Tuesday 3 June 2014

Sodertalje to Stockholm

1st June
We slipped at 0800 and motored out of the marina, across the channel to the waiting quay below the lock, anticipating competition for space. Today was the first time lock should open at 0830. We waited in the sunlight watching for signs of activity. At 0830 there was a very quiet anouncement on the loudspeaker and immediately the bridge began to open for us. We hurriedly untied, started the engine and motored in somewhat panicked as the lock keepers here do tend to act hastily and without care. In fact we were allowed to tie up without problems and the lock cycled just for us - no competion at all. We motored out into another cutting and under a bridge which makeds for an awkward wait for bigger boats but we slip uner it nicely. The water then widens out to display the two boatyards of the Sodertalje boat club. It really is a well found club and it also posseses an island as well. The last canal section follows, again entrance is controlled by lights which were white. Here are more boatyards full of old projects some f which do eventually come to completion. There seems to be an inexhaustible supply of boats for sheltered waters, tugs, ferries, fishing boats and the like. One of the harbour masters in Stockholm has just taken his large wooden fishing boat into dry dock to check the condition of the planking, fit anodes etc. He has a team of freinds to help him get the job done in the week he is allowed.
Beyond the canal the water widens again, looking lovely with high banks covered in houses clinging to every knobble of rock. Building here means serious work, blasting, excavation even getting materials on site presents challenges. The wind was more or less Ne so we raised the jib which helped a little. The lake Malaren is large and open at this point with long views and good cloudscape to enjoy as we continued under autohelm. All too soon we changed course to the east into narrower channels and lost the wind, reverting to motor. Here there is considerable development with grand houses on the northern side, a stable complex and of course powerlines to worry about. Later are wider waters, more housing a ferry system and gradually Stockholm suburbs, punctuated by grand old Victorian era houses, big cliffs and forests, all very agreeable.
Later the city closes about us as we run down towards Hammarby lock past blcks of flats, some well made, others ugly, under various bridges.
The lock opened promptly letting us in with a number of power and sail boats and charging SEK 160 (£16) for doing so. We were ejected into a very nw suburb full of prestige flats but with a replica Viking boat ( now a Thai restaurant) for company. We had to manouvre about for ten minutes before the last bridge would open but were then free to enter Stockholm harbour. Here the water is always rough with the passage of large fast ferries, so best passed through quickly.
Familiar sights greet us, particularly the ancient dock crane painted to look like a giraffe and then the immense and gaudy Grona Lund funfair, full of mechanical emtics in full operation and at last Wasahamnen, our home for the next week or so where we were greeted by someone unknown before we had reached a berth. It is good to be back here and we should enjoy Stockholm immensely.

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