8th to 15th June Stockholm

Monday 8th June
Missing our concerts, we had chores to do. Kristin washed clothes in Wasahamnen's machines which include a superfast commercial dryer. I dipped the fuel tank looking for diesel bug, dosed with Fuelset and refilled the tank from cans. I then replaced the fluid in the gearbox but had to bodge up a flexible connector out of rubbaweld tape as the original rubber connector on the hand pump had hardened and split with age and oil.
I also had to buy a small cycle pump to inflate a new and better bow fender.
Coming in bows on to landing stages a small misjudgement can mean a lot of gel-coat repairing.
Kristin needed to get routine blood tests done which has become a pain. The previous commercial operation no longer does them and it's suggested replacement requires a letter from a Swedish doctor. In the end the marina staff found the answer, a private hospital some distance away. Even then we had to visit three places before getting "served" and even then numerous conversations had to take place. Also the price had doubled and I had to go back the following day to get the results.
Just for relief I took this pic of Viburnums by the marina to prove to Nick there are infestations of them in Sweden too.
Tuesday 9th June
To Waldermarsudde (Prince Eugen's small palace) for lunch (good) and to an exhibition of Emil Nolde pictures. Nolde is a German/Danish Impressionist. We'd previously seen mainly his pictures of pre-war German cafe society which show his dislike of it. He also painted incredibly bright pictures ( called "colour storms" by other painters). We found these works wonderful. No pics for this page sorry. He also painted gentler coast and sea pictures. The exhibition was a revelation and we bought the catalogue.
The weather at this point was warm and sunny.
We had had the marina crew, Haakon, Taina, Janne, Helene, Tomas to have evening drinks and had a very pleasant evening. Tomas was off the next day for an operation but expects to take his very large yacht to the Carribean soon with Taina and Janne.
Wednesday 10th June
To Lilyvalch's Gallery to see marvellous sculpture exhibition of work by Hertha Hilfon ( 1921 - 2013). Now Lilyvalchs puts on some seriously wierd exhibitions and this was definitely not one of those. Hertha works in clay, mainly in slabs. Her work has some of the monumentality of Elizabeth Frink but also some fantasy.  The work is very large and some pieces were fired in separate chunks and reassembled afterwards. The exhibition was well staged with two rooms having as background, large photos of her house and courtyard. In a new policy for this gallery they are charging only 10 krona for entry. It must have been very expensive to stage, if only because the pieces are so heavy.
We had dinner in Gamla Stan at a Japanese restaurant.
Thursday 11th June
Good weather, rather wasted as we spent a long time arranging a sailing cruise around the Pelopenese in October. We were invited to lunch by Helena in her apartment in Sodermalm overlooking the route to and from Hamarby lock. The apartment is beautiful and has the most amazing views.
Friday 12th June
Visit to Sven Harry Museum in the north west of Stockholm. This disinctly modern building has a reconstruction of Sven Harry's country house complete with his collection of paintings and sculptures. It was an interesting idea but not in fact very impressive in appearance.
The museum also had a pleasant exhibition of 18th C domestic interiors with the usual dmestic tasks.
We also discovered a branch of Melanders fish restaurant and had a very good light lunch at a reasonable price. We also resolved to go there again.
Saturday 13th June
Domestic tasks and watched the arrival of a dozen large Grand Banks Motorboats for a rally. They appeared to do very little, sadly.
Sunday 14th June
To Fotographiska for lunch and three exhibitions:-
a. East African wildlife by Nick Brandt. Black and white close up pics of big game including lions and elephants. I don't know how he survived this. It was a lament for the slaughter of the animals annd depressing..
b. Photos by the Nordic  impressionist Anders Zorn, who seems to have been a dubious character with uncertain taste in his etchings but he has done lovely paintings.
c. A very corrupt feeling set of mainly fashion pics.
That evening we were off to western Sodermalm somewhere near where Alice and family stayed for a concert organised by a Japanese lady we knew from the Music Festival. This took place in an old country house rather marooned in the middle of blocks of flats. It also has a pleasant cafe with staff in period costume. The recital, harpsichord, violin and flute was good and the surroundings impressive. Our festival friend Derk had urged us to go and it was good advice.
At the end of the recital a large man in leather trousers and fancy dress stood in the only exit door and held fourth in Swedish about the house. We managed to find an exit through the artists dressing room and crept out shamelessly. That evening to Sambo Rombon for a rather disappointing dinner.
Monday 15th June
To Sabis supermarket for very large quantity of food. As we were early most of the staff were busy filling shelves so help was difficult to find and we had long queues at the checkout. Back to boat by taxi.
We said our good byes at the marina and were off in good weather towards Malma kvarn hoping that chef Johan would be there.
Our first stage, Stockholm harbour and the lead south to Baggenstacket were uneventful motoring with some assistance from a westerly breeze. We stopped to take on fuel and found after filling that one of the cans had a broken cap. We had to buy a another can and transfer fuel rather messily as the can dribbled.
There is always some anxiety as the canal is narrow, curving and used by big ferries and moderate sized ships. We had no problems in the event and unfurled the jib on gaining clear water.
We then had a simply lovely sail, downwind in a moderate breeze with Badger touching  seven knots from time to time. Our course was south easterly, we were reasonably warm and we thought summer had arrived.
Our route down Baggens fjard, Agnofjard and Ingarofjard is reasonably wide and with few hazards  so we are able to enjoy the sailing, particularly as we had a route plotted.
We continued into more open water passing the wonderfully named Klacknasgrynnan beacon and onto a route trnding northwest and well marked. It was only after turning north after Kofoten that we had to furl the jib and motor the last two miles to Malma kvarn. there was then plenty of room to moor in good shelter.