Wednesday 7 June 2017

Nyoping to Stockholm 27th to 28th May 2017

We left our berth in Nykoping backwards and kept going in reverse out of the harbour. The wind was westerly and the route out of the berth was westerly as well. Badger's bow tends to go downwind so going backwards is the easy option even though steering is uncertain. Out in clear water we opened up the jib and set of east and northeast in bright sun The forecast had been for southerly breezes but we got west veering northwest and decreasing. We motor sailed and took the chance to try increasing engine revs above the previous practiaal maximum of 2400 rpm. Anything above that tended to lead to ever increasing engine temperature until I took fright and lowered the engine speed again. This time we managed 2600 rpm without problems. Clearly the new thermostat was being helpful. Unfortunately the noise level was up also but we needed to make progress. Ideally we should be in Stockholm in two days as the Stockholm Early Music Festival started on the 1st of June.
The sail from Nykoping to Sweden is always beautiful and today was no exception. Although the wind was feeble and gradually becoming adverse the sun was hot. Indeed it was so hot that Kristin had to take a spell in the cabin to cool down and rest. The scenery was at its best with new paler green leaves to enjoy and great drifts of silver birch pollen on the water. It made tiny clumps up to a centimetre in diameter and pale yellowish green in colour. As the boat's wash touched the patches they sank and made clouds in the water. Pilotage here is intricate and needs attention even though we know the area well.
We were passed by another sailing boat which went ahead and to our starboard side. We were approaching a tricky passage between two islands where the passage indicated by two towers at the the adjacent ends. The boat appeared to be directly in line with that passage. Unfortunately the marks are deceptive as a large flat rock lies just below the surface in front of the space between the islands. One must head considerably to the port side of the shore marks where there are two inconspicuous but essential buoys to lead the boat on a big dog-leg. We used our fog horn and pointed and eventually the other boat changed course much to our relief.
We continued on....and on and on enjoying the scenery and more interesting pilotage. Eventually we reached a marina at Skansholmen, rather run down but ok for an overnight stop and rather tires, ate on board and went to bed. Our day's run was 36.5 miles.
28th May
Woke early and headed up the long inlet leading to Sodertalje. As it is a route for big ships we have to watch out astern as well as ahead as big ships cannot leave the deep water route and usually have tight schedules involving locks and harbour berths. Approaching Sodertalje we were passed by a touriststeamer that crosses Sweden and also found a big freighter ahead of her. We followed them up to the lock and waited. Oddly enough we, together with other leisure craft were calle dearly for th elock opening at 0915 rather than the usual 0930. We guessed that they needed the 0930 slot for something large and so got rid of us early.
a few hundred metres after the lock is an opening bridge. Badger is sufficiently small to slip underneath the closed bridge and there is always a guilty pleasure in being able to get away from a larger boat that has to wait for the opening. This day too was sunny and we motor sailed again. This part of Lake Malaren is lovely too but closer to the city the water is constantly cut up by fast motor boats which makes for a very rough and tiring ride. We were glad to get to the Hammarby lock  and near our journeys end. This lock is a pain. very short ropes hang down from the lock side and one is expected to steady the boat by holding onto them and combat the water surging through the lock. At the same time one is required to insert a credit card into a portable machine an punch in the pin-code; which also requires two hands. It really is not much fun. We survived and poodled towards another opening bridge called Danviksbron. Life was further complicated because huge construction work at Slussen in the centre of Stockholm has seriously hampered local rail traffic so many more busses are needed and Danviksbron only opens once per hour. a Period we spent tied up to a stone wall being bounced by incessant motor boat traffic.
We had discovered on the way that Wasahamnen, our destination was hosting alarge meeting of vinntage boats so worried if there would be room for us. There was and we tied up, pausing to admire really lovely vintage motor boats with very fine lines before greeting friends from former years. We had arrived in time and were able to relax after two hard days motoring and several more days of preparatory work before that. We were comfortably in time for the Music Festival.

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