Today we are at Mariehamn, Aaland Islands and have been here for several days. I reported last from Stockholm and we had our customary feast of exhibitions and Art Galleries together with a superb concert.
We left Stockholm motoring out through the harbour with the water cut up by large numbers of fast craft - it was worse than the Solent in August. We made for the middle Skaergard and the island of Gallno. Here we found an enclosed lake and a fair amount of privacy. There were a few yachts tied up to rocks at some distance away. We anchored happily in 2 metres of water.
Incidentally you can follow most of our track uing gogle Earth though not all the islands are mentioned there.
The next day we wriggled north through to an almost deserted part of the Skaergard, put the jib up and sailed very gently in warm sun first east then north to eventually emerge onto a major north south route for medium size craft where again we ambled north. Between the islands of Blido and Yxlan we lost the wind but gained it in spades as we emerged onto the main NE ship channel. Badger at 6kts. on jib alone was quite exciting and we reefed the jib to regain control. We ended the day in Kappellskar. This harbour has dry toilets and one tap but also very good shelter for a quite wild night.
The next morning we reefed the main and set of up the ship channel with very little company and found conditions good although the reef was needed. Ok the decision was made - too good a sailing day to waste so off to the Aalands.
This longish sail 44 miles made the autohelm necessary. Last year it was a pain and impossible to get good performance. This time I gave it some thought - and several threats - and managed to get it to work as well as its predecessor. This made foor a very relaxed passage - in bright sun doing 4.5 to 5.5 kts. and having the best day so far this year. We stowed the jib at the long wriggle up to Mariehamn east and motored up to the marina. We found it nearly empty, as most of the harbours have been.
In the harbour office we found my new EHIC european health insurance card. I took it and myself off to the hospital next day where I was told I had got Borelia (Lymes disease). I got this from a tick bite in the Nykoping boatyard which is not the sort of place I thought risky. It took just one set of bites. I'm feeling well but having to take 3 grams of Amoxycillin a day for 14 days - a heroic dose I think.
In the mean time we have attached midsummer pole raising which was a most hazardous affair. and done a lot of work on Badger's teak ork. The weather continues good though a gale is promised for tomorrow.
This is written with rather cold fingers in the shade but outside where I can get wifi. I find it difficult to see the screen in the bright light so mistakes will abound.
I should say that the northern light is amazing bright, clear and somehow cold even in the evenings. It is quite wonderful and yet a little austere.
Love to you all,
Roger and Kristin
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