23rd July
With a forecast of light SW breezes and rain worsening later, we got up at 0600, breakfasted and made ready, leaving at 0725. We motored south through a deserted Gardsfjarden in dry but dull weather. In Nynasviken we were overtaken by a bigger yacht and were happy to follow her through Dragets canal once again. As usual I had underestimated the time needed and we missed the 0900 opening of the Tottnas bridge. However we'd missed it handsomely and had only about 15 mins. wait in the rain for the1000 opening. At the appointed time a yellow jacket marched into view which covered a red headed lady who remotely lowered the road barriers as she approached the bridge. On the bridge she opened an equipment box and we heard bangs as latches were loosened and the bridge started to swing open. In the meantime a yacht on our side quit the mooring buoy, a second boat came up from behind and another yacht approaching from the south prepared to come through the wrong opening; all in all a situation was developing. We hung back a little, the opening bridge got very close to the approaching boat which finally realised its error and crossed over to the correct side in a hurry. We went through without problems, thanking the redhead for her work.
We were now headed directly into wind in the lead between Liso and Svardso and Kristin raised the main. We motored sw into clear water and thankfully the rain stopped.
Once out into Svardsfjarden we turned WNW and had a very pleasant little sail to Ramsholmen light.
Now Ramsholmen and Galklubb lights define the main shipping route up to Sodertalje so we looked around cautiously before crossing it into less travelled water, hardening up onto a westerly course.
At this point the rain returned and visibility correspondingly reduced. However the plotter was still operating and we made for the gap between Knytnaven and Aspskargrund buoys. ( I do love some of the buoy names). We could then make out the gap between Dofskar and its hallarna about two cables apart and then proceeded to a southerly cardinal named Naggen before joining the conventional route to Trosa, and went on to lower sails in calm water before going upriver to the harbour there. We found the harbour quite full and distinctly disconcerting. We had prepared for stern buoy moorings but found they had substituted box moorings during the winter. Box moorings are a line of piles about a boats length from the quay. You are expected to drop a bowline over each post as you enter the mooring. We, however, made for a gap between two other boats, secured the bow and then with help from a neighbour put a loop round one of the posts and later used a long boathook to drop a bowline over the other.
The harbour master seemed not to understand box moorings properly as he had equipped each post with a conventional loop as used on the quay itself. A wooden hook, to stop the loop falling down would have been far more useful.
We plugged into the electrical supply and yet again put up our plastic sheet to keep the rain away from cockpit and cabin. We were to stay for several days in Trosa avoiding or enduring a string of depressions.
Our friends Martin and Maria, by way of contras,t made a heroic passage through Myssingen in a series of tacks that lasted six hours. It is not something we like doing any more.
Another unwelcome change in Trosa was the disappearance of the fish shop and smokery from the shop arcade near the harbour. There is still a smoked fish stall about a mile and a half away next to a large ICA supermarket.
We ate out once at the open air restaurant beside the river. this had both good service and cooking but its coffee was deplorable. Nevertheless we would go back there. Fina fisken looked a bit boring last time we looked at the menu but it is right back on form and we ate there twice. My dish of half a large crab and a couple of giant crab legs, together with sauces, was excellent and so was Kristins shell fish platter with half a lobster, half a crab, giant crab leg, mussels and shrimps was at least as good, thoroughly recommended.
Wednesday 5 August 2015
Sunday 2 August 2015
20th-22nd July Sodertalje to Nynashamn
At Sodertalje we ate mostly on Badger as most of the restaurants looked poor or worse. we visited the Main church again to find it distinctly redeveloped and though expensively refurbished, some of the changes were for the worse. In particular, most of the grave slabs in front of the main altar have been removed and some have been put in inconspicuous places. We are incensed because two of the slabs are of considerable historic interest as they were for a man who was a barber and another a tanner. Neither trade would have entitled a man to a place next to the altar in the 17th.C in Sweden.
20th July
Rather late departure as we had to prepare the boat, stow the tant and El cable etc. We also decided to get more food and buy a new weather station which should be easier to fit at the masthead, so got away only at 1115 after having filled with water and diesel.
We motored south to Skansholmen and moored in sunlight at 1310. On the way we'd encountered various very fast moving motor boats with no manners who had rolled us dreadfully.
Skansholmen is an interesting place. It is now mainly a private caravan site and a marina with two restaurants, neither of which appealed. It does have fuel, water and electricity, none very conveniently and a shop which sells very little of interest. The caravan site was once a fort guarding the way into Lake Malaren but little remains for the untutored visitor. The stately homes in the are were destroyed in 1719 by the Russian wrath but were quickly rebuilt. The area is rich farmland.
21st July
Our purpose was to reach Nynashamn to meet up with Martin and Maria. Up at 0500 because we expected heavy rain in the afternoon. We motored south in very light SW breeze and took the opportunity to find out how best to tow the dinghy to minimise drag. We found that the boat's speed did not change whether we had the dinghy towing loop hooked directly to the stern cleat or out at the full length of the towing line or at intermediat distances. It is conceivable that an even longer line might be better but not very likely. In any case a very long towing line would be much more likely to cause problems both in harbour and at sea.
Note:- We later found when examining the dinghy, no damage from the exhaust gasses and light soot fouling only.
We made our way through the wriggles ( archipelago west of Nynashamn) with only one incident. We were lining up to go through Dragets canal and had checked that no mast was coming our way when suddenly a small motorboat appeared. We had to do a hasty 360 degree turn to avoid it and then went through, enjoying the scenery and overhanging trees.
We arrived in Nynashamn at 1115 and moored, putting the tent up at once because of rain threatening and went off to lunch at the smokery on the harbour quay. As expected, it was excellent.
We duly mad contact with Martin and Maria, neither of us immediately recognising each others boats and We had a delicious dinner with them on their boat in the evening.
We did not accompany them to Brunnsviken mainly because of the threat of a lot of unpleasant wether in the following few days. They had to make the journey because at Brunnsviken they knew an engineer whou could sort out a tricky problem with their masthead light.
For us it was the wrong way to go and we do not like Myssingen ( the big open stretch of water NE of Nynashamn ) in bad weather). It was a pity as we very much like their company.
22nd July
In indifferent weather we stayed in Nynashamn, buying food and doing a few chores. The weather looked reaonable for the 23rd so we made ready for a bolt to Trosa to sit out the next lot of bad weather soon to follow.
20th July
Rather late departure as we had to prepare the boat, stow the tant and El cable etc. We also decided to get more food and buy a new weather station which should be easier to fit at the masthead, so got away only at 1115 after having filled with water and diesel.
We motored south to Skansholmen and moored in sunlight at 1310. On the way we'd encountered various very fast moving motor boats with no manners who had rolled us dreadfully.
Skansholmen is an interesting place. It is now mainly a private caravan site and a marina with two restaurants, neither of which appealed. It does have fuel, water and electricity, none very conveniently and a shop which sells very little of interest. The caravan site was once a fort guarding the way into Lake Malaren but little remains for the untutored visitor. The stately homes in the are were destroyed in 1719 by the Russian wrath but were quickly rebuilt. The area is rich farmland.
21st July
Our purpose was to reach Nynashamn to meet up with Martin and Maria. Up at 0500 because we expected heavy rain in the afternoon. We motored south in very light SW breeze and took the opportunity to find out how best to tow the dinghy to minimise drag. We found that the boat's speed did not change whether we had the dinghy towing loop hooked directly to the stern cleat or out at the full length of the towing line or at intermediat distances. It is conceivable that an even longer line might be better but not very likely. In any case a very long towing line would be much more likely to cause problems both in harbour and at sea.
Note:- We later found when examining the dinghy, no damage from the exhaust gasses and light soot fouling only.
We made our way through the wriggles ( archipelago west of Nynashamn) with only one incident. We were lining up to go through Dragets canal and had checked that no mast was coming our way when suddenly a small motorboat appeared. We had to do a hasty 360 degree turn to avoid it and then went through, enjoying the scenery and overhanging trees.
We arrived in Nynashamn at 1115 and moored, putting the tent up at once because of rain threatening and went off to lunch at the smokery on the harbour quay. As expected, it was excellent.
We duly mad contact with Martin and Maria, neither of us immediately recognising each others boats and We had a delicious dinner with them on their boat in the evening.
We did not accompany them to Brunnsviken mainly because of the threat of a lot of unpleasant wether in the following few days. They had to make the journey because at Brunnsviken they knew an engineer whou could sort out a tricky problem with their masthead light.
For us it was the wrong way to go and we do not like Myssingen ( the big open stretch of water NE of Nynashamn ) in bad weather). It was a pity as we very much like their company.
22nd July
In indifferent weather we stayed in Nynashamn, buying food and doing a few chores. The weather looked reaonable for the 23rd so we made ready for a bolt to Trosa to sit out the next lot of bad weather soon to follow.
Sunday 19 July 2015
16th to 19th July 2015 Stockholm to Sodertalje
Thursday 16th July
We were aware of thunderstorms approaching later in the day but had to delay our departure as I needed to get to a "3" store to get my broad-band subscription re-activated. I amanaged this by 1000, bought some strawberries in Hogtorget market and rushed back to Badger. We'd been uncertain about leaving becase of the forecast but decided to go to Lake Malaren anyway as this seemed to be a weather window. We had to disconnect the electrical lead, stow the bow ladder, pack away cockpit tent and say good bye to Leif and all the Wasahamnen crew. We did manage to leave by 1115 and made for Danviks bridge through the usual intense ferry traffic. Approaching the bridge we had two fast ferries to starboard and a third picking up passenges in a position that obstructed access to the bridge. However the bridge was signalling it was about to open so we crept along the starboard side of the channel, propelled only by a light easterly breeze. The bridge opened slowly and I needed it well open it hinges upwards from the starboard side. A great rush of ferries and motorboats poured past the bridge followed by masted boats in a great scrum, while w had to move to port into their paths to avoid the bridge. We survived this, just and prceeded toward Hammarby lock. On the way are some superb blocks of flats in one of which lives Our friend Helena and her husband so we gave a wave and then turned to look at the moored boats we were passing.
There are tug, old ferries and even a small cargo ship turned into house boats and they look comfortable - at least in summer. There is also a big Viking ship, now turned into a Thai restaurant; an unlikely alliance I feel.
The Hammarby lock opened quite quickly and we were soon through and proceeding through odd outer suburbs. On one side was a fine hospital overlooking amenity gardens (allotments) with little huts. On the other was a rocky forest. More modern flats followed and a bridge or two and then a bathing house. Its surprising it still exists. Next comes a cement factory and more housing.
By now I was getting worried by our low motoring speed. We were going directly into a westerly breeze though. Kristin found the towing load of the dinghy was immense,but it was some time before the penny dropped. We had had a lot of rain in Stockholm so the dinghy had a lot of water. I stopped in a "clear" part of Malaren so of course various work boats appeared and headed for us. I managed to get the dink alongside and hook out the bung in the stern. We then resumed motoring and the speed increased as the dinghy drained itself. Speed was still lower than I would like and I have to experiment by towing on longer lines. Yes long lines make for nasty situations when one has to reverse unexpectedly.
We motored westwards through Lake Malaren with little incident except that the breeze slowly strengthened against us and and lightning flickered to the south.
The crisis came as we emerged from the last narrow passage into the big stretch of open water leading down to Sodertalje. By now lightning was visible from the tail of a cloud dead ahead and a large purply black cloud extended north and east of us with heavy rain underneath.
Suddenly a westerly squall hit slowing us down severely. It got quite dark and small cresting waves were everywhere. I considered turning back but Badger was plodding slowly on; about 2 kts. over the ground.
Morover we were not being rained on. We plodded on and Badger' speed gradually rose. In a little while we were able to turn a little to the south and speed increased more. After about half an hour in all the squall had ceased, the sun had come out again and the sea had become lumpy and uncomfortable. However were soon in some shelter from the hills to the west and our problems were over.
We motored south through natural channel and canal sections till we reached the lock, locked through and found a berth in the Sodertalje marina.
We have stayed here because heavy rain and moderately high winds against us make it no fun to go on.
Our present plan is to leave on Tuesday, making for Naynashamn and then on to Brunnsviken on Orno to meet with Martin and Maria Morris
We were aware of thunderstorms approaching later in the day but had to delay our departure as I needed to get to a "3" store to get my broad-band subscription re-activated. I amanaged this by 1000, bought some strawberries in Hogtorget market and rushed back to Badger. We'd been uncertain about leaving becase of the forecast but decided to go to Lake Malaren anyway as this seemed to be a weather window. We had to disconnect the electrical lead, stow the bow ladder, pack away cockpit tent and say good bye to Leif and all the Wasahamnen crew. We did manage to leave by 1115 and made for Danviks bridge through the usual intense ferry traffic. Approaching the bridge we had two fast ferries to starboard and a third picking up passenges in a position that obstructed access to the bridge. However the bridge was signalling it was about to open so we crept along the starboard side of the channel, propelled only by a light easterly breeze. The bridge opened slowly and I needed it well open it hinges upwards from the starboard side. A great rush of ferries and motorboats poured past the bridge followed by masted boats in a great scrum, while w had to move to port into their paths to avoid the bridge. We survived this, just and prceeded toward Hammarby lock. On the way are some superb blocks of flats in one of which lives Our friend Helena and her husband so we gave a wave and then turned to look at the moored boats we were passing.
There are tug, old ferries and even a small cargo ship turned into house boats and they look comfortable - at least in summer. There is also a big Viking ship, now turned into a Thai restaurant; an unlikely alliance I feel.
The Hammarby lock opened quite quickly and we were soon through and proceeding through odd outer suburbs. On one side was a fine hospital overlooking amenity gardens (allotments) with little huts. On the other was a rocky forest. More modern flats followed and a bridge or two and then a bathing house. Its surprising it still exists. Next comes a cement factory and more housing.
By now I was getting worried by our low motoring speed. We were going directly into a westerly breeze though. Kristin found the towing load of the dinghy was immense,but it was some time before the penny dropped. We had had a lot of rain in Stockholm so the dinghy had a lot of water. I stopped in a "clear" part of Malaren so of course various work boats appeared and headed for us. I managed to get the dink alongside and hook out the bung in the stern. We then resumed motoring and the speed increased as the dinghy drained itself. Speed was still lower than I would like and I have to experiment by towing on longer lines. Yes long lines make for nasty situations when one has to reverse unexpectedly.
We motored westwards through Lake Malaren with little incident except that the breeze slowly strengthened against us and and lightning flickered to the south.
The crisis came as we emerged from the last narrow passage into the big stretch of open water leading down to Sodertalje. By now lightning was visible from the tail of a cloud dead ahead and a large purply black cloud extended north and east of us with heavy rain underneath.
Suddenly a westerly squall hit slowing us down severely. It got quite dark and small cresting waves were everywhere. I considered turning back but Badger was plodding slowly on; about 2 kts. over the ground.
Morover we were not being rained on. We plodded on and Badger' speed gradually rose. In a little while we were able to turn a little to the south and speed increased more. After about half an hour in all the squall had ceased, the sun had come out again and the sea had become lumpy and uncomfortable. However were soon in some shelter from the hills to the west and our problems were over.
We motored south through natural channel and canal sections till we reached the lock, locked through and found a berth in the Sodertalje marina.
We have stayed here because heavy rain and moderately high winds against us make it no fun to go on.
Our present plan is to leave on Tuesday, making for Naynashamn and then on to Brunnsviken on Orno to meet with Martin and Maria Morris
8th to 15th July 2015 Stockholm
We stayed in Wasahamnen, Stockholm for more than a week, partly because of strongish winds but mainly because we like Stockholm, its museums, restaurants and so on. We revisited Waldermarsudde and enjoyed two of the artists having special exhibitions there and also visited Skansen open air museum, mainly to see the Nordic animals. Between us we saw an Eagle Owl ( yes they have one in Totnes I know), wolves, brown bears, a lynx, elk and wolverines. The zoo now has a good collection of young wolverines, very active and interesting, and obviously superb fur.
We made plans to leave early on 16th July but were foiled when my broad-band subscription ran out in the evening of the 15th and I could not work out how to enter the required code number to reactivate it. I also knew from previous experience that after 20 mins. trying I would get fairly permanently cut off.
We made plans to leave early on 16th July but were foiled when my broad-band subscription ran out in the evening of the 15th and I could not work out how to enter the required code number to reactivate it. I also knew from previous experience that after 20 mins. trying I would get fairly permanently cut off.
Sunday 12 July 2015
6-8th July 2015 Paradiset to Ingmarso and Stockholm
The forecast on 6th was for high winds and rain so we made for Ingmarso, which was crowded and took one of the outer berths. This was not very desirable but the alternative was approached down a narrowing wedge of water and the departure would have been difficult and possibly embarrassing. We duly got rain and wind, right on the stern. We then had the difficult job of keeping Badger's bow just off the pontoon so allowing us to get ashore while attached by a tape to a buoy. The tape inevitably stretched during the gusts and we found our newly acquired bow fender useful in avoiding damage to Badger's very fine bow. We did manage to get showers, have meals at the good restaurant with Paul and Marylin of Starship Sirius and to walk a little on the beautiful tracks on the island.
Late on the 7th we reckoned we had found a small weather window the following morning so planned for a very early departure.
8th July
Up at 0400 and away at 0430. We had offered to say good bye to Paul and Marylin when we left but they merely shuddered. The weather was calm but drizzly, basically half right. We motored off into simply lovely waters and the rain stopped. We made good progress west to the north of Gallno and from there were on familiar territory with virtually no other boats moving. In the very open stretches NE of Vaxholm the light was good if gray and the scenes were very beautiful indeed.
However at Vaxholm itself the rain began again, visbility dropped abruptly and we began to seevery large ferries on the approach to Stockholm. The latter part of the trip was a matter of keeping going, trying to keep dry and watching fore and aft for big ships, two of which passed close by us on their way in to Stockholm. We arrived at 0949 after a trip of 27 miles and found a berth at Wasahamnen.
We plugged into shore power before all the sockets were taken, put up our plastic cover so the cockpit and our clothing could dry out and relaxed.
During the morning and afternoon, more and more boats arrived at a very full harbour, moved up and down the channels between the moored boats and pushed off again. Yet again we had gained by getting up early.
Late on the 7th we reckoned we had found a small weather window the following morning so planned for a very early departure.
8th July
Up at 0400 and away at 0430. We had offered to say good bye to Paul and Marylin when we left but they merely shuddered. The weather was calm but drizzly, basically half right. We motored off into simply lovely waters and the rain stopped. We made good progress west to the north of Gallno and from there were on familiar territory with virtually no other boats moving. In the very open stretches NE of Vaxholm the light was good if gray and the scenes were very beautiful indeed.
However at Vaxholm itself the rain began again, visbility dropped abruptly and we began to seevery large ferries on the approach to Stockholm. The latter part of the trip was a matter of keeping going, trying to keep dry and watching fore and aft for big ships, two of which passed close by us on their way in to Stockholm. We arrived at 0949 after a trip of 27 miles and found a berth at Wasahamnen.
We plugged into shore power before all the sockets were taken, put up our plastic cover so the cockpit and our clothing could dry out and relaxed.
During the morning and afternoon, more and more boats arrived at a very full harbour, moved up and down the channels between the moored boats and pushed off again. Yet again we had gained by getting up early.
Saturday 11 July 2015
Hogmarso, Blido Paradiset
Leaving Norrtalje early we had a following breeze but a large veer was expected after a few hours. We failed to sail in almost no wind so motored to Graddo by which time the wind had turned and we could comfortably sail on the jib. We were going well as we approached the ferry terminal at Kapellskar but slightly concerned that the Viking Line ferry at the dock was making smoke, and at just the wrong moment it started to move. While concentrating on this ferry a second one, a DFDS one called Liverpool somthing, appeared coming into the dock. After contemplating making a run for it I lost my bottle, started the engine and turned away. We eventually got past Kapellskar and started down the main shipping track towards Furusund. We were again saling pleasantly when we were passed by Mariella, another Viking ferry moving very quickly with a great deal of water spouting forward above her bulbous bow. The wake she made was prodigous and rolled us very badly. She was clearly moving at more than the speed limit of twelve knots. Rather wounded by this we limped into Furusund for the night while Kristin managed to buy some veg at the poor supermarket there.
Next morning we moved to Hogmarso for the night and enjoyed dinner at the restaurant.
Monday 6th July
We decided to move to Blido guest harbour as the island had long interested me. We motored round and stopped at 59N38.2, 18E55.3. The harbour uses stern buys, has neither electriciyt nor water on the pontoon and the toilet block is some distance away. We had a rather poor lunch at the Vardhus, which has a surprisingly good wine list, perhaps a remnant of better times. There was no information available about the island and the road looked unappealing. Blido has many summer homes for the rich so maybe the poor facilities are deliberate.
We departed south to Finhamn Paradiset in bright sun with a following breeze and had a simply lovely sail. We used the jib only getting 4 - 6 kts. and enjoyed the scattered islands and the good marking of the wriggly channel. The chart indicates that information of the regions either side of the channel are not particularly well surveyed but he islands there look enticing. We arrived to find the Paradiset anchorage crowded but anchored happily at 59N28.73, 18E48.58 in about 5 metres of water.
Paradiset is always quiet even when crowded and the surrounding shores are lovely. The Skaergard Stiftelsen have provided many dry toilets and these are well maintained. We made one journey ashore to walk to the shop enjoying as always the woods and pastures along the way. We saw no deer this time. We stayed two nights largely in sunshine and relaxed.
Next morning we moved to Hogmarso for the night and enjoyed dinner at the restaurant.
Monday 6th July
We decided to move to Blido guest harbour as the island had long interested me. We motored round and stopped at 59N38.2, 18E55.3. The harbour uses stern buys, has neither electriciyt nor water on the pontoon and the toilet block is some distance away. We had a rather poor lunch at the Vardhus, which has a surprisingly good wine list, perhaps a remnant of better times. There was no information available about the island and the road looked unappealing. Blido has many summer homes for the rich so maybe the poor facilities are deliberate.
We departed south to Finhamn Paradiset in bright sun with a following breeze and had a simply lovely sail. We used the jib only getting 4 - 6 kts. and enjoyed the scattered islands and the good marking of the wriggly channel. The chart indicates that information of the regions either side of the channel are not particularly well surveyed but he islands there look enticing. We arrived to find the Paradiset anchorage crowded but anchored happily at 59N28.73, 18E48.58 in about 5 metres of water.
Paradiset is always quiet even when crowded and the surrounding shores are lovely. The Skaergard Stiftelsen have provided many dry toilets and these are well maintained. We made one journey ashore to walk to the shop enjoying as always the woods and pastures along the way. We saw no deer this time. We stayed two nights largely in sunshine and relaxed.
4th July 2015 Hogmarso to Norrtalje.
We needed to visit Norrtalje for medical reasons so set off early motor sailing with light SW breeze to Revnas but an opposing breeze in the Norrtalje funnel. I made for the Vard Centrale which had treated me for Erysepalos ( sic) three years ago as one of the antibiotics used had not only cured the disease it was treating but also seems to have more or less cured the skin problem on my legs that has troubled me for at least forty years.After the customary waits and struggles with the bureaucracy I was allowed to see a very competent nurse who gave the details of the drug used. This will be of considerable help to my skin specialist. It also confirms the view of my GP that many cases of skin problems in infants can be cured by antibiotics.The weather at this point was extremely hot so walking a couple of miles to the surgery was tiring. Kristin had a considerable problem getting routine blood tests here. The system has changed since last year and nobody at the Vard Cantrale she attended had any idea what to do. After shuttling between hospital A & E, blood test centre and Vard Centrale Kristin eventually got the required tests.but only after seeing a doctor. In all the process took more tan two hours of which five minutes were spent taking the blood. We found Norrtalje itself as pleasant as ever. The marina is no better protected from Easterly storms than before and there are insufficient toilets. It is run by ProMarina - of course.
We left after two days for Hogmarso.
We left after two days for Hogmarso.
1st July 2015 Furusund to Hogmarso
We made the short transfer from Furusund (59N39.6, 18E55.2) to Hogmarso (59N38.8, 18E52.7) for amusements, food buying and to see how the restaurant was performing. We were pleased to find the Dragon headed Chinese restaurant still there but a little disappointed to find the whole shipyard rather tidier with fewer interesting oddities. We did manage to find an operating toilet though, a great triumph. We found the ICA supermarket rather low on stock, but then it has been a bad season weatherwise so presumably there are fewer people holidaying on the island. The restaurant is back on form and there is less emphasis on music and more on the food. We did need blankets when dining outside as the temperature in the evening was a little low for our comfort. As always, most of the pontoons are fendered and mooring is free.Some of the pontoon floats are decrepit, the concrete outer skin having dropped off leaving only the reinforcing rods to contain the polystyrene filling.
Tuesday 7 July 2015
30th June 2015 Mariehamn to Furusund
Tuesday 30th June
We decided to cross back to Sweden as we seemed to have a good weather window but delayed somewhat in order to get more fuel. However I dipped the tank and realised we had ample for the next few days so left the marina rather late at 0820 in a northerwesterly breeze that was expected to veer. We hoisted the main with one reef and headed south out to sea. Near the Nyhom light we unfurled the jib and made course for the main entry into the Swedish archipelago at Tjaarvern Light. We could only just lay the course initially, partly because of a distinctly lumpy sea with intersecting swells from different directions. However the wind veered and increased, making life easier because of the wind freeing and more difficult as the boat became harder to control with the Autohelm being unable to keep the boat on track. We proceeded with reluctance on my part, gradually to reduce jib size by one reef and eventually by three, each time Badger steered more esily and the speed remained high usually at six knots. This is a lesson I am very reluctant to learn, feeling that the boat should be steered on her ear.
The wind was coolish but the sun was comfortingly warm. The lumpy seas made it difficult to move about with the result that I was unwilling to risk reefing the mainsail with the necessary out of cockpit activities.
We reached archipelago entrance with great relief and relaxed as the swell disappeared. We continued sailing on much the same course as far as Furusund where we stopped for the night.
The Furusund Marina is now owned by Promarina who have improved the pontoons but not the showers and toilets which are inadequate for the numbers visiting. Under the previous management the marina had an excellent little cafe serving good lunches; now one can get ice-creams and possibly a hot dog. In addition the local supermarket is poor and the only restaurant is expensive and cooks badly. Nonetheless we enjoyed on-board cooking and a warm evening.
We decided to cross back to Sweden as we seemed to have a good weather window but delayed somewhat in order to get more fuel. However I dipped the tank and realised we had ample for the next few days so left the marina rather late at 0820 in a northerwesterly breeze that was expected to veer. We hoisted the main with one reef and headed south out to sea. Near the Nyhom light we unfurled the jib and made course for the main entry into the Swedish archipelago at Tjaarvern Light. We could only just lay the course initially, partly because of a distinctly lumpy sea with intersecting swells from different directions. However the wind veered and increased, making life easier because of the wind freeing and more difficult as the boat became harder to control with the Autohelm being unable to keep the boat on track. We proceeded with reluctance on my part, gradually to reduce jib size by one reef and eventually by three, each time Badger steered more esily and the speed remained high usually at six knots. This is a lesson I am very reluctant to learn, feeling that the boat should be steered on her ear.
The wind was coolish but the sun was comfortingly warm. The lumpy seas made it difficult to move about with the result that I was unwilling to risk reefing the mainsail with the necessary out of cockpit activities.
We reached archipelago entrance with great relief and relaxed as the swell disappeared. We continued sailing on much the same course as far as Furusund where we stopped for the night.
The Furusund Marina is now owned by Promarina who have improved the pontoons but not the showers and toilets which are inadequate for the numbers visiting. Under the previous management the marina had an excellent little cafe serving good lunches; now one can get ice-creams and possibly a hot dog. In addition the local supermarket is poor and the only restaurant is expensive and cooks badly. Nonetheless we enjoyed on-board cooking and a warm evening.
Monday 6 July 2015
27th to 29th June 2015 at Mariehamn
Saturday 27th June
Saturday morning was time for shopping. First to ALKO to buy more wine, then to City Hallen for food. This stored has improved recently and is better than City Livs. We also went looking for a car hire place and Sonera for a data sim for our Myfi. Both attempts failed dismally. We then went off to The Maritime museum particularly for lunch. The weather was warming up but the museum's restaurant was shut with only an outdoor substitute with a boring menu so we went down the hill to the West side marina to the rather odd looking wooden restaurant with dragon carvings. Here we had a very good lunch and Kristin made the wisest choice with a grilled beef sandwich with a mustard sauce really excellent.
We returned to the museum and revisited it with enjoyment. They have made a number of improvements since our last visit and I particularly enjoyed the displays of bits of old engines, particularly one piston out of a 70000 HP engine.
On returning to the boat I managed to phone and arrange car-hire for Sunday.
Sunday 28th June
Off in the car to Bomarsund where our first stop was to make sure that the cafe there did serve lunch.
We did a pretty thorough visit to all the main accessible sites including Brannklint, Notvik and Prasto forts together with the cemeteries and a later c.1900 Russian Telegraph station.
We also had a wild goose chase following a sign saying Minneslund. This took us along a dirt track to a small carpark after a surprisingly long time and then onto a boardwalk through a forest. At this point we lost the will to live and retreated. We later found that this was a facility, built with EU money, where mourners could scatter the ashes of their relatives on a special part of the forest; not into the sea as this would be polluting.
Monday 29th June
We finally made contact with Graham and arranged a meeting at the museum for the afternoon. In the meantime I managed to buy a sim card at Sonera and to enviegle Kristin into a Marimekko outlet with satisfying results.
Our meeting with Graham was simply wonderful. He, it would appear from his door label, is quite possibly the director of the museum and spent something like twelve years invstigating and surveying the Bomarsund area. We were lucky to meet him and we only just met him as that evening he was off to Tallinn to discuss the development plans.
We gained a great deal of information about Bomarsund in the three hours we spent with him. He expressed himself as pleased to meet enthusiasts for this unjustly neglected field. He gave us some printed and published information which we have yet to assimilate.
As just one factoid; during his survey of one of the British batteries, he discovered a large deposit of sand on the top of a stony hill - not the sort of place you would expect it. This was the sand used to fill sandbags used to build the battery and dumped when the bags were recovered for future use.
Saturday morning was time for shopping. First to ALKO to buy more wine, then to City Hallen for food. This stored has improved recently and is better than City Livs. We also went looking for a car hire place and Sonera for a data sim for our Myfi. Both attempts failed dismally. We then went off to The Maritime museum particularly for lunch. The weather was warming up but the museum's restaurant was shut with only an outdoor substitute with a boring menu so we went down the hill to the West side marina to the rather odd looking wooden restaurant with dragon carvings. Here we had a very good lunch and Kristin made the wisest choice with a grilled beef sandwich with a mustard sauce really excellent.
We returned to the museum and revisited it with enjoyment. They have made a number of improvements since our last visit and I particularly enjoyed the displays of bits of old engines, particularly one piston out of a 70000 HP engine.
On returning to the boat I managed to phone and arrange car-hire for Sunday.
Sunday 28th June
Off in the car to Bomarsund where our first stop was to make sure that the cafe there did serve lunch.
We did a pretty thorough visit to all the main accessible sites including Brannklint, Notvik and Prasto forts together with the cemeteries and a later c.1900 Russian Telegraph station.
We also had a wild goose chase following a sign saying Minneslund. This took us along a dirt track to a small carpark after a surprisingly long time and then onto a boardwalk through a forest. At this point we lost the will to live and retreated. We later found that this was a facility, built with EU money, where mourners could scatter the ashes of their relatives on a special part of the forest; not into the sea as this would be polluting.
Monday 29th June
We finally made contact with Graham and arranged a meeting at the museum for the afternoon. In the meantime I managed to buy a sim card at Sonera and to enviegle Kristin into a Marimekko outlet with satisfying results.
Our meeting with Graham was simply wonderful. He, it would appear from his door label, is quite possibly the director of the museum and spent something like twelve years invstigating and surveying the Bomarsund area. We were lucky to meet him and we only just met him as that evening he was off to Tallinn to discuss the development plans.
We gained a great deal of information about Bomarsund in the three hours we spent with him. He expressed himself as pleased to meet enthusiasts for this unjustly neglected field. He gave us some printed and published information which we have yet to assimilate.
As just one factoid; during his survey of one of the British batteries, he discovered a large deposit of sand on the top of a stony hill - not the sort of place you would expect it. This was the sand used to fill sandbags used to build the battery and dumped when the bags were recovered for future use.
23rd - 26th June Ingmarso to Arholma and Mariehamn.
We spent three nights at Ingmarso, mainly because of uncertain weather - according to the forecasts. From the harbour mistress Lena I got useful advice about TBE websites. In addition we spent time with Paul and Marilyn of Starship Sirius, very pleasant people with a very comfortable boat.
We left on 25th June for Arholma 59N50.532, 18E07.326 as this looked like a good jumping off point for the Aaland islands with the wind direction expected the following day. The track from Ingmarso goes through superb waters, past lovely small islands,between reefs and shallows. It is quite open with actually a low percentage of land but never far away from it. We had sunshine and a gentle southerly breeze behind us so enjoyed ourselves hugely.
However the wind failed us on the long passage between Blido and Yxlan and we found the rather suburban feel to the area unpleasing so motored on till we had more wind in the open main channels NE of Blido. Here the water was horribly cut up by fast ferries and even faster motorboats; by this time the sun had gone so it was cold as well. We were glad to pass Kapellskar and its ferry terminal to go north again in quieter waters and ever smaller passages till we arrived at Arholma itself. Arholma's beauty has been severely marred by the installation of a new floating 'poo tank with a toilet on top of it and a recycling can as well. It is positioned very close to the quay and also obstructs a fair amount of the water. We had supper on board.
Friday26th June
Up at 0457 and under way at 0555 for Mariehamn with the plan to find out more about the Bomarsund battle as we could. The wind allowed us to sail but with motor assist as we had a nasty cross swell and unpleasant motion, we saw few other boats on the crossing until much later on in the day. We found the newish bank of wind turbines clustered round Nyhamn light at the southern tip of the main island very useful as waymarks; much bigger and more visible than the lighthouse itself.. Turning north soon after the light house we had a tedious motor trip for about 10 miles straight into wind to get to the Eastern Marina. Here we had box moorings, tall wooden posts at regular intervals about 10 metres from the pontoon. These require a particular approach for a successful mooring which we managed. It has been a long time since we last used the method.
I went round to the museum to try to find my contact Graham Robins, who is the expert on Bomarsund but found the museum a mere shell with an immense redevelopment effort going on. I was directed eventually to an inconspicuous door where I found that Graham had departed to Sweden for the weekend. He was obtaining a sail boat there and had no real idea when we would arrive as we were unable to be precise about our schedule.
We then had a surprisingly good lunch at the marina restaurant and relaxed for the rest of the day.
We left on 25th June for Arholma 59N50.532, 18E07.326 as this looked like a good jumping off point for the Aaland islands with the wind direction expected the following day. The track from Ingmarso goes through superb waters, past lovely small islands,between reefs and shallows. It is quite open with actually a low percentage of land but never far away from it. We had sunshine and a gentle southerly breeze behind us so enjoyed ourselves hugely.
However the wind failed us on the long passage between Blido and Yxlan and we found the rather suburban feel to the area unpleasing so motored on till we had more wind in the open main channels NE of Blido. Here the water was horribly cut up by fast ferries and even faster motorboats; by this time the sun had gone so it was cold as well. We were glad to pass Kapellskar and its ferry terminal to go north again in quieter waters and ever smaller passages till we arrived at Arholma itself. Arholma's beauty has been severely marred by the installation of a new floating 'poo tank with a toilet on top of it and a recycling can as well. It is positioned very close to the quay and also obstructs a fair amount of the water. We had supper on board.
Friday26th June
Up at 0457 and under way at 0555 for Mariehamn with the plan to find out more about the Bomarsund battle as we could. The wind allowed us to sail but with motor assist as we had a nasty cross swell and unpleasant motion, we saw few other boats on the crossing until much later on in the day. We found the newish bank of wind turbines clustered round Nyhamn light at the southern tip of the main island very useful as waymarks; much bigger and more visible than the lighthouse itself.. Turning north soon after the light house we had a tedious motor trip for about 10 miles straight into wind to get to the Eastern Marina. Here we had box moorings, tall wooden posts at regular intervals about 10 metres from the pontoon. These require a particular approach for a successful mooring which we managed. It has been a long time since we last used the method.
I went round to the museum to try to find my contact Graham Robins, who is the expert on Bomarsund but found the museum a mere shell with an immense redevelopment effort going on. I was directed eventually to an inconspicuous door where I found that Graham had departed to Sweden for the weekend. He was obtaining a sail boat there and had no real idea when we would arrive as we were unable to be precise about our schedule.
We then had a surprisingly good lunch at the marina restaurant and relaxed for the rest of the day.
Monday 22 June 2015
21st -22nd June 2015 Malma Kvarn to Ingmarso
With a reasonable forecast of cloud and easterly breeze we decided it was time to leave Malma Kvarn and head north on our way to the Aland Islands. We made a neat exit from the harbour but found two problems getting the main up. Firstly the second and third reefing lines fouled each other - easily solved. The second was that the mainsail foot was not fully extended. We had to lower it a little on the halliard and winch out the foot using the mast winch. We soon got the sail fully hoisted and set off NE along Namdo Fjard. We used the motor as well as the main - so wind assisted motoring. We'd left harbour quite late , about 0930 so the motor boats were soon passing at high speed cutting up the water and slowing us quite noticeably.
We wriggled our way through to Kanholms Fjard, a big open area of water, completely surrounded by land, where Russian submarines were or were not seen a few months ago. It is certainly deep, we noted 99 metres on the echo sounder, but it was also choppy. At one point we had violent motion as Kristin was making lunch. We were in the middle of standing waves with peaks at 5 metre intervals in all directions; very uncomfortable. We also were crossing a big ship route into Stockholm but no ships appeared. We then dived back into intricate passage close to Ladna. Our only slight drama was a narrow passage at 59N25.4, 18E45.3 where we passed over a shoal between two islands where the depth reduced to 1.3 metres below the keel. We reached Ingmarso after a very pleasant journey, mostly in warm sunshine of 18 miles.
Ingmarso has a very welcoming marina attached to a boatyard and with rowing boats available to make getting to shop (singular) and restaurant convenient.
Those of you with access to Google Earth may wish to work out our route from Malma Kvarn 59N15.4,18E18.9 to Ingmarso 59N27.91, 18E45.41.
The weather is warming up a little . It's now 14C in the cabin at light and reasonably comfortable during the day. We will not be swimming yet but some children did so in Malma Kvarn yesterday.
We wriggled our way through to Kanholms Fjard, a big open area of water, completely surrounded by land, where Russian submarines were or were not seen a few months ago. It is certainly deep, we noted 99 metres on the echo sounder, but it was also choppy. At one point we had violent motion as Kristin was making lunch. We were in the middle of standing waves with peaks at 5 metre intervals in all directions; very uncomfortable. We also were crossing a big ship route into Stockholm but no ships appeared. We then dived back into intricate passage close to Ladna. Our only slight drama was a narrow passage at 59N25.4, 18E45.3 where we passed over a shoal between two islands where the depth reduced to 1.3 metres below the keel. We reached Ingmarso after a very pleasant journey, mostly in warm sunshine of 18 miles.
Ingmarso has a very welcoming marina attached to a boatyard and with rowing boats available to make getting to shop (singular) and restaurant convenient.
Those of you with access to Google Earth may wish to work out our route from Malma Kvarn 59N15.4,18E18.9 to Ingmarso 59N27.91, 18E45.41.
The weather is warming up a little . It's now 14C in the cabin at light and reasonably comfortable during the day. We will not be swimming yet but some children did so in Malma Kvarn yesterday.
Saturday 20 June 2015
16th to 20th June 2015 Malma Kvarn
We have been at Malma kvarn since arriving on Monday. The weather has been cold and has become increasingly wet so we are glad to be in a safe harbour. We have walked a little in the neighbourhood admiring both the countryside and the numerous holiday homes around. We have had two good barbeque dinners at the restaurant with chef Johan and his wife Blenda officiating. However this happy state may well not endure. Johan has had great trouble negotiating a new contract with the Swedish Cruising club and may well pull out entirely. His restaurant has brought many people to the harbour and it is stupid to lose such an asset. We took no real part in the Midsummer festivities because of more or less continuous rain. However the summer pole was duly decorated, people danced and sang round it in the rain and later a band plyed in the harbour under a small tent but we do not know if anyone danced to them.
Friday 19 June 2015
8th to 15th June Stockholm
Monday 8th June
Missing our concerts, we had chores to do. Kristin washed clothes in Wasahamnen's machines which include a superfast commercial dryer. I dipped the fuel tank looking for diesel bug, dosed with Fuelset and refilled the tank from cans. I then replaced the fluid in the gearbox but had to bodge up a flexible connector out of rubbaweld tape as the original rubber connector on the hand pump had hardened and split with age and oil.
I also had to buy a small cycle pump to inflate a new and better bow fender.
Coming in bows on to landing stages a small misjudgement can mean a lot of gel-coat repairing.
Kristin needed to get routine blood tests done which has become a pain. The previous commercial operation no longer does them and it's suggested replacement requires a letter from a Swedish doctor. In the end the marina staff found the answer, a private hospital some distance away. Even then we had to visit three places before getting "served" and even then numerous conversations had to take place. Also the price had doubled and I had to go back the following day to get the results.
Just for relief I took this pic of Viburnums by the marina to prove to Nick there are infestations of them in Sweden too.
Tuesday 9th June
To Waldermarsudde (Prince Eugen's small palace) for lunch (good) and to an exhibition of Emil Nolde pictures. Nolde is a German/Danish Impressionist. We'd previously seen mainly his pictures of pre-war German cafe society which show his dislike of it. He also painted incredibly bright pictures ( called "colour storms" by other painters). We found these works wonderful. No pics for this page sorry. He also painted gentler coast and sea pictures. The exhibition was a revelation and we bought the catalogue.
The weather at this point was warm and sunny.
We had had the marina crew, Haakon, Taina, Janne, Helene, Tomas to have evening drinks and had a very pleasant evening. Tomas was off the next day for an operation but expects to take his very large yacht to the Carribean soon with Taina and Janne.
Wednesday 10th June
To Lilyvalch's Gallery to see marvellous sculpture exhibition of work by Hertha Hilfon ( 1921 - 2013). Now Lilyvalchs puts on some seriously wierd exhibitions and this was definitely not one of those. Hertha works in clay, mainly in slabs. Her work has some of the monumentality of Elizabeth Frink but also some fantasy. The work is very large and some pieces were fired in separate chunks and reassembled afterwards. The exhibition was well staged with two rooms having as background, large photos of her house and courtyard. In a new policy for this gallery they are charging only 10 krona for entry. It must have been very expensive to stage, if only because the pieces are so heavy.
We had dinner in Gamla Stan at a Japanese restaurant.
Thursday 11th June
Good weather, rather wasted as we spent a long time arranging a sailing cruise around the Pelopenese in October. We were invited to lunch by Helena in her apartment in Sodermalm overlooking the route to and from Hamarby lock. The apartment is beautiful and has the most amazing views.
Friday 12th June
Visit to Sven Harry Museum in the north west of Stockholm. This disinctly modern building has a reconstruction of Sven Harry's country house complete with his collection of paintings and sculptures. It was an interesting idea but not in fact very impressive in appearance.
The museum also had a pleasant exhibition of 18th C domestic interiors with the usual dmestic tasks.
We also discovered a branch of Melanders fish restaurant and had a very good light lunch at a reasonable price. We also resolved to go there again.
Saturday 13th June
Domestic tasks and watched the arrival of a dozen large Grand Banks Motorboats for a rally. They appeared to do very little, sadly.
Sunday 14th June
To Fotographiska for lunch and three exhibitions:-
a. East African wildlife by Nick Brandt. Black and white close up pics of big game including lions and elephants. I don't know how he survived this. It was a lament for the slaughter of the animals annd depressing..
b. Photos by the Nordic impressionist Anders Zorn, who seems to have been a dubious character with uncertain taste in his etchings but he has done lovely paintings.
c. A very corrupt feeling set of mainly fashion pics.
That evening we were off to western Sodermalm somewhere near where Alice and family stayed for a concert organised by a Japanese lady we knew from the Music Festival. This took place in an old country house rather marooned in the middle of blocks of flats. It also has a pleasant cafe with staff in period costume. The recital, harpsichord, violin and flute was good and the surroundings impressive. Our festival friend Derk had urged us to go and it was good advice.
At the end of the recital a large man in leather trousers and fancy dress stood in the only exit door and held fourth in Swedish about the house. We managed to find an exit through the artists dressing room and crept out shamelessly. That evening to Sambo Rombon for a rather disappointing dinner.
Monday 15th June
To Sabis supermarket for very large quantity of food. As we were early most of the staff were busy filling shelves so help was difficult to find and we had long queues at the checkout. Back to boat by taxi.
We said our good byes at the marina and were off in good weather towards Malma kvarn hoping that chef Johan would be there.
Our first stage, Stockholm harbour and the lead south to Baggenstacket were uneventful motoring with some assistance from a westerly breeze. We stopped to take on fuel and found after filling that one of the cans had a broken cap. We had to buy a another can and transfer fuel rather messily as the can dribbled.
There is always some anxiety as the canal is narrow, curving and used by big ferries and moderate sized ships. We had no problems in the event and unfurled the jib on gaining clear water.
We then had a simply lovely sail, downwind in a moderate breeze with Badger touching seven knots from time to time. Our course was south easterly, we were reasonably warm and we thought summer had arrived.
Our route down Baggens fjard, Agnofjard and Ingarofjard is reasonably wide and with few hazards so we are able to enjoy the sailing, particularly as we had a route plotted.
We continued into more open water passing the wonderfully named Klacknasgrynnan beacon and onto a route trnding northwest and well marked. It was only after turning north after Kofoten that we had to furl the jib and motor the last two miles to Malma kvarn. there was then plenty of room to moor in good shelter.
Missing our concerts, we had chores to do. Kristin washed clothes in Wasahamnen's machines which include a superfast commercial dryer. I dipped the fuel tank looking for diesel bug, dosed with Fuelset and refilled the tank from cans. I then replaced the fluid in the gearbox but had to bodge up a flexible connector out of rubbaweld tape as the original rubber connector on the hand pump had hardened and split with age and oil.
I also had to buy a small cycle pump to inflate a new and better bow fender.
Coming in bows on to landing stages a small misjudgement can mean a lot of gel-coat repairing.
Kristin needed to get routine blood tests done which has become a pain. The previous commercial operation no longer does them and it's suggested replacement requires a letter from a Swedish doctor. In the end the marina staff found the answer, a private hospital some distance away. Even then we had to visit three places before getting "served" and even then numerous conversations had to take place. Also the price had doubled and I had to go back the following day to get the results.Just for relief I took this pic of Viburnums by the marina to prove to Nick there are infestations of them in Sweden too.
Tuesday 9th June
To Waldermarsudde (Prince Eugen's small palace) for lunch (good) and to an exhibition of Emil Nolde pictures. Nolde is a German/Danish Impressionist. We'd previously seen mainly his pictures of pre-war German cafe society which show his dislike of it. He also painted incredibly bright pictures ( called "colour storms" by other painters). We found these works wonderful. No pics for this page sorry. He also painted gentler coast and sea pictures. The exhibition was a revelation and we bought the catalogue.The weather at this point was warm and sunny.
We had had the marina crew, Haakon, Taina, Janne, Helene, Tomas to have evening drinks and had a very pleasant evening. Tomas was off the next day for an operation but expects to take his very large yacht to the Carribean soon with Taina and Janne.Wednesday 10th June
To Lilyvalch's Gallery to see marvellous sculpture exhibition of work by Hertha Hilfon ( 1921 - 2013). Now Lilyvalchs puts on some seriously wierd exhibitions and this was definitely not one of those. Hertha works in clay, mainly in slabs. Her work has some of the monumentality of Elizabeth Frink but also some fantasy. The work is very large and some pieces were fired in separate chunks and reassembled afterwards. The exhibition was well staged with two rooms having as background, large photos of her house and courtyard. In a new policy for this gallery they are charging only 10 krona for entry. It must have been very expensive to stage, if only because the pieces are so heavy.
We had dinner in Gamla Stan at a Japanese restaurant.
Thursday 11th June
Good weather, rather wasted as we spent a long time arranging a sailing cruise around the Pelopenese in October. We were invited to lunch by Helena in her apartment in Sodermalm overlooking the route to and from Hamarby lock. The apartment is beautiful and has the most amazing views.
Friday 12th June
Visit to Sven Harry Museum in the north west of Stockholm. This disinctly modern building has a reconstruction of Sven Harry's country house complete with his collection of paintings and sculptures. It was an interesting idea but not in fact very impressive in appearance.
The museum also had a pleasant exhibition of 18th C domestic interiors with the usual dmestic tasks.
We also discovered a branch of Melanders fish restaurant and had a very good light lunch at a reasonable price. We also resolved to go there again.
Saturday 13th June
Domestic tasks and watched the arrival of a dozen large Grand Banks Motorboats for a rally. They appeared to do very little, sadly.
Sunday 14th June
To Fotographiska for lunch and three exhibitions:-
a. East African wildlife by Nick Brandt. Black and white close up pics of big game including lions and elephants. I don't know how he survived this. It was a lament for the slaughter of the animals annd depressing..
b. Photos by the Nordic impressionist Anders Zorn, who seems to have been a dubious character with uncertain taste in his etchings but he has done lovely paintings.
c. A very corrupt feeling set of mainly fashion pics.
That evening we were off to western Sodermalm somewhere near where Alice and family stayed for a concert organised by a Japanese lady we knew from the Music Festival. This took place in an old country house rather marooned in the middle of blocks of flats. It also has a pleasant cafe with staff in period costume. The recital, harpsichord, violin and flute was good and the surroundings impressive. Our festival friend Derk had urged us to go and it was good advice.
At the end of the recital a large man in leather trousers and fancy dress stood in the only exit door and held fourth in Swedish about the house. We managed to find an exit through the artists dressing room and crept out shamelessly. That evening to Sambo Rombon for a rather disappointing dinner.
Monday 15th June
To Sabis supermarket for very large quantity of food. As we were early most of the staff were busy filling shelves so help was difficult to find and we had long queues at the checkout. Back to boat by taxi.
We said our good byes at the marina and were off in good weather towards Malma kvarn hoping that chef Johan would be there.
Our first stage, Stockholm harbour and the lead south to Baggenstacket were uneventful motoring with some assistance from a westerly breeze. We stopped to take on fuel and found after filling that one of the cans had a broken cap. We had to buy a another can and transfer fuel rather messily as the can dribbled.
There is always some anxiety as the canal is narrow, curving and used by big ferries and moderate sized ships. We had no problems in the event and unfurled the jib on gaining clear water.
We then had a simply lovely sail, downwind in a moderate breeze with Badger touching seven knots from time to time. Our course was south easterly, we were reasonably warm and we thought summer had arrived.
Our route down Baggens fjard, Agnofjard and Ingarofjard is reasonably wide and with few hazards so we are able to enjoy the sailing, particularly as we had a route plotted.
We continued into more open water passing the wonderfully named Klacknasgrynnan beacon and onto a route trnding northwest and well marked. It was only after turning north after Kofoten that we had to furl the jib and motor the last two miles to Malma kvarn. there was then plenty of room to moor in good shelter.
6th to 7th June 2015 Stockholm
We love wandering through Gamla Stan whether by day or night along the narrow streets between tall buildings with certainly ancient foundations and mainly 18th C upper parts. There is the occasional tree to aid navigation and a big pump to remind one of life in former times. The shops are special too and one of them had this grotesque small stone head in it. I tickled my fancy and I thought it the sort of carving that could be made and sold economically.I should also say that Saturday was Sweden's national day and there were parades, proclamations and speeches, which we largely missed.
Saturday 1030 Concert Rat-catcher in Stockholm
This was a children's concert although grownups were allowed too. The Pied piper story was modified as young children were to take part. The pied piper also played the violin and two dancers, including Daniela, who we love. The children were both rats and piped children so the rats had to be transported to Australia and then released; which is why there are so many rats in Australia today. The children were take to a deep cavern and then released when the rat-catcher got his money. The children clearly enjoyed this and tried to imitate the dancers' movements.
Noon Concert Bastard Baroque
This was half successful, best when playing more modern music and rather marred by a young man making would-be portentious statements and clearly in love with himself. In addition members of the group read from a book at intervals. This could have been done effectively. Many of performers at the Totnes Music Society do so. This did not work. The music was good and the group are very young.
We missed the 1400 talk on unknown female composers but our friend Helena said it was good. We went home to have lunch and rest.
1800 Concert Roses and Mysteries
This was a marvellous recital of Biber violin sonatas with theorbo, cello and harpsichord accompanists. This was a superb concert and probably the best of the season. A pressman was just in front of us taking pictures very obtrusively until we poked him enough to get him to leave. It is perfectly possible to work unobtrusively and the SEMF photographer does just that. We will have to buy some Biber when we get home.
2030 Concert Gesualdo Madrigals Book 6 ( Bok Sex on the concert programme)
This should have been great and was in parts. Unfortunately the singers did not blend well and the first soprano was just too loud and at times harsh. The conductor was probably at fault but clearly loved his singers. The bass was superb. The music was unfamiliar and incredibly intricate.
Again we could have attended another concert at 2300 but instead had a late supper at Castana with our group of friends and went back to sleep.
Sunday Noon Concert Heinavanker ( Runic Estonia)
Back in the 18th C splendours of the Cathedral Parish Hall we heard an amazing group of Estonian Singers performing church music, partly of native Estonian origin and partly Lutheran hymns. They had an extraordinary ensemble style and we have now bought three of their records which should indicate the impression they made on us. Alice should have had one delivered to her by now. interestingly the male singers had their music on tablet computes while the female singers used conventional scores.
1500 Concert Nova Europa
This took place in the House of the Nobility, a very impressive building in Gamla Stan where all the walls are covered in smallish copper plaques each painted with the Arms of a Noble family. The custodian insisted on giving a lecture, mercifully short. the group were young and the music came from South America, mainly 15th and 16th C. This was a super concert too and they played with great energy and talent. They too read at intervals but had take their material from contemporary records and the extracts were relevant and interesting.1700 Concert NeoBarock
the previous concert overrunning we had to hurry to the Finnish concert which was basically a disaster. the leader, Par Lindh, has written music " in the Baroque style". His picture, clearly taken many years ago shows a tall willowy and "romantic" youth. He is still the same height but considerably wider, and conducts from the harpsichord where most of the players cannot see him. The first piece for oboe, violin and strings had him adding tings from a cymbal from time to time and had some very vulgar twinkling star noises from the harsichord for Christmas Night. The oboe and violin playing was good and players took their time from the oboe.
The second piece was a harpsichord solo which he played perfectly competently but which had no content that I could discern.
2100 Concert Sacred Bridges
This concert was by two groups; Sarband and Ave of sacred music from Judaism and Islam. It was mainly a service and we were asked not to applaud. During part of the time a whirling dervish rotated on a platform. When the concert finished, we all applauded and the dervish basically ran away. We felt he was at best made very uncomfortable by the applause. He, at least, was not performing but worshipping.
The music came from a great variety of sources including a polish man turned Muslim, Eastern christian, 4th C Syrian, Sephardic Jewish.
The concert was continuous and built in intensity throughout. Personally I was unable to keep track of which piece was being played. It was in short a wonderful and impressive concert.
We'd never seen a dervish before. He followed a set routine of movement, bowing beforehand, pausing with arms folded, beginning to rotate and gradually extending his arms. He turned with head on one side, eyes closed and one could see a knee come up high under his skirt as he moved. Rate of rotation 30 rpm. ( I am after all a scientist). I would have liked to have heard and watched it again. It was so strange and complex I could not take it all in in one go.
After that, and feeling a bit flat now that the Festival was over, we moved off to a Tapas bar for supper with our friends. Duncan had two full days of consulting work still to do so he had to work on Monday and we needed to rest.
Thursday 18 June 2015
4th to 5th June 2015 Stockholm
While out in the streets large lorries pass at intervals each filled with a group of school leavers, shouting, blowing whistles,shouting, waving sprinkling pedestrians with beer, each with a loud rock music system. It is a rite of passage that has been developing since we first started going to Sweden.
Thursday
Early lunch at Stadtsmission then encountered festival director Peter Pontvik and a helper putting up signs for the 1200 event. Peter took Kristin aside to enquire anxiously about the ticketing problem. I said that the placement was an intelligence test that we had all failed.and helped to put up the posters.
The noon event was a record recital by Vassily Bolonassos who did the same thing on Swedish Radio for many years. We enjoyed the music. Kristin sayed for the 1400 talk; about music teaching methods in late 18th C Naples but as it was in Swedish I went off. Kristin reported that pupils were expected to be able to compose a two part fugue after three months.
he evening concert was an organ recital at the German Church designed to show off both the player and the instrument. We were warned by another festival friend that the organ was tuned to "mean temperament". As far as I can grasp this, notes with particular frequency ratios 1:2 ( octave) 2:3 etc. are agreeable. Regrettably when moving from octave to octave exact matches are impossible. 2:3 goes to 9:4 and so on. Thus compromises must be made. The mean tone compromises make for a hard sound on the organ so much of the playing was, I found, harsh. From where I sat the organ was to my right. However I was getting loud harsh tones from 45 degrees high left which was very disconcerting. Altogether a bit of a miss in concert terms. Even so the after concert gathering, a repeat of the previous night plus Helena was very nice.
Friday
Friday started as usual at Stadtsmission and then on to the Catheral hall for a harpsichord recital at midday. The player, Nicoleta Paraschivescu was pretty slightly tubby and when she sat down or moved on the stool it creaked a little and worried us. She played 18th C music by Marianna Martines with works by Paisello for comparison. The Martines orks stood up well. Incidentally works with no known composer are now described as Anonyma to emphasise the skills of women in composing and the probability of ther names being suppressed.
At 1400 we had a lecture by Jean-Loup Ringt on Stone Age Music. Jean is a geologist and has made a study of Stone Age instruments; pointing out to begin with that one has great difficulty in recognising such instruments. HE showed a replica Paleolithic 4 hole flute from a swan bone and played it making a tune.
Even more impressive was a flint lithophone. See attached picture.
at 1800 in the Finnish church we heard Anglaskonket ( Angels Music) mainly Italian songs of hopeless love. Another excellent concert.
At 2030 We had Il Gardelino, a string and flute ensemble playing Handel, CPE Bach, Vivaldi etc. Another great concert.
There was another concert at 2300 but we were simple too tired to go so went home by the penultimate ferry to bed. A really great day.
Thursday
Early lunch at Stadtsmission then encountered festival director Peter Pontvik and a helper putting up signs for the 1200 event. Peter took Kristin aside to enquire anxiously about the ticketing problem. I said that the placement was an intelligence test that we had all failed.and helped to put up the posters.
The noon event was a record recital by Vassily Bolonassos who did the same thing on Swedish Radio for many years. We enjoyed the music. Kristin sayed for the 1400 talk; about music teaching methods in late 18th C Naples but as it was in Swedish I went off. Kristin reported that pupils were expected to be able to compose a two part fugue after three months.
he evening concert was an organ recital at the German Church designed to show off both the player and the instrument. We were warned by another festival friend that the organ was tuned to "mean temperament". As far as I can grasp this, notes with particular frequency ratios 1:2 ( octave) 2:3 etc. are agreeable. Regrettably when moving from octave to octave exact matches are impossible. 2:3 goes to 9:4 and so on. Thus compromises must be made. The mean tone compromises make for a hard sound on the organ so much of the playing was, I found, harsh. From where I sat the organ was to my right. However I was getting loud harsh tones from 45 degrees high left which was very disconcerting. Altogether a bit of a miss in concert terms. Even so the after concert gathering, a repeat of the previous night plus Helena was very nice.
Friday
Friday started as usual at Stadtsmission and then on to the Catheral hall for a harpsichord recital at midday. The player, Nicoleta Paraschivescu was pretty slightly tubby and when she sat down or moved on the stool it creaked a little and worried us. She played 18th C music by Marianna Martines with works by Paisello for comparison. The Martines orks stood up well. Incidentally works with no known composer are now described as Anonyma to emphasise the skills of women in composing and the probability of ther names being suppressed.
 |
| Replica lithophone |
Even more impressive was a flint lithophone. See attached picture.
at 1800 in the Finnish church we heard Anglaskonket ( Angels Music) mainly Italian songs of hopeless love. Another excellent concert.
At 2030 We had Il Gardelino, a string and flute ensemble playing Handel, CPE Bach, Vivaldi etc. Another great concert.
There was another concert at 2300 but we were simple too tired to go so went home by the penultimate ferry to bed. A really great day.
26th May to 3rd June 2015 In Stockholm
Saturday
We started our stay in Stockholm with simple chores I had to buy a new multimeter so I could wire the mast instruments correctly, we did some washing and stayed indoors in bitter wind and rain which mainly affected the Stockholm Marathon. In recent year on one bridge, runners suffered a -16C wind chill factor with many suffering hypothermia.
Sunday
To Biological Museum close to Wasahamnen. This is in fact a display of stuffed animals from the 19th C, housed in an impressive Viking style building. We went there mainly because Kristin noted that the background paintings were by Bruno Lillefors. On the ground floor are two dioramas featuring respectively a walrus and a polar bear. A gigantic musk ox head hangs in the entrance hall. Both walrus and musk ox are genuinely impressive. The first and second floors are a single case. We stood on one of two central circular platforms reached by two spiral staircases. The paintings covered all the internal walls. The displays here were impressive but many of the animals pelts had faded. Lillefors paintings of rock, sea and sky were excellent but he'd been rushed over the woodland scenes and these were just sketched. Regrettably the whole display is old and some of the canvas has become detached. There is no budget for restoration - rather sad.
We went from there to a Lebanese restaurant for a very large lunch of cold meze dishes, warm meze dishes and grilled meats following, all washed down with wine. The result was that we staggered on board a tram to get back to Badger and collapsed. We did emerge later for drinks with Ian on Starburst in return for drinks on Badger on Friday evening.
Monday
Wet and very windy. To Gamla Stan, anxious about Festival tickets, nothing happening, ate at Stadtsmission, which is very good value with super salads then to the English bookshop which was about move to Sodermalm.
Tuesday
To Gamla Stan again for good lunch. We were first in the queue for tickets like last year. the main organiser, Anna Katarina, commented that we, who had come furthest, arrive first. The Festival passes had no marked places which proved distinctly irritating. We then went off to the Science Fiction bookshop.
Wednesday
Wednesday
To Moderna Museet for very good lunch and then the exhibitions. The permanent collection has been rehung and some old favourites are back but we did not like the new hanging much. Good temporary film and video exhibition on the hitory and horros of Lebanon unde Israeli attacks.
Back to Badger to rest then early evening for 1930 start to Stockholm Early Music Festival. Meetings with old friends, Derk Dam our expert on music, Duncan a distinguished consultant medical scientist and our elderly friends form Sundsvoll also enthusiastic attenders of the festival.
We had great problems with seating and finally sat in the wrong seats.
Usual presentations, remarks by distinguished guest and at last the first concert.
This was by La Fenice (international) and Vox Luminis (Belgian) of masses for the dead by Charpentier. A really lovely concert with superb singing. Afterwards to La Castagna with Duncan and Derk for a bottle of wine and cheese and bread as Duncan had not eaten all day due to an intense work programme at the Karolinska. The musicians ate there too and we thanked them briefly.
We started our stay in Stockholm with simple chores I had to buy a new multimeter so I could wire the mast instruments correctly, we did some washing and stayed indoors in bitter wind and rain which mainly affected the Stockholm Marathon. In recent year on one bridge, runners suffered a -16C wind chill factor with many suffering hypothermia.
Sunday
To Biological Museum close to Wasahamnen. This is in fact a display of stuffed animals from the 19th C, housed in an impressive Viking style building. We went there mainly because Kristin noted that the background paintings were by Bruno Lillefors. On the ground floor are two dioramas featuring respectively a walrus and a polar bear. A gigantic musk ox head hangs in the entrance hall. Both walrus and musk ox are genuinely impressive. The first and second floors are a single case. We stood on one of two central circular platforms reached by two spiral staircases. The paintings covered all the internal walls. The displays here were impressive but many of the animals pelts had faded. Lillefors paintings of rock, sea and sky were excellent but he'd been rushed over the woodland scenes and these were just sketched. Regrettably the whole display is old and some of the canvas has become detached. There is no budget for restoration - rather sad.
We went from there to a Lebanese restaurant for a very large lunch of cold meze dishes, warm meze dishes and grilled meats following, all washed down with wine. The result was that we staggered on board a tram to get back to Badger and collapsed. We did emerge later for drinks with Ian on Starburst in return for drinks on Badger on Friday evening.
Monday
Wet and very windy. To Gamla Stan, anxious about Festival tickets, nothing happening, ate at Stadtsmission, which is very good value with super salads then to the English bookshop which was about move to Sodermalm.
Tuesday
To Gamla Stan again for good lunch. We were first in the queue for tickets like last year. the main organiser, Anna Katarina, commented that we, who had come furthest, arrive first. The Festival passes had no marked places which proved distinctly irritating. We then went off to the Science Fiction bookshop.
Wednesday
Wednesday
To Moderna Museet for very good lunch and then the exhibitions. The permanent collection has been rehung and some old favourites are back but we did not like the new hanging much. Good temporary film and video exhibition on the hitory and horros of Lebanon unde Israeli attacks.
Back to Badger to rest then early evening for 1930 start to Stockholm Early Music Festival. Meetings with old friends, Derk Dam our expert on music, Duncan a distinguished consultant medical scientist and our elderly friends form Sundsvoll also enthusiastic attenders of the festival.
We had great problems with seating and finally sat in the wrong seats.
Usual presentations, remarks by distinguished guest and at last the first concert.
This was by La Fenice (international) and Vox Luminis (Belgian) of masses for the dead by Charpentier. A really lovely concert with superb singing. Afterwards to La Castagna with Duncan and Derk for a bottle of wine and cheese and bread as Duncan had not eaten all day due to an intense work programme at the Karolinska. The musicians ate there too and we thanked them briefly.
Tuesday 16 June 2015
26th - 28th May 2015 On water boat prep and departure
After launch I "tuned" the mast while Kristin orted the cabin and then we fitted the boom and dealt with a jam in the jib furling system. I did this by loosening the drum outer casing so it would rotate round the forestay and so was able, more easily to undo the riding turns inside the drum that were the root cause of the problem. I ended up with less turns on the drum but still enough to furl the jib completely.
On Tuesday 27th We fitted the mainsail and Calpack followed by the jib. Were were by now running late on our schedule. We had to be at the German church in Stockholm by 1300 Tuesday ad were worried by the poor weather. Accordingly we paid our bill at the Varv and put the cqar in the warm hall as usual leaving a bit later than we would have liked on Wednesday after I'd mad a hash of departure and backed hard into a pontoon. The forecast was for reasonable weather that day but poor the next day or so. We had a good westerly to start with and sunshine for the journey wish was towards the Sodertalje canal and lake Malaren.
We enjoyed the sail but, within sight of the ship route to Sodertalje, got caught by an intense shower squall where we had to concentrate on keeping safely on track to avoid the rocks. We considered whether to stop for the day at Skansholmenn but it seemed preferable to continue. We then got caught by a very cold NW rain squall and had to furl the jib and again steer with considerable care to avoid a notorious rock before reentering the ship channel. Eventually the rain stopped, the sun emerged and we continued peacefully to the entrance to the first Sodertalje canal. Just before this we saw a ship very slowly approaching from behind which was a worry and then a ship emerging from the canal and approaching from in front. Clearly the ship behind had been waiting for the latter ship to clear the canal. There was no point in trying to stay ahead of the ship behind us so we circled and then followed it to Sodrtalje marina where we stopped for the night. having made a passage of 49 miles. We were tired and stayed the next night as well.
Friday 29th
With another OK forecast we made it through Sodertalje lock at 0930, passed under the following bridge into the second canal section and out onto Lake Malearen where we had a following breeze so unfurled the jib and had a lovely sail till we had to turn east into narrow waters and lost the breeze. The passage to Stockholm was peaceful except that Hammarby lock now has a nasty system for collecting money. One has to use a portable card meter which needs two hands. The only means of attachment provided are short lines to hang onto. With only two people on board this just does not work unless one moors up properly. One CAmember has already lost a credit card in this lock. The process is extremely slow so will be a nightmare in high summer. Danviks Bron, surprisingly delayed us very little and we were welcomed into Wasahamnen and immediately fell into Blau Porte restaurant for a celebratory meal.
The weather contined being cold particularly at night with cabin temperature of about 11C which meant wearing thermals n bed, a thermal blanket over all and running the electric fire in the morning.
On Tuesday 27th We fitted the mainsail and Calpack followed by the jib. Were were by now running late on our schedule. We had to be at the German church in Stockholm by 1300 Tuesday ad were worried by the poor weather. Accordingly we paid our bill at the Varv and put the cqar in the warm hall as usual leaving a bit later than we would have liked on Wednesday after I'd mad a hash of departure and backed hard into a pontoon. The forecast was for reasonable weather that day but poor the next day or so. We had a good westerly to start with and sunshine for the journey wish was towards the Sodertalje canal and lake Malaren.
We enjoyed the sail but, within sight of the ship route to Sodertalje, got caught by an intense shower squall where we had to concentrate on keeping safely on track to avoid the rocks. We considered whether to stop for the day at Skansholmenn but it seemed preferable to continue. We then got caught by a very cold NW rain squall and had to furl the jib and again steer with considerable care to avoid a notorious rock before reentering the ship channel. Eventually the rain stopped, the sun emerged and we continued peacefully to the entrance to the first Sodertalje canal. Just before this we saw a ship very slowly approaching from behind which was a worry and then a ship emerging from the canal and approaching from in front. Clearly the ship behind had been waiting for the latter ship to clear the canal. There was no point in trying to stay ahead of the ship behind us so we circled and then followed it to Sodrtalje marina where we stopped for the night. having made a passage of 49 miles. We were tired and stayed the next night as well.
Friday 29th
With another OK forecast we made it through Sodertalje lock at 0930, passed under the following bridge into the second canal section and out onto Lake Malearen where we had a following breeze so unfurled the jib and had a lovely sail till we had to turn east into narrow waters and lost the breeze. The passage to Stockholm was peaceful except that Hammarby lock now has a nasty system for collecting money. One has to use a portable card meter which needs two hands. The only means of attachment provided are short lines to hang onto. With only two people on board this just does not work unless one moors up properly. One CAmember has already lost a credit card in this lock. The process is extremely slow so will be a nightmare in high summer. Danviks Bron, surprisingly delayed us very little and we were welcomed into Wasahamnen and immediately fell into Blau Porte restaurant for a celebratory meal.
The weather contined being cold particularly at night with cabin temperature of about 11C which meant wearing thermals n bed, a thermal blanket over all and running the electric fire in the morning.
19th-25th May 2015 Across Sweden to Nykoping, boat prep and launch
The ferry journey to Trelleborg was troublefree and so was the road journey to Nykoping, if long and boring. We checked in to our hotel and of course went off to eat suchi at Kohiro, our favourite restaurant in Nykoping. Later we had a look at Badger but only next morning began the work of packing away the kit we had brought and then preparing her for sea.
This work was the normal round of antifouling, seacocks, anode checking, lubrication, mat preparation and so on. the only notable extra was painting a red line at water level in boot topooing. Ths involved much careful and not quite accurate applying and removal of masking tape with Lacoon like sticky bundles of used tape. We now have a different cradle with the result we could antifoul parts of Badger we have been unable to get at for years. I had rather underestimated the time this work would take so had to reschedule the launch and hotel accommodation with the result we stayed in three hotels all told. We also had a lovely evening with our dear friennds Martin and Maria Morris at their country home, saying hallo to Berty the robot mower as well.
Our launch on Monday went well and I motored round to Nykoping marina to finish fitting out while Kristin met me having driven the car round.
We had also reacquainted ourselves with the hotel and restaurant school being warmly greeted with the cry that "now summer is here". The food there and particularly the salads are worth coming a long distance to enjoy.
This work was the normal round of antifouling, seacocks, anode checking, lubrication, mat preparation and so on. the only notable extra was painting a red line at water level in boot topooing. Ths involved much careful and not quite accurate applying and removal of masking tape with Lacoon like sticky bundles of used tape. We now have a different cradle with the result we could antifoul parts of Badger we have been unable to get at for years. I had rather underestimated the time this work would take so had to reschedule the launch and hotel accommodation with the result we stayed in three hotels all told. We also had a lovely evening with our dear friennds Martin and Maria Morris at their country home, saying hallo to Berty the robot mower as well.
Our launch on Monday went well and I motored round to Nykoping marina to finish fitting out while Kristin met me having driven the car round.
We had also reacquainted ourselves with the hotel and restaurant school being warmly greeted with the cry that "now summer is here". The food there and particularly the salads are worth coming a long distance to enjoy.
16th May 2015 Luneburg - 18th May Lubeck
Otterlo to Luneburg is a longish drive but not too tiring. Our new Tomtom successfully got us to the hotel along a very tricky route through the historic part of the city. the hotel istselgf looked boring from the outside - a plain white lump - proved exciting with a steep windy staircase, ancient beams and large modern bedroom. We found our way to "Alte Brauhaus for an excellent lunch and later dinner, only later realising that I'd picked it out of Trip advisor a month or two earlier. Our hotel was very close to the historic crane on the quayside. We perambulated gently round the older parts of the city but did no formal site visiting.
The next day we made our way to Lubeck by back roads mainly to avoid the Hamburg Ring but also to explore a little. The journey was quite a difficult drive but rewarding and we rached our hotel Der alte Stadtmauer in good order using the hotel's parking and leaving the fridge in place, relying on the car's new battery overnight. Lubeck is one of our favourite cities with its Hansa history and big dramatic churches.It is also where we buy spirits for use on Badger during the summer.
The next day 18th we drifted down to Travemunde, rested and took the 2200 ferry to Trelleborg in Sweden
The next day we made our way to Lubeck by back roads mainly to avoid the Hamburg Ring but also to explore a little. The journey was quite a difficult drive but rewarding and we rached our hotel Der alte Stadtmauer in good order using the hotel's parking and leaving the fridge in place, relying on the car's new battery overnight. Lubeck is one of our favourite cities with its Hansa history and big dramatic churches.It is also where we buy spirits for use on Badger during the summer.
The next day 18th we drifted down to Travemunde, rested and took the 2200 ferry to Trelleborg in Sweden
15th May 2015 at Otterlo, Kroller Muller Museum
For the first time I photographed some of the installation sculptures outside the KM entrance, something I'd neglected before.
The indoor collection was disappointing as the main collection of Van Goch's was not on show, unlike on our last visit two years ago. A guardian said they did not lend pictures but on t'other hand one other person reported on a good show at the VG museum in Amsterdam so perhaps they had loaned out their best ones.
The main temporary exhibition was of a small number of VG's with some of his contemporaries and their comments on each others paintings. This was illuminating and included a few of VG's biggies.A second exhibition was of collections of museum objects chosen by individuals and illustrating a particular theme. This we found trivial.
In Otterloo town there was a large campaign showing VG picture replicas for a campaign "A taste of Van Goch". this turned out to be an advertisement for a new tented restaurant in the museum's grounds supplementing the rather small restaurant in the museum itself. This was a large amount of fuss for a small project perhaps designed to draw attention away from the lack of VG paintings.the museum grounds were of greater interest to us, including old favourites like the floating "swan" in the shade of an oak tree and Dubuffet's Jardin D'email with a large number of children happily running about on it. Sadly safety concerns have forced the museum to put barriers all the way up the "endless staircase" thus visually wrecking it. Unfortunately several people have climbed it and been injured or killed. It is now watched by two remote TV cameras. At the far end of the grounds we visited a gallery with some newer sculptures including a Paoluzzi and we found a new sculpture made of a mobile office coupled with a mobile toilet and a strange growth on one side which was the alleged bedroom. This was called "mobile home" and clearly intended as a caricature - very amusing. Because of our age we'd travelled to the Museum by car and stopped in Otterlo centre at the supermarket, finding it open and much more important, having good Belgian beer. We bought 48 bottles for our summer stock with great relief.
Sunday 14 June 2015
Badger in 2015 - Preliminary report.
Packing
Packing always takes time and thought. Our elderly B Merc is a little smaller than the previous Ford and we have to fill every crevice, however at least we could expect to have enough room to buy Belgian beer as we did not have to transport the liferaft.
11th May
We broke our journey to to Dover in Sussex to visit Bateman's, Rudyard Kipling's last house. This was simply lovely and we could have moved in instantly except that the furniture was in period, 18th C. Guests are recorded as saying there was not a comfortable chair in the house. The exhibition in the house was fascinating and I was particularly moved by the Lama's pen-case which occurs in Kim but actually happened to Kipling's father.The garden was excellent too and I want to buy the garden chairs used by the NT restaurant.
We stayed the night almost overlooking the Folkstone terminal of the Channel tunnel but mercifully hidden by a cliff. The high quality B&B was nevertheless in deep country with tiny lanes and a very real country pub a short way away. We would never have found it but for the excellent instructions given.
12th May
After a massive breakfast we drove the sort distance to Dover, failed to find sandwiches for the ferry crossing but succeeded in buying Fuel set to deal with diesel bug. The ferry wait was the usual pain but the crossing brought us a sandwich each and beer while watching up and down sea traffic. The short drive to Veurne in Belgium brought us to "The Old House" comfortably. This hotel seemed just a little down at heel and the owner rather more stressed than previously. Something of the same sort seemed to be happening at Oogappel, our favourite restaurant in Veurne so we fear for both establishments.
We stayed an extra night in Veurne to enjoy the market the next morning. As always one is envious of the fruit and vegetables available in continental markets. There is also excellent fish meat and cheese, none of which could we buy.
14th May
Leaving Veurne, as always with regret, we took the motorways to Sint Niklaus to a large mall to buy Belgian beer. The mall was shut - disaster! Eventually a passer-by told us that Belgium was shut; it was Ascenscion Day. I had really boobed.
Inconsolably, we drove on to the Antwerp ring, amazingly busy and to Otterloo in Holland. We were welcomed to Carnegie Cottage hotel. I went off to the only local supermarket to find that shut too. However it was sunny, we had a late lunch at the hotel and relaxed though the minute private garden attached to our room was too cool for comfort.
Packing always takes time and thought. Our elderly B Merc is a little smaller than the previous Ford and we have to fill every crevice, however at least we could expect to have enough room to buy Belgian beer as we did not have to transport the liferaft.
11th May
We broke our journey to to Dover in Sussex to visit Bateman's, Rudyard Kipling's last house. This was simply lovely and we could have moved in instantly except that the furniture was in period, 18th C. Guests are recorded as saying there was not a comfortable chair in the house. The exhibition in the house was fascinating and I was particularly moved by the Lama's pen-case which occurs in Kim but actually happened to Kipling's father.The garden was excellent too and I want to buy the garden chairs used by the NT restaurant.
12th May
After a massive breakfast we drove the sort distance to Dover, failed to find sandwiches for the ferry crossing but succeeded in buying Fuel set to deal with diesel bug. The ferry wait was the usual pain but the crossing brought us a sandwich each and beer while watching up and down sea traffic. The short drive to Veurne in Belgium brought us to "The Old House" comfortably. This hotel seemed just a little down at heel and the owner rather more stressed than previously. Something of the same sort seemed to be happening at Oogappel, our favourite restaurant in Veurne so we fear for both establishments.
We stayed an extra night in Veurne to enjoy the market the next morning. As always one is envious of the fruit and vegetables available in continental markets. There is also excellent fish meat and cheese, none of which could we buy.14th May
Leaving Veurne, as always with regret, we took the motorways to Sint Niklaus to a large mall to buy Belgian beer. The mall was shut - disaster! Eventually a passer-by told us that Belgium was shut; it was Ascenscion Day. I had really boobed.
Inconsolably, we drove on to the Antwerp ring, amazingly busy and to Otterloo in Holland. We were welcomed to Carnegie Cottage hotel. I went off to the only local supermarket to find that shut too. However it was sunny, we had a late lunch at the hotel and relaxed though the minute private garden attached to our room was too cool for comfort.
Rest of the 2014 Season
We made two visits to Broken with the Jones Family. In both cases the journey out was motoring in little or no wind and bright sun. We took picnics of local delicacies, salmon, shrimps, good cheeses and wine.
Unfortunately the harbour was full of brown algae the first time so swimming was impossible.
The algae bloomed in vast amounts in 2014 because of very hot weather in both July and August.
Alec experimented with the sauna while Nick and I watched from outside as his knees glistened with sweat.
Before the second trip wind and waves had disrupted and sunk most of the algae so we all, except Nick swam and cooled off. We also had a good breeze on the way back to Nykoping so Badger showed what she could do. Blowing strongly between islands, the wind was fluky so Badger heeled abruptly once or twice, leaping forward dramatically so Alice and Nick laughed at me for my enthusiasm at Badgers performance.
Both Kristin and I were very glad that part of the family had had the chance to see a little of what makes sailing in Sweden so appealing to us.
For the rest of our time in Sweden we were preparing Badger for the winter, visiting friends and late, staying at Stjarnholm Slott before going south on the way home.
Our trip home took us to Landskrona, which has an interesting star shaped fort and a well funded museum where Kristin bought a kit for embroidering a metre long cushion. After the ferry to Travemunde we stopped at Marburg with good old quarter, Trier with very impressive Roman buildings including a massive Gatehouse and Vianden in Luxemburg where we spent the night in a pub which catered mainly to motorbikers. Apparently Luxemburg windy roads in hilly country without heavy traffic are very appealling.
We then went to Troyes, a very interesting city and then Bourges.
In Bourges we spent much time in the cathedral which imprseed us just as it had done 30 years ago as a superb space. However the Hotel Theatre St.Bonnet outshone all with most rooms with Murano glass chandeliers, an excellent swimming pool in the conservatory and a theatre where we were entertained to two recitals on a concert grand piano by the owner, a retired concert pianist. The second recital was the Goldberg variations which we are passionate about. It was a fantastic experience.
From Bourge we went south to Angouleme to visit Colette, well looked after by her grand-daughter but miserable in herself though she seemed to like our visit.
We also met up with Tim and Lindsey of the Totnes boating Association and had dinner with them.
The Angouleme hotel is worth mentioning as it was a big farmhouse outside the city with swimming pool - lovely to visit but incredibly difficult to find.
Our final day's travel took us to Morlaix which we also love but found a little depressed compared with 12 years ago. It still had a wonderful French eccentricity with a late evening procession past our hotel room with illuminated enormous and fantastical baloons.
Our final day was spent close by, buying a little wine and eating lobsters in Roscoff before the night boat back to Plymouth and home.
Unfortunately the harbour was full of brown algae the first time so swimming was impossible.
The algae bloomed in vast amounts in 2014 because of very hot weather in both July and August.
Alec experimented with the sauna while Nick and I watched from outside as his knees glistened with sweat.
Before the second trip wind and waves had disrupted and sunk most of the algae so we all, except Nick swam and cooled off. We also had a good breeze on the way back to Nykoping so Badger showed what she could do. Blowing strongly between islands, the wind was fluky so Badger heeled abruptly once or twice, leaping forward dramatically so Alice and Nick laughed at me for my enthusiasm at Badgers performance.
Both Kristin and I were very glad that part of the family had had the chance to see a little of what makes sailing in Sweden so appealing to us.
For the rest of our time in Sweden we were preparing Badger for the winter, visiting friends and late, staying at Stjarnholm Slott before going south on the way home.
Our trip home took us to Landskrona, which has an interesting star shaped fort and a well funded museum where Kristin bought a kit for embroidering a metre long cushion. After the ferry to Travemunde we stopped at Marburg with good old quarter, Trier with very impressive Roman buildings including a massive Gatehouse and Vianden in Luxemburg where we spent the night in a pub which catered mainly to motorbikers. Apparently Luxemburg windy roads in hilly country without heavy traffic are very appealling.
We then went to Troyes, a very interesting city and then Bourges.
In Bourges we spent much time in the cathedral which imprseed us just as it had done 30 years ago as a superb space. However the Hotel Theatre St.Bonnet outshone all with most rooms with Murano glass chandeliers, an excellent swimming pool in the conservatory and a theatre where we were entertained to two recitals on a concert grand piano by the owner, a retired concert pianist. The second recital was the Goldberg variations which we are passionate about. It was a fantastic experience.
From Bourge we went south to Angouleme to visit Colette, well looked after by her grand-daughter but miserable in herself though she seemed to like our visit.
We also met up with Tim and Lindsey of the Totnes boating Association and had dinner with them.
The Angouleme hotel is worth mentioning as it was a big farmhouse outside the city with swimming pool - lovely to visit but incredibly difficult to find.
Our final day's travel took us to Morlaix which we also love but found a little depressed compared with 12 years ago. It still had a wonderful French eccentricity with a late evening procession past our hotel room with illuminated enormous and fantastical baloons.
Our final day was spent close by, buying a little wine and eating lobsters in Roscoff before the night boat back to Plymouth and home.
Monday 26 January 2015
July 27th till early August
This was almost the end of our boat travel as we eventually sailed back to Nykoping from Broken; a matter of eight sea miles and started to do a little boat maintenance in the marina while having the advantages of shops ad the car to hand. Obviously ate out from time to time. We did have to visit Martin and Maria's house to ensure it was ready for Nick, Alice, Alec and Jenny who would be arriving in a day or two. We also got in a welcome pack of food for them.
They arrived late in the evening, after a long drive from Ivbridge to Stansted and the flight to Skavsta with an additional delay to book out their hire car. We led them to the house which is not easy to find without a native guide and left them to settle in after arranging for them to join us for a fairly peaceful trip to Broken the next morning.
This was almost the end of our boat travel as we eventually sailed back to Nykoping from Broken; a matter of eight sea miles and started to do a little boat maintenance in the marina while having the advantages of shops ad the car to hand. Obviously ate out from time to time. We did have to visit Martin and Maria's house to ensure it was ready for Nick, Alice, Alec and Jenny who would be arriving in a day or two. We also got in a welcome pack of food for them.
They arrived late in the evening, after a long drive from Ivbridge to Stansted and the flight to Skavsta with an additional delay to book out their hire car. We led them to the house which is not easy to find without a native guide and left them to settle in after arranging for them to join us for a fairly peaceful trip to Broken the next morning.
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