We had a lovely Saturday evening with Martin and Maria at their home and arrived back at our boat on 29th May, dumping the car in the boat hall as usual. We had visited the Merc dealer earlier and had a tentative diagnosis of "failed brake operation sensor" which apparently would account for the symptoms.This was to be followed up in August before leaving for home.
We finally set off at 1020 motoring into a cold but gentle NE breeze and bound for Trosa. The sky was dull but we had sun after reaching Stendorran after about three hours. We were well wrapped up but the trip was tedious; the adverse wind slowed the boat and there was no point in even trying to sail.
I made a mess trying to moor between the posts at Trosa, not helped by a bowline coming undone, rammed the staging and bent the bow ladder. we ignominiously turned tail and moored side to in the river which was in any case more convenient. Worse was to come. We went to Fina Fisken for supper but were told it was closing early and was in any case fully booked because it was Ascension Day. Now Fina Fisken serves very good giant crab claws and similar delicacies so this was a severe blow.
We ate on board and set off early the next day for Sodertalje. The VHF forecast was very similar to the previous day; on the nose 5-10 metres/sec.( probably less inland). I was deprived of the internet as I'd failed to get the new "three" subscription to work.
However the day was a little warmer and sunny, giving better colours on shore. Spring was in full flow with enormous drifts of pollen everywhere; on the water looking alternately pretty or polluted depending on one's point of view and the state of one's hay fever. One ear had blocked up which is my form of hay fever which made communication difficult. We made it to Sodertalje without difficulty and found no staff there, there had been none in Trosa either. Helpful people in both places had given us the access codes to the toilets.
By this time we were beginning to understand toilet operation on-board though not the finer points and mistakes were frequent. We bought food in Sodertalje but did not much like the restaurants and ate on board.
31st May We started with a good slice of luck, motoring over to the lock waiting stage expecting a long delay but were admitted to the lock early and whisked through on our own. I really don't know why. It might have been to clear the lock for a commercial ship but it might just have been that the lock keeper was feeling kind. We have had nasty near misses in that lock, hence my wonderment.
Today the weather was definitely hot and we could shed a lot of clothing and enjoy the sun. The wind was still against us and we made reasonable progress through Maleren passing a motor boat towing what appeared to be a small garage.
We downlocked at Hammarby, cursing both the short hanging ropes and the requirement to used a card machine to pay for the experience. It is quite easy to lose a bank card this way, particularly if trying to hold a rope at the same time. It really is best to supply one's own warp and make it fast to the lack loops and less likely to lead to the boat drifting free.
We made it through Danviksbron with little delay and found Wasahamnen its usual welcoming self. We tied up greeted the on duty crew and mad our way to Blau Porten our favourite good weather restaurant very close to the harbour. They had a new dish on the menu, Boulaibaisse with a northern twist and wquite delicious. We were in Stockholm and in time for the Early Music Festival. However weh ad done no sailing at all and had motored for three days solid.
Monday, 20 June 2016
23rd - 28th July 2015 Nynashamn to Trosa
23rd July - To Trosa
Up at 0600, breakfast and usual departure steps slipping at 0725. We were back tracking through the Nynashamn "wriggles" and then across more open waters to Trosa.
The forecast was of mild SW breezes with some rain and the weather was indeed very grey. I usually underestimate the time it takes to get through the wriggles and this was no exception. We missed the 0900 bridge opening and regrettably the waiting buoy was occupied so we had to hold position on the motor for about 15 minutes in the rain.
At the appointed hour a yellow jacket appeared with a red headed lady inside. She walked to the bridge, lowering the safety barriers on the road as she did so. She then opened up a tall cupboard on the bridge pavement and sundry bangs and grumbles indicated that the bridge was opening. In the meantime the boat lying to the buoy slipped, another boat appeared behind us and a boat lined up in the opposite direction to enter the wriggles but was positioned to come in through our exit - all a recipe for close encounters.
The bridge slowly swung open leaving two openings and the opposing yacht realised the bridge end was coming much too close and backed off, taking the correct side to enter. We left easily enough and shouted our thanks to the red head as we left.
The outlet channel led directly into wind so Kristin raised the main while we continued SW.
At the end of the channel, the rain stopped, we turned NW and unfurled the jib and sailed very contentedly across Svardsfjarden to the Rasholmen and Galklubb lights which together mark the main NS ship channel to Sodertalje. Ramsholmen light is mounted oddly on a sloping stalk that looks as if it had at some time been nudged by a ship. there being no ship to worry about we crossed the channel going east and now close hauled to go north of Knytnaven buoy into less used waters.
At this point the rain started again and visibility reduced considerably The plotter continued to work and we picked out the route between Doftskar and Doftskar Hallarna, about two cables apart. After a little while we found a southerly cardinal named Naggen and returned to the conventional route to Trosa. By this time the rain had stopped and we rolled up the jib
Up at 0600, breakfast and usual departure steps slipping at 0725. We were back tracking through the Nynashamn "wriggles" and then across more open waters to Trosa.
The forecast was of mild SW breezes with some rain and the weather was indeed very grey. I usually underestimate the time it takes to get through the wriggles and this was no exception. We missed the 0900 bridge opening and regrettably the waiting buoy was occupied so we had to hold position on the motor for about 15 minutes in the rain.
At the appointed hour a yellow jacket appeared with a red headed lady inside. She walked to the bridge, lowering the safety barriers on the road as she did so. She then opened up a tall cupboard on the bridge pavement and sundry bangs and grumbles indicated that the bridge was opening. In the meantime the boat lying to the buoy slipped, another boat appeared behind us and a boat lined up in the opposite direction to enter the wriggles but was positioned to come in through our exit - all a recipe for close encounters.
The bridge slowly swung open leaving two openings and the opposing yacht realised the bridge end was coming much too close and backed off, taking the correct side to enter. We left easily enough and shouted our thanks to the red head as we left.
The outlet channel led directly into wind so Kristin raised the main while we continued SW.
At the end of the channel, the rain stopped, we turned NW and unfurled the jib and sailed very contentedly across Svardsfjarden to the Rasholmen and Galklubb lights which together mark the main NS ship channel to Sodertalje. Ramsholmen light is mounted oddly on a sloping stalk that looks as if it had at some time been nudged by a ship. there being no ship to worry about we crossed the channel going east and now close hauled to go north of Knytnaven buoy into less used waters.
At this point the rain started again and visibility reduced considerably The plotter continued to work and we picked out the route between Doftskar and Doftskar Hallarna, about two cables apart. After a little while we found a southerly cardinal named Naggen and returned to the conventional route to Trosa. By this time the rain had stopped and we rolled up the jib
Journey Out 2016
We left home on May 12th for Nykoping and Badger, but had an interesting diversion to look at a mainly Elizabethan House in a hidden valley behind Sidmouth. Some of the buildings were from the 12th C. and very little was doen after the Elizabethan period when the present owner's family moved in. It was a lovely place and beautifully set.
From there we drove to Basingstoke for an overnight stay and then on to Dover for the midday ferry to Dunkirk. This part of the trip is always tedious but this one no worse than usual. We spent the night at "The Old House" in Veurne, one of our favourite haunts. I insisted on visiting a well known Steak Restaurant in Veurne called De Vette Os. The sausage starter was excellent but the terribly special Swiss steak was just like ordinary ones except for the price.
From there we had a fmiliar path via Oterloo and Carnegie Cottage where wewere welcomed as old friends to Luneburg and then to Lubeck where "Der Alten Stadtmauer" was its usual accommodating self. It too has joined the most modern era and equpped the bathroom with a slow close loo seat - such an odd but pervasive cliche. The food in Germany was good but unremarkable and we moved on to the Travemunde - Trelleborg ferry and the next morning drove on to Nykoping and Stjarnholm Slott where we stayed when preparing Badger for the summer.
Our only problem was keeping the car fridge going as I lost the mains power adaptor and had constantly to worry about draining the car battery. Happily all went well there.
From there we drove to Basingstoke for an overnight stay and then on to Dover for the midday ferry to Dunkirk. This part of the trip is always tedious but this one no worse than usual. We spent the night at "The Old House" in Veurne, one of our favourite haunts. I insisted on visiting a well known Steak Restaurant in Veurne called De Vette Os. The sausage starter was excellent but the terribly special Swiss steak was just like ordinary ones except for the price.
From there we had a fmiliar path via Oterloo and Carnegie Cottage where wewere welcomed as old friends to Luneburg and then to Lubeck where "Der Alten Stadtmauer" was its usual accommodating self. It too has joined the most modern era and equpped the bathroom with a slow close loo seat - such an odd but pervasive cliche. The food in Germany was good but unremarkable and we moved on to the Travemunde - Trelleborg ferry and the next morning drove on to Nykoping and Stjarnholm Slott where we stayed when preparing Badger for the summer.
Our only problem was keeping the car fridge going as I lost the mains power adaptor and had constantly to worry about draining the car battery. Happily all went well there.
Wednesday, 5 August 2015
23rd - 28th July 2015 Nynashamn to Trosa
23rd July
With a forecast of light SW breezes and rain worsening later, we got up at 0600, breakfasted and made ready, leaving at 0725. We motored south through a deserted Gardsfjarden in dry but dull weather. In Nynasviken we were overtaken by a bigger yacht and were happy to follow her through Dragets canal once again. As usual I had underestimated the time needed and we missed the 0900 opening of the Tottnas bridge. However we'd missed it handsomely and had only about 15 mins. wait in the rain for the1000 opening. At the appointed time a yellow jacket marched into view which covered a red headed lady who remotely lowered the road barriers as she approached the bridge. On the bridge she opened an equipment box and we heard bangs as latches were loosened and the bridge started to swing open. In the meantime a yacht on our side quit the mooring buoy, a second boat came up from behind and another yacht approaching from the south prepared to come through the wrong opening; all in all a situation was developing. We hung back a little, the opening bridge got very close to the approaching boat which finally realised its error and crossed over to the correct side in a hurry. We went through without problems, thanking the redhead for her work.
We were now headed directly into wind in the lead between Liso and Svardso and Kristin raised the main. We motored sw into clear water and thankfully the rain stopped.
Once out into Svardsfjarden we turned WNW and had a very pleasant little sail to Ramsholmen light.
Now Ramsholmen and Galklubb lights define the main shipping route up to Sodertalje so we looked around cautiously before crossing it into less travelled water, hardening up onto a westerly course.
At this point the rain returned and visibility correspondingly reduced. However the plotter was still operating and we made for the gap between Knytnaven and Aspskargrund buoys. ( I do love some of the buoy names). We could then make out the gap between Dofskar and its hallarna about two cables apart and then proceeded to a southerly cardinal named Naggen before joining the conventional route to Trosa, and went on to lower sails in calm water before going upriver to the harbour there. We found the harbour quite full and distinctly disconcerting. We had prepared for stern buoy moorings but found they had substituted box moorings during the winter. Box moorings are a line of piles about a boats length from the quay. You are expected to drop a bowline over each post as you enter the mooring. We, however, made for a gap between two other boats, secured the bow and then with help from a neighbour put a loop round one of the posts and later used a long boathook to drop a bowline over the other.
The harbour master seemed not to understand box moorings properly as he had equipped each post with a conventional loop as used on the quay itself. A wooden hook, to stop the loop falling down would have been far more useful.
We plugged into the electrical supply and yet again put up our plastic sheet to keep the rain away from cockpit and cabin. We were to stay for several days in Trosa avoiding or enduring a string of depressions.
Our friends Martin and Maria, by way of contras,t made a heroic passage through Myssingen in a series of tacks that lasted six hours. It is not something we like doing any more.
Another unwelcome change in Trosa was the disappearance of the fish shop and smokery from the shop arcade near the harbour. There is still a smoked fish stall about a mile and a half away next to a large ICA supermarket.
We ate out once at the open air restaurant beside the river. this had both good service and cooking but its coffee was deplorable. Nevertheless we would go back there. Fina fisken looked a bit boring last time we looked at the menu but it is right back on form and we ate there twice. My dish of half a large crab and a couple of giant crab legs, together with sauces, was excellent and so was Kristins shell fish platter with half a lobster, half a crab, giant crab leg, mussels and shrimps was at least as good, thoroughly recommended.
With a forecast of light SW breezes and rain worsening later, we got up at 0600, breakfasted and made ready, leaving at 0725. We motored south through a deserted Gardsfjarden in dry but dull weather. In Nynasviken we were overtaken by a bigger yacht and were happy to follow her through Dragets canal once again. As usual I had underestimated the time needed and we missed the 0900 opening of the Tottnas bridge. However we'd missed it handsomely and had only about 15 mins. wait in the rain for the1000 opening. At the appointed time a yellow jacket marched into view which covered a red headed lady who remotely lowered the road barriers as she approached the bridge. On the bridge she opened an equipment box and we heard bangs as latches were loosened and the bridge started to swing open. In the meantime a yacht on our side quit the mooring buoy, a second boat came up from behind and another yacht approaching from the south prepared to come through the wrong opening; all in all a situation was developing. We hung back a little, the opening bridge got very close to the approaching boat which finally realised its error and crossed over to the correct side in a hurry. We went through without problems, thanking the redhead for her work.
We were now headed directly into wind in the lead between Liso and Svardso and Kristin raised the main. We motored sw into clear water and thankfully the rain stopped.
Once out into Svardsfjarden we turned WNW and had a very pleasant little sail to Ramsholmen light.
Now Ramsholmen and Galklubb lights define the main shipping route up to Sodertalje so we looked around cautiously before crossing it into less travelled water, hardening up onto a westerly course.
At this point the rain returned and visibility correspondingly reduced. However the plotter was still operating and we made for the gap between Knytnaven and Aspskargrund buoys. ( I do love some of the buoy names). We could then make out the gap between Dofskar and its hallarna about two cables apart and then proceeded to a southerly cardinal named Naggen before joining the conventional route to Trosa, and went on to lower sails in calm water before going upriver to the harbour there. We found the harbour quite full and distinctly disconcerting. We had prepared for stern buoy moorings but found they had substituted box moorings during the winter. Box moorings are a line of piles about a boats length from the quay. You are expected to drop a bowline over each post as you enter the mooring. We, however, made for a gap between two other boats, secured the bow and then with help from a neighbour put a loop round one of the posts and later used a long boathook to drop a bowline over the other.
The harbour master seemed not to understand box moorings properly as he had equipped each post with a conventional loop as used on the quay itself. A wooden hook, to stop the loop falling down would have been far more useful.
We plugged into the electrical supply and yet again put up our plastic sheet to keep the rain away from cockpit and cabin. We were to stay for several days in Trosa avoiding or enduring a string of depressions.
Our friends Martin and Maria, by way of contras,t made a heroic passage through Myssingen in a series of tacks that lasted six hours. It is not something we like doing any more.
Another unwelcome change in Trosa was the disappearance of the fish shop and smokery from the shop arcade near the harbour. There is still a smoked fish stall about a mile and a half away next to a large ICA supermarket.
We ate out once at the open air restaurant beside the river. this had both good service and cooking but its coffee was deplorable. Nevertheless we would go back there. Fina fisken looked a bit boring last time we looked at the menu but it is right back on form and we ate there twice. My dish of half a large crab and a couple of giant crab legs, together with sauces, was excellent and so was Kristins shell fish platter with half a lobster, half a crab, giant crab leg, mussels and shrimps was at least as good, thoroughly recommended.
Sunday, 2 August 2015
20th-22nd July Sodertalje to Nynashamn
At Sodertalje we ate mostly on Badger as most of the restaurants looked poor or worse. we visited the Main church again to find it distinctly redeveloped and though expensively refurbished, some of the changes were for the worse. In particular, most of the grave slabs in front of the main altar have been removed and some have been put in inconspicuous places. We are incensed because two of the slabs are of considerable historic interest as they were for a man who was a barber and another a tanner. Neither trade would have entitled a man to a place next to the altar in the 17th.C in Sweden.
20th July
Rather late departure as we had to prepare the boat, stow the tant and El cable etc. We also decided to get more food and buy a new weather station which should be easier to fit at the masthead, so got away only at 1115 after having filled with water and diesel.
We motored south to Skansholmen and moored in sunlight at 1310. On the way we'd encountered various very fast moving motor boats with no manners who had rolled us dreadfully.
Skansholmen is an interesting place. It is now mainly a private caravan site and a marina with two restaurants, neither of which appealed. It does have fuel, water and electricity, none very conveniently and a shop which sells very little of interest. The caravan site was once a fort guarding the way into Lake Malaren but little remains for the untutored visitor. The stately homes in the are were destroyed in 1719 by the Russian wrath but were quickly rebuilt. The area is rich farmland.
21st July
Our purpose was to reach Nynashamn to meet up with Martin and Maria. Up at 0500 because we expected heavy rain in the afternoon. We motored south in very light SW breeze and took the opportunity to find out how best to tow the dinghy to minimise drag. We found that the boat's speed did not change whether we had the dinghy towing loop hooked directly to the stern cleat or out at the full length of the towing line or at intermediat distances. It is conceivable that an even longer line might be better but not very likely. In any case a very long towing line would be much more likely to cause problems both in harbour and at sea.
Note:- We later found when examining the dinghy, no damage from the exhaust gasses and light soot fouling only.
We made our way through the wriggles ( archipelago west of Nynashamn) with only one incident. We were lining up to go through Dragets canal and had checked that no mast was coming our way when suddenly a small motorboat appeared. We had to do a hasty 360 degree turn to avoid it and then went through, enjoying the scenery and overhanging trees.
We arrived in Nynashamn at 1115 and moored, putting the tent up at once because of rain threatening and went off to lunch at the smokery on the harbour quay. As expected, it was excellent.
We duly mad contact with Martin and Maria, neither of us immediately recognising each others boats and We had a delicious dinner with them on their boat in the evening.
We did not accompany them to Brunnsviken mainly because of the threat of a lot of unpleasant wether in the following few days. They had to make the journey because at Brunnsviken they knew an engineer whou could sort out a tricky problem with their masthead light.
For us it was the wrong way to go and we do not like Myssingen ( the big open stretch of water NE of Nynashamn ) in bad weather). It was a pity as we very much like their company.
22nd July
In indifferent weather we stayed in Nynashamn, buying food and doing a few chores. The weather looked reaonable for the 23rd so we made ready for a bolt to Trosa to sit out the next lot of bad weather soon to follow.
20th July
Rather late departure as we had to prepare the boat, stow the tant and El cable etc. We also decided to get more food and buy a new weather station which should be easier to fit at the masthead, so got away only at 1115 after having filled with water and diesel.
We motored south to Skansholmen and moored in sunlight at 1310. On the way we'd encountered various very fast moving motor boats with no manners who had rolled us dreadfully.
Skansholmen is an interesting place. It is now mainly a private caravan site and a marina with two restaurants, neither of which appealed. It does have fuel, water and electricity, none very conveniently and a shop which sells very little of interest. The caravan site was once a fort guarding the way into Lake Malaren but little remains for the untutored visitor. The stately homes in the are were destroyed in 1719 by the Russian wrath but were quickly rebuilt. The area is rich farmland.
21st July
Our purpose was to reach Nynashamn to meet up with Martin and Maria. Up at 0500 because we expected heavy rain in the afternoon. We motored south in very light SW breeze and took the opportunity to find out how best to tow the dinghy to minimise drag. We found that the boat's speed did not change whether we had the dinghy towing loop hooked directly to the stern cleat or out at the full length of the towing line or at intermediat distances. It is conceivable that an even longer line might be better but not very likely. In any case a very long towing line would be much more likely to cause problems both in harbour and at sea.
Note:- We later found when examining the dinghy, no damage from the exhaust gasses and light soot fouling only.
We made our way through the wriggles ( archipelago west of Nynashamn) with only one incident. We were lining up to go through Dragets canal and had checked that no mast was coming our way when suddenly a small motorboat appeared. We had to do a hasty 360 degree turn to avoid it and then went through, enjoying the scenery and overhanging trees.
We arrived in Nynashamn at 1115 and moored, putting the tent up at once because of rain threatening and went off to lunch at the smokery on the harbour quay. As expected, it was excellent.
We duly mad contact with Martin and Maria, neither of us immediately recognising each others boats and We had a delicious dinner with them on their boat in the evening.
We did not accompany them to Brunnsviken mainly because of the threat of a lot of unpleasant wether in the following few days. They had to make the journey because at Brunnsviken they knew an engineer whou could sort out a tricky problem with their masthead light.
For us it was the wrong way to go and we do not like Myssingen ( the big open stretch of water NE of Nynashamn ) in bad weather). It was a pity as we very much like their company.
22nd July
In indifferent weather we stayed in Nynashamn, buying food and doing a few chores. The weather looked reaonable for the 23rd so we made ready for a bolt to Trosa to sit out the next lot of bad weather soon to follow.
Sunday, 19 July 2015
16th to 19th July 2015 Stockholm to Sodertalje
Thursday 16th July
We were aware of thunderstorms approaching later in the day but had to delay our departure as I needed to get to a "3" store to get my broad-band subscription re-activated. I amanaged this by 1000, bought some strawberries in Hogtorget market and rushed back to Badger. We'd been uncertain about leaving becase of the forecast but decided to go to Lake Malaren anyway as this seemed to be a weather window. We had to disconnect the electrical lead, stow the bow ladder, pack away cockpit tent and say good bye to Leif and all the Wasahamnen crew. We did manage to leave by 1115 and made for Danviks bridge through the usual intense ferry traffic. Approaching the bridge we had two fast ferries to starboard and a third picking up passenges in a position that obstructed access to the bridge. However the bridge was signalling it was about to open so we crept along the starboard side of the channel, propelled only by a light easterly breeze. The bridge opened slowly and I needed it well open it hinges upwards from the starboard side. A great rush of ferries and motorboats poured past the bridge followed by masted boats in a great scrum, while w had to move to port into their paths to avoid the bridge. We survived this, just and prceeded toward Hammarby lock. On the way are some superb blocks of flats in one of which lives Our friend Helena and her husband so we gave a wave and then turned to look at the moored boats we were passing.
There are tug, old ferries and even a small cargo ship turned into house boats and they look comfortable - at least in summer. There is also a big Viking ship, now turned into a Thai restaurant; an unlikely alliance I feel.
The Hammarby lock opened quite quickly and we were soon through and proceeding through odd outer suburbs. On one side was a fine hospital overlooking amenity gardens (allotments) with little huts. On the other was a rocky forest. More modern flats followed and a bridge or two and then a bathing house. Its surprising it still exists. Next comes a cement factory and more housing.
By now I was getting worried by our low motoring speed. We were going directly into a westerly breeze though. Kristin found the towing load of the dinghy was immense,but it was some time before the penny dropped. We had had a lot of rain in Stockholm so the dinghy had a lot of water. I stopped in a "clear" part of Malaren so of course various work boats appeared and headed for us. I managed to get the dink alongside and hook out the bung in the stern. We then resumed motoring and the speed increased as the dinghy drained itself. Speed was still lower than I would like and I have to experiment by towing on longer lines. Yes long lines make for nasty situations when one has to reverse unexpectedly.
We motored westwards through Lake Malaren with little incident except that the breeze slowly strengthened against us and and lightning flickered to the south.
The crisis came as we emerged from the last narrow passage into the big stretch of open water leading down to Sodertalje. By now lightning was visible from the tail of a cloud dead ahead and a large purply black cloud extended north and east of us with heavy rain underneath.
Suddenly a westerly squall hit slowing us down severely. It got quite dark and small cresting waves were everywhere. I considered turning back but Badger was plodding slowly on; about 2 kts. over the ground.
Morover we were not being rained on. We plodded on and Badger' speed gradually rose. In a little while we were able to turn a little to the south and speed increased more. After about half an hour in all the squall had ceased, the sun had come out again and the sea had become lumpy and uncomfortable. However were soon in some shelter from the hills to the west and our problems were over.
We motored south through natural channel and canal sections till we reached the lock, locked through and found a berth in the Sodertalje marina.
We have stayed here because heavy rain and moderately high winds against us make it no fun to go on.
Our present plan is to leave on Tuesday, making for Naynashamn and then on to Brunnsviken on Orno to meet with Martin and Maria Morris
We were aware of thunderstorms approaching later in the day but had to delay our departure as I needed to get to a "3" store to get my broad-band subscription re-activated. I amanaged this by 1000, bought some strawberries in Hogtorget market and rushed back to Badger. We'd been uncertain about leaving becase of the forecast but decided to go to Lake Malaren anyway as this seemed to be a weather window. We had to disconnect the electrical lead, stow the bow ladder, pack away cockpit tent and say good bye to Leif and all the Wasahamnen crew. We did manage to leave by 1115 and made for Danviks bridge through the usual intense ferry traffic. Approaching the bridge we had two fast ferries to starboard and a third picking up passenges in a position that obstructed access to the bridge. However the bridge was signalling it was about to open so we crept along the starboard side of the channel, propelled only by a light easterly breeze. The bridge opened slowly and I needed it well open it hinges upwards from the starboard side. A great rush of ferries and motorboats poured past the bridge followed by masted boats in a great scrum, while w had to move to port into their paths to avoid the bridge. We survived this, just and prceeded toward Hammarby lock. On the way are some superb blocks of flats in one of which lives Our friend Helena and her husband so we gave a wave and then turned to look at the moored boats we were passing.
There are tug, old ferries and even a small cargo ship turned into house boats and they look comfortable - at least in summer. There is also a big Viking ship, now turned into a Thai restaurant; an unlikely alliance I feel.
The Hammarby lock opened quite quickly and we were soon through and proceeding through odd outer suburbs. On one side was a fine hospital overlooking amenity gardens (allotments) with little huts. On the other was a rocky forest. More modern flats followed and a bridge or two and then a bathing house. Its surprising it still exists. Next comes a cement factory and more housing.
By now I was getting worried by our low motoring speed. We were going directly into a westerly breeze though. Kristin found the towing load of the dinghy was immense,but it was some time before the penny dropped. We had had a lot of rain in Stockholm so the dinghy had a lot of water. I stopped in a "clear" part of Malaren so of course various work boats appeared and headed for us. I managed to get the dink alongside and hook out the bung in the stern. We then resumed motoring and the speed increased as the dinghy drained itself. Speed was still lower than I would like and I have to experiment by towing on longer lines. Yes long lines make for nasty situations when one has to reverse unexpectedly.
We motored westwards through Lake Malaren with little incident except that the breeze slowly strengthened against us and and lightning flickered to the south.
The crisis came as we emerged from the last narrow passage into the big stretch of open water leading down to Sodertalje. By now lightning was visible from the tail of a cloud dead ahead and a large purply black cloud extended north and east of us with heavy rain underneath.
Suddenly a westerly squall hit slowing us down severely. It got quite dark and small cresting waves were everywhere. I considered turning back but Badger was plodding slowly on; about 2 kts. over the ground.
Morover we were not being rained on. We plodded on and Badger' speed gradually rose. In a little while we were able to turn a little to the south and speed increased more. After about half an hour in all the squall had ceased, the sun had come out again and the sea had become lumpy and uncomfortable. However were soon in some shelter from the hills to the west and our problems were over.
We motored south through natural channel and canal sections till we reached the lock, locked through and found a berth in the Sodertalje marina.
We have stayed here because heavy rain and moderately high winds against us make it no fun to go on.
Our present plan is to leave on Tuesday, making for Naynashamn and then on to Brunnsviken on Orno to meet with Martin and Maria Morris
8th to 15th July 2015 Stockholm
We stayed in Wasahamnen, Stockholm for more than a week, partly because of strongish winds but mainly because we like Stockholm, its museums, restaurants and so on. We revisited Waldermarsudde and enjoyed two of the artists having special exhibitions there and also visited Skansen open air museum, mainly to see the Nordic animals. Between us we saw an Eagle Owl ( yes they have one in Totnes I know), wolves, brown bears, a lynx, elk and wolverines. The zoo now has a good collection of young wolverines, very active and interesting, and obviously superb fur.
We made plans to leave early on 16th July but were foiled when my broad-band subscription ran out in the evening of the 15th and I could not work out how to enter the required code number to reactivate it. I also knew from previous experience that after 20 mins. trying I would get fairly permanently cut off.
We made plans to leave early on 16th July but were foiled when my broad-band subscription ran out in the evening of the 15th and I could not work out how to enter the required code number to reactivate it. I also knew from previous experience that after 20 mins. trying I would get fairly permanently cut off.
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