing a meeting with Peter Hallberg, who was in a harbour nearby. We had trouble with the internet connection for some reason that night, possibly a weak signal, so missed a message from him till too late. We saw less bird life at Stora than previously, though the water was full of little fish, sometimes fleeing through the air pursued by predators.

Loftahammar

Motored into Loftahammar to stock up with food, smoked fish and a nice cake. Loftahammar has three good food shops – amazing. The weather is dull and threatening but so far nothing has happened.

We are on our way north now; towards the Stockholm Archipelago and the Norrtalje Music Festival

Vastervik to Loftahammar

Left Vastervik heading north. We had a nasty rolly swell outside in open water so dived as quickly as possible back into along inlet with a “back door” into Loftahammar that we have used before. We did a little sailing when we got into calmer waters but the wind died soon after the swell. We ended up in a quiet lagoon for the night. I modified the anchor chain stowage slightly so we have less chain in the main locker where it piles up in a heap when unanchoring so we have to push the heap over several times to stop it blocking the hawse pipe. It seems to have been effective.

To Vastervik

Left Blankaholm for Vastervik, enjoying the scenic route once more. It is very enclosed, complicated and beautiful, quite unspoiled. We managed some very gentle sailing until close to the Vastervik entrance and then motored in to Notholmen once more.

We had an engineer look at Badger’s transmission which seemed to have got noisy but he said it was OK. Kristin had some blood tests and we tried to buy food with a little more success. Frankly, carrying supermarket loads for a couple of miles is very unattractive.