Leaving Norrtalje early we had a following breeze but a large veer was expected after a few hours. We failed to sail in almost no wind so motored to Graddo by which time the wind had turned and we could comfortably sail on the jib. We were going well as we approached the ferry terminal at Kapellskar but slightly concerned that the Viking Line ferry at the dock was making smoke, and at just the wrong moment it started to move. While concentrating on this ferry a second one, a DFDS one called Liverpool somthing, appeared coming into the dock. After contemplating making a run for it I lost my bottle, started the engine and turned away. We eventually got past Kapellskar and started down the main shipping track towards Furusund. We were again saling pleasantly when we were passed by Mariella, another Viking ferry moving very quickly with a great deal of water spouting forward above her bulbous bow. The wake she made was prodigous and rolled us very badly. She was clearly moving at more than the speed limit of twelve knots. Rather wounded by this we limped into Furusund for the night while Kristin managed to buy some veg at the poor supermarket there.
Next morning we moved to Hogmarso for the night and enjoyed dinner at the restaurant.
Monday 6th July
We decided to move to Blido guest harbour as the island had long
interested me. We motored round and stopped at 59N38.2, 18E55.3. The
harbour uses stern buys, has neither electriciyt nor water on the pontoon
and the toilet block is some distance away. We had a rather poor lunch
at the Vardhus, which has a surprisingly good wine list, perhaps a
remnant of better times. There was no information available about the
island and the road looked unappealing. Blido has many summer homes for
the rich so maybe the poor facilities are deliberate.
We departed
south to Finhamn Paradiset in bright sun with a following breeze and had
a simply lovely sail. We used the jib only getting 4 - 6 kts. and
enjoyed the scattered islands and the good marking of the wriggly
channel. The chart indicates that information of the regions either side
of the channel are not particularly well surveyed but he islands there
look enticing. We arrived to find the Paradiset anchorage crowded but
anchored happily at 59N28.73, 18E48.58 in about 5 metres of water.
Paradiset
is always quiet even when crowded and the surrounding shores are
lovely. The Skaergard Stiftelsen have provided many dry toilets and
these are well maintained. We made one journey ashore to walk to the
shop enjoying as always the woods and pastures along the way. We saw no
deer this time. We stayed two nights largely in sunshine and relaxed.
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