The end of the festival had left us musicked out and fairly tired so we had a lot of down time, and cleaned house and spent time with friends in the marina. We also made progress in writing up instructions for toilet use and doing little jobs on the boat.
We were waiting for the arrival of our friend and opthalmologist, Richard Hoyland who arrived on Sunday 12th June to have a brief sail with us. He duly arrived and went off to see the Vasa and later on a little of Stockholm.
Richard was staying for a week so we had to plan a cruise which introduced a little of the Stockholm Skaergard but which lessened the risk of TBE ( tick borne encephalitis) as he had not been able to get immunised against it before arrival. A further problem was the weather forecast, which was for good weather for the first three days with likelihood of bad weather later on.
We had provisioned and left on Monday 13th to sail to Malma Kvarn but stopped to refuel at the Feather Islands ( Fjaderholmarna). We had four empty 10 litre cans and had motored 80 miles to Stockholm from Nykoping so the matter was urgent. We had the usual problem discovering how to use the automatic payment system with a dim LCD screen and bright sunlight but eventually the job was done. As usual, Stockholm harbour was criss-crossed by fast ferries leaving enormous wakes so motoring our was less than pleasant.
Turning South into the steep walled cutting leading to Baggenstacket improved matters immediately. The older houses perched on the slope were splendid, the sun was shining and there was plenty to observe and speculate about. The problem of excessive speed in the channel is shown by the number of small power boats stored clear of the water on what must be very expensive powered boat lifts.
Once through this amazing "cutting" our path turned east through woodland and boat parks to Baggenstacket itself. The initial canalized part is narrow and curved. We tend to be cautious here as we have seen largish ships using the canal; particularly a long nosed gravel boat (it has a long conveyor poking out of the bow, designed to deliver gravel and sand onto land over shallow water and rocks) and a fast Vaxholm ferry. I would not like to meet either in a 10 metre wide channel. Happily we were preceded by an official boat of some sort and had no surprises.
Once our we put up the main and eventually the jib to sail, initialy slowly to the SE down the long lengths of Baggensfjard and Ingarofjard. The southerly wind gradually increased giving us extra speed in good sunny weather but we had some difficulty in keeping away from the cliffs of Ingaro.
At one point we got up to 7.2 kts. which impressed us but made steering hard. We were a little over canvassed.
At the exit to open water we were able to ease sheets, moderate our speed and lessen the drama while heading N of E along a well marked channel past Grono and Kofoten lights.
At one point we were overtaken by an autogyro equipped with floats. I dont think I have ever seen one before. This one took two people in separate open cockpits one behind the other. It was driven b a pusher propellor with a much larger hovering propellor above. The noise level was surprisingly low compared with helicopters. The floats were long tubes with hemispherical ends which surprised me. I would not have thought that such clumsy hulls would have allowed the autogyro to get up sufficient speed to take off.
Soon after this we approached Malma Kvarn (59N15.3,18E36.9) seeing a small crowd of dinghies from the sailing school at Malma practicing and managed ro avoid them in their erratic manouvres, drop sail and motor in. As is our usual practice now we went straight for the innermost moorings, hooked a buoy, Richard stepped ashore and we tied up. An English sailor approached us later to say we must have been here before as we'd picked a better mooring than he had. The harbour itself was very quiet with the restaurant deserted. However we had both power and water together with good food so ate happily and went to bed content.
Next day our destination was Sandhamn with a short but not very interesting sail along large shipping channels for the most part. I looked rather more carefully at the chart to find a "short" cut south of Munko (59N14,18E43.5 that looked promising. We sailed slowly across to Munko and turned NE through a charted channel and this proved fruitful with a pleasant if fleeting visit to an out island community both sides of a narrow channel beteen Langholmen and Runmaro. Our track then turned E to approach Sandhamn and then turned N close to Sandhamn itself along the big ship track, keeping a nervous eye both in front and behind in case something very large started to get near us. Nothing was seen and we turned the corner and made for the KSSS ( Royal Sailing Club) harbour on Lokhomen on the other side of th channel to Sandhamn.
Lokhomen harbour is in three sections. The first is on a separate island (59N17.4,18E55.6) with a rather open staging and buoys on the E side, intended for large boats. The inlet between this island and Lokholmen is mainly intended for club members but does have some visitor accommodation but we chose to go further north through a very shallow channel to very lovely moorings on the NE side of Lokholmen. We lay to the staging and our stern anchor but put out a warp to shore from our port center cleat for extra security. These mooring were well equipped with water, electricity and rubbish bins and were in a very well sheltered pool with high rocky walls. richard took the free ferry to Sandhamn to explore but we stayed with the boat.
I was beginning to cough a lot and was not feeling particularly well. Nontheless, this had been a good day's exploration and sail.
The following day we set off for Ingmarso, partly to get better shelter for poorer weather already forecast but mainly to traverse some fun areas of the middle Skargard.
We travelled ENE along the main shipping route towards Stockhom, again being cautious about big ships but at Gastholmsgrund Light we turned N across Kanholmsfjarden. This was where the Russian submarine was spotted last winter and it must have had a good navigator on board. We sailed north looking behind us to port as a large inter-island ferry cum workboat appeared to be wanting to ram us but we passed ahead and soon got to the narrow entry into a crowd of islands at 59N22.1,18E47.36 and then passed W of Sack and then through the shallow and narrow channel between Norra Stavsudda and Lindholmen ( 59N23.4, 18E 46.85). Although Norra Stavsudda is very pretty we found it disappointing in a previous visit with a poorly stocked shop and a bad restaurant so we did not pause but went N through clearer water to go W of Stor-Kunnan and Kapholmen crossing Traskofjarden to wriggle W of Gistholmen and Soderon to Ingmarso. We stayed here two nights as the following day was wet, we rigged the cockpit sheet for comfort and protection and Richard explored the island on foot. The shp here is well stocked but the restaurant menu looked uninteresting this year so again we ate on-board. I was glad of the rest and continued to cough and splutter. On Friday we got up at 0445 on a very quiet grey day to make our way back to Stockholm. The forecast for the weekend was Saturday and Sunday was poor and entertainment better in Town. Our route back along Traskofjarden, down the W side of the Gallno complex and through Grindafjarden and Lindalsundet was conventional but had an exciting moment when we had to cross the main shipping route approaching Oxdupet.
We had noticed the distant approach of two International ferries to the north and they passed us as we were close to Brodsticket Light (59N25.4, 18E24.2) The first reached Oxdupet 1.6 miles away, turned t starboard and disappeared. The second approached Oxdupet and I prepared to cross behind it. I suddenly notice a third ferry coming towards us FROM Oxdupet that I had not spotted at all. I hadn't anticipated it as ships are not usually allowed to cross in this region. We made a rapid turn away and the third ship passed us very quickly. We made our onward way to Stockholm without further incident. We had been lucky.
Since arrival we have been in Stockholm. I went to see the doctor on 22nd June to be diagnosed with bacterial pneumonia which explains my tiredness and tendency to sleep all the time. The pills I've been taking have now worked and I am recovering. that makes two escapes in rapid succession.
Saturday 25 June 2016
Stockholm Early Music Festival 2016
We arrived at the Festival Booking Office an hour early to be greeted very warmly by both Peter Pontvik the Festival Maestro and Anne Katerina, his principal assistant. In part it amuses them that we, who make the longest journey, arrived first; in part it is that we are faithful attendees and appreciative. We are part of the furniture.. We had been given very good reserved seats, much to our pleasure. It reduced considerably the amount of queuing and standing we had to do.
You can find the programme on the website www.semf.se. We always get a great deal of music for our money and most of it is excellent
You can find the programme on the website www.semf.se. We always get a great deal of music for our money and most of it is excellent
20 - 23rd May 2016 Fitting Out
Our journey across Europe had been hasty and a bit fraught with the Mercedes B giving all sorts of fault conditions from inoperative tyre pressure warning upward. We were now under time pressure to be in Stockholm by the First of June to collect our tickets for the Stockholm Music festival.
Our first task was to try to understand the new toilet system that had been installed; finished only just before we arrived. The system includes an electric toilet, a biggish holding tank, five operating valves and an emptying pump. It is a mass of valves and wiring. The engineer gave us a run through but we needed the boat launched before we could test it properly. In addition I had to put back an internal door and a lot of panelling and also to devise a shelf to disguise but not hinder access to the controls.
There were other major tasks to do before launch including stowing all the clothes and kit we had brought with us, unloading tools from the boat (used only in fitting out) to make room and the usual round of bottom painting, sea cock checking and we had three clear days to do it.
We did make it but are beginning to feel our ages and cannot as hard or as long as we used to do.
Launch, for once was at a civilized hour so we could breakfast at the hotel and have lunch at the catering school. The latter is working fine and still has super salads and home made bread. We also have gone back like homing pigeons to Kohiro, who still make superb suchi.
After launch was another familiar programme of fitting boom, mainsail, calpack, battens, reefing lines, greasing the Furlex system, fitting genoa, jib sheet ( we use just one, doubled).
In Darthaven chandlery I had bought on spec a can of magic spray intended to make sail raising easier. I applied it to the Furlex, mainmast and boom slots and to the relevant sail edges. I had no great faith in the product which appeared to be soapy water but it made raising the genoa much easier than usual and also fitting the main into the boom slot. Yes it definitely worked.
Finally we had to buy and stow food for the trip to Stockholm. The weather, previously good had turned cold and we had to rig our cockpit cover and to use thermals and the extra blankets in bed. The outside temperature dropped to less than 7C at night and the cabin temperature to 12 -3 C by morning. The next question was "when can we leave with a reasonable forecast?"
Our first task was to try to understand the new toilet system that had been installed; finished only just before we arrived. The system includes an electric toilet, a biggish holding tank, five operating valves and an emptying pump. It is a mass of valves and wiring. The engineer gave us a run through but we needed the boat launched before we could test it properly. In addition I had to put back an internal door and a lot of panelling and also to devise a shelf to disguise but not hinder access to the controls.
There were other major tasks to do before launch including stowing all the clothes and kit we had brought with us, unloading tools from the boat (used only in fitting out) to make room and the usual round of bottom painting, sea cock checking and we had three clear days to do it.
We did make it but are beginning to feel our ages and cannot as hard or as long as we used to do.
Launch, for once was at a civilized hour so we could breakfast at the hotel and have lunch at the catering school. The latter is working fine and still has super salads and home made bread. We also have gone back like homing pigeons to Kohiro, who still make superb suchi.
After launch was another familiar programme of fitting boom, mainsail, calpack, battens, reefing lines, greasing the Furlex system, fitting genoa, jib sheet ( we use just one, doubled).
In Darthaven chandlery I had bought on spec a can of magic spray intended to make sail raising easier. I applied it to the Furlex, mainmast and boom slots and to the relevant sail edges. I had no great faith in the product which appeared to be soapy water but it made raising the genoa much easier than usual and also fitting the main into the boom slot. Yes it definitely worked.
Finally we had to buy and stow food for the trip to Stockholm. The weather, previously good had turned cold and we had to rig our cockpit cover and to use thermals and the extra blankets in bed. The outside temperature dropped to less than 7C at night and the cabin temperature to 12 -3 C by morning. The next question was "when can we leave with a reasonable forecast?"
Monday 20 June 2016
29th - 31st May 2016 Nykoping to Trosa
We had a lovely Saturday evening with Martin and Maria at their home and arrived back at our boat on 29th May, dumping the car in the boat hall as usual. We had visited the Merc dealer earlier and had a tentative diagnosis of "failed brake operation sensor" which apparently would account for the symptoms.This was to be followed up in August before leaving for home.
We finally set off at 1020 motoring into a cold but gentle NE breeze and bound for Trosa. The sky was dull but we had sun after reaching Stendorran after about three hours. We were well wrapped up but the trip was tedious; the adverse wind slowed the boat and there was no point in even trying to sail.
I made a mess trying to moor between the posts at Trosa, not helped by a bowline coming undone, rammed the staging and bent the bow ladder. we ignominiously turned tail and moored side to in the river which was in any case more convenient. Worse was to come. We went to Fina Fisken for supper but were told it was closing early and was in any case fully booked because it was Ascension Day. Now Fina Fisken serves very good giant crab claws and similar delicacies so this was a severe blow.
We ate on board and set off early the next day for Sodertalje. The VHF forecast was very similar to the previous day; on the nose 5-10 metres/sec.( probably less inland). I was deprived of the internet as I'd failed to get the new "three" subscription to work.
However the day was a little warmer and sunny, giving better colours on shore. Spring was in full flow with enormous drifts of pollen everywhere; on the water looking alternately pretty or polluted depending on one's point of view and the state of one's hay fever. One ear had blocked up which is my form of hay fever which made communication difficult. We made it to Sodertalje without difficulty and found no staff there, there had been none in Trosa either. Helpful people in both places had given us the access codes to the toilets.
By this time we were beginning to understand toilet operation on-board though not the finer points and mistakes were frequent. We bought food in Sodertalje but did not much like the restaurants and ate on board.
31st May We started with a good slice of luck, motoring over to the lock waiting stage expecting a long delay but were admitted to the lock early and whisked through on our own. I really don't know why. It might have been to clear the lock for a commercial ship but it might just have been that the lock keeper was feeling kind. We have had nasty near misses in that lock, hence my wonderment.
Today the weather was definitely hot and we could shed a lot of clothing and enjoy the sun. The wind was still against us and we made reasonable progress through Maleren passing a motor boat towing what appeared to be a small garage.
We downlocked at Hammarby, cursing both the short hanging ropes and the requirement to used a card machine to pay for the experience. It is quite easy to lose a bank card this way, particularly if trying to hold a rope at the same time. It really is best to supply one's own warp and make it fast to the lack loops and less likely to lead to the boat drifting free.
We made it through Danviksbron with little delay and found Wasahamnen its usual welcoming self. We tied up greeted the on duty crew and mad our way to Blau Porten our favourite good weather restaurant very close to the harbour. They had a new dish on the menu, Boulaibaisse with a northern twist and wquite delicious. We were in Stockholm and in time for the Early Music Festival. However weh ad done no sailing at all and had motored for three days solid.
We finally set off at 1020 motoring into a cold but gentle NE breeze and bound for Trosa. The sky was dull but we had sun after reaching Stendorran after about three hours. We were well wrapped up but the trip was tedious; the adverse wind slowed the boat and there was no point in even trying to sail.
I made a mess trying to moor between the posts at Trosa, not helped by a bowline coming undone, rammed the staging and bent the bow ladder. we ignominiously turned tail and moored side to in the river which was in any case more convenient. Worse was to come. We went to Fina Fisken for supper but were told it was closing early and was in any case fully booked because it was Ascension Day. Now Fina Fisken serves very good giant crab claws and similar delicacies so this was a severe blow.
We ate on board and set off early the next day for Sodertalje. The VHF forecast was very similar to the previous day; on the nose 5-10 metres/sec.( probably less inland). I was deprived of the internet as I'd failed to get the new "three" subscription to work.
However the day was a little warmer and sunny, giving better colours on shore. Spring was in full flow with enormous drifts of pollen everywhere; on the water looking alternately pretty or polluted depending on one's point of view and the state of one's hay fever. One ear had blocked up which is my form of hay fever which made communication difficult. We made it to Sodertalje without difficulty and found no staff there, there had been none in Trosa either. Helpful people in both places had given us the access codes to the toilets.
By this time we were beginning to understand toilet operation on-board though not the finer points and mistakes were frequent. We bought food in Sodertalje but did not much like the restaurants and ate on board.
31st May We started with a good slice of luck, motoring over to the lock waiting stage expecting a long delay but were admitted to the lock early and whisked through on our own. I really don't know why. It might have been to clear the lock for a commercial ship but it might just have been that the lock keeper was feeling kind. We have had nasty near misses in that lock, hence my wonderment.
Today the weather was definitely hot and we could shed a lot of clothing and enjoy the sun. The wind was still against us and we made reasonable progress through Maleren passing a motor boat towing what appeared to be a small garage.
We downlocked at Hammarby, cursing both the short hanging ropes and the requirement to used a card machine to pay for the experience. It is quite easy to lose a bank card this way, particularly if trying to hold a rope at the same time. It really is best to supply one's own warp and make it fast to the lack loops and less likely to lead to the boat drifting free.
We made it through Danviksbron with little delay and found Wasahamnen its usual welcoming self. We tied up greeted the on duty crew and mad our way to Blau Porten our favourite good weather restaurant very close to the harbour. They had a new dish on the menu, Boulaibaisse with a northern twist and wquite delicious. We were in Stockholm and in time for the Early Music Festival. However weh ad done no sailing at all and had motored for three days solid.
23rd - 28th July 2015 Nynashamn to Trosa
23rd July - To Trosa
Up at 0600, breakfast and usual departure steps slipping at 0725. We were back tracking through the Nynashamn "wriggles" and then across more open waters to Trosa.
The forecast was of mild SW breezes with some rain and the weather was indeed very grey. I usually underestimate the time it takes to get through the wriggles and this was no exception. We missed the 0900 bridge opening and regrettably the waiting buoy was occupied so we had to hold position on the motor for about 15 minutes in the rain.
At the appointed hour a yellow jacket appeared with a red headed lady inside. She walked to the bridge, lowering the safety barriers on the road as she did so. She then opened up a tall cupboard on the bridge pavement and sundry bangs and grumbles indicated that the bridge was opening. In the meantime the boat lying to the buoy slipped, another boat appeared behind us and a boat lined up in the opposite direction to enter the wriggles but was positioned to come in through our exit - all a recipe for close encounters.
The bridge slowly swung open leaving two openings and the opposing yacht realised the bridge end was coming much too close and backed off, taking the correct side to enter. We left easily enough and shouted our thanks to the red head as we left.
The outlet channel led directly into wind so Kristin raised the main while we continued SW.
At the end of the channel, the rain stopped, we turned NW and unfurled the jib and sailed very contentedly across Svardsfjarden to the Rasholmen and Galklubb lights which together mark the main NS ship channel to Sodertalje. Ramsholmen light is mounted oddly on a sloping stalk that looks as if it had at some time been nudged by a ship. there being no ship to worry about we crossed the channel going east and now close hauled to go north of Knytnaven buoy into less used waters.
At this point the rain started again and visibility reduced considerably The plotter continued to work and we picked out the route between Doftskar and Doftskar Hallarna, about two cables apart. After a little while we found a southerly cardinal named Naggen and returned to the conventional route to Trosa. By this time the rain had stopped and we rolled up the jib
Up at 0600, breakfast and usual departure steps slipping at 0725. We were back tracking through the Nynashamn "wriggles" and then across more open waters to Trosa.
The forecast was of mild SW breezes with some rain and the weather was indeed very grey. I usually underestimate the time it takes to get through the wriggles and this was no exception. We missed the 0900 bridge opening and regrettably the waiting buoy was occupied so we had to hold position on the motor for about 15 minutes in the rain.
At the appointed hour a yellow jacket appeared with a red headed lady inside. She walked to the bridge, lowering the safety barriers on the road as she did so. She then opened up a tall cupboard on the bridge pavement and sundry bangs and grumbles indicated that the bridge was opening. In the meantime the boat lying to the buoy slipped, another boat appeared behind us and a boat lined up in the opposite direction to enter the wriggles but was positioned to come in through our exit - all a recipe for close encounters.
The bridge slowly swung open leaving two openings and the opposing yacht realised the bridge end was coming much too close and backed off, taking the correct side to enter. We left easily enough and shouted our thanks to the red head as we left.
The outlet channel led directly into wind so Kristin raised the main while we continued SW.
At the end of the channel, the rain stopped, we turned NW and unfurled the jib and sailed very contentedly across Svardsfjarden to the Rasholmen and Galklubb lights which together mark the main NS ship channel to Sodertalje. Ramsholmen light is mounted oddly on a sloping stalk that looks as if it had at some time been nudged by a ship. there being no ship to worry about we crossed the channel going east and now close hauled to go north of Knytnaven buoy into less used waters.
At this point the rain started again and visibility reduced considerably The plotter continued to work and we picked out the route between Doftskar and Doftskar Hallarna, about two cables apart. After a little while we found a southerly cardinal named Naggen and returned to the conventional route to Trosa. By this time the rain had stopped and we rolled up the jib
Journey Out 2016
We left home on May 12th for Nykoping and Badger, but had an interesting diversion to look at a mainly Elizabethan House in a hidden valley behind Sidmouth. Some of the buildings were from the 12th C. and very little was doen after the Elizabethan period when the present owner's family moved in. It was a lovely place and beautifully set.
From there we drove to Basingstoke for an overnight stay and then on to Dover for the midday ferry to Dunkirk. This part of the trip is always tedious but this one no worse than usual. We spent the night at "The Old House" in Veurne, one of our favourite haunts. I insisted on visiting a well known Steak Restaurant in Veurne called De Vette Os. The sausage starter was excellent but the terribly special Swiss steak was just like ordinary ones except for the price.
From there we had a fmiliar path via Oterloo and Carnegie Cottage where wewere welcomed as old friends to Luneburg and then to Lubeck where "Der Alten Stadtmauer" was its usual accommodating self. It too has joined the most modern era and equpped the bathroom with a slow close loo seat - such an odd but pervasive cliche. The food in Germany was good but unremarkable and we moved on to the Travemunde - Trelleborg ferry and the next morning drove on to Nykoping and Stjarnholm Slott where we stayed when preparing Badger for the summer.
Our only problem was keeping the car fridge going as I lost the mains power adaptor and had constantly to worry about draining the car battery. Happily all went well there.
From there we drove to Basingstoke for an overnight stay and then on to Dover for the midday ferry to Dunkirk. This part of the trip is always tedious but this one no worse than usual. We spent the night at "The Old House" in Veurne, one of our favourite haunts. I insisted on visiting a well known Steak Restaurant in Veurne called De Vette Os. The sausage starter was excellent but the terribly special Swiss steak was just like ordinary ones except for the price.
From there we had a fmiliar path via Oterloo and Carnegie Cottage where wewere welcomed as old friends to Luneburg and then to Lubeck where "Der Alten Stadtmauer" was its usual accommodating self. It too has joined the most modern era and equpped the bathroom with a slow close loo seat - such an odd but pervasive cliche. The food in Germany was good but unremarkable and we moved on to the Travemunde - Trelleborg ferry and the next morning drove on to Nykoping and Stjarnholm Slott where we stayed when preparing Badger for the summer.
Our only problem was keeping the car fridge going as I lost the mains power adaptor and had constantly to worry about draining the car battery. Happily all went well there.
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